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Gary, if indeed that is a 0b, which I agree it may be, I'd definitely say replace your bank 2 CPS (drivers side). I couldn't tell you off-hand if it was intake or exhaust, but I suggest you listen to how your beast runs both at idle and between 2500-3500 RPMs. If you hear a slightly off and muted yet a little louder exhaust note then its probably your exhaust CPS. You could always play it safe and replace both...
 

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Thanks Guys. The exhaust tone does sound differently so I'll start with that one. I've reset the codes so when it trips next, I'll pay closer attention to if it is a "B" or a "6".

Thanks for your help.
 

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Where did you get E8 = Pedal position sensor? I got E8 and it is evaporative purge control valve check (or something like that) in my manual...

d-
 

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Just got Codes 90, 91 and b3. At the track about 2 weeks ago they had run out of 93 and I filled up 1 and 1/2 times with 100. When I told a tech at the dealership he metioned that my o2's should have gone crazy.
Went back to the track this weekend and used 93 all weekend, car ran great. I have driven it only 20 miles other than back and forth to the track (150 miles total). After the track I drove to DC (3 hours) and back. On the way back, the SES light came on and I got these codes.
Has to have been the gas, I will edit this post after I run it by the dealer and get their input.
I got codes 91 and b3 - did you get any luck on finding out what they are?
Interesting I put a full tank of 98RON in (wouldnt dare put less than 95 in).
 

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Codes

ok..so now I'm getting these codes:

B2 - “Catalyst system efficiency, Cyl #1-4”
E8 - Evaporative emission purge valve functional check

I've been clearing the E8 code as nothing seems wrong. But he B2 code is new.

Anyone have more info on code B2?:confused2
 

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Ok, I'm sure I'll regret asking this question, but I'm tripping code 68. I noticed that there IS no code 68 on the above list of Peake codes. ??????

BTW, it is not a mis-read of code 6A, because I'm also tripping code 6A. Is the letter 'B' displayed in lower case on the Peake reader? I know the letter 'A' is displayed in upper case, so I'm not sure why 'B' would be lower case.

Dave
 

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Hey Dave,
see the second post in this thread ;)

You are indeed seeing code b8.
The problem is with the Peake reader's LCD - there are only 7 distinct lines on the LCD, they have to make the "B" lower case because if they made it upper case it would look like a number 8 and then you would misdiagnose your problem as idle speed controller instead of what it is (passenger side intake CPS).
 

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Thanks Ian.. I knew I'd regret asking, but I appreciate the clarification!
:cheers:
Dave
 

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Don't regret asking, at least you didn't guess a different code!
The reason I wrote that second post and know b8 specifically is because I ran into the same code earlier this year and it took me a couple of readings of the code and going to the peake website before I realized my misreading problem.

I felt even "stupider" because I have a EE degree and should have understood the LCD limitations inherently instead of slapping my forehead days later.
 

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Which Peak Reader?

I checked the Peak website, but they don't have the M5 listed when choosing which reader to purchase. Which model should I get?
 

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it depends on the model year of the car. earlier takes the round connector in the engine bay; latter takes the trapezoidal connector in the driver footwell. a search in can clarify this for you.
 

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I checked the Peak website, but they don't have the M5 listed when choosing which reader to purchase. Which model should I get?
This page should help you decide. If you have a black round connector about 2.5 inches in diameter (with a cap on) right below the windshield washer fluid, then you need the
R5/FCX II. Even if you have a plug above your left knee (in a left-hand drive car), you need the round connector. Ifyou dont have the round connector in the engine bay and only have the connector in the cabin, then get the R5/FCX3-16.
 

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I checked the Peak website, but they don't have the M5 listed when choosing which reader to purchase. Which model should I get?
The Peake reader is a PITA to use. Small which is nice, but extremely limited. Using that list of codes, cross refrencing information. Too many ways to get confused. If you've got a BMW with an OBDII port, get a better reader.

I purchased an Innova 3100 for $100 off Amazon. It reads ALL OBDII vehicles. Showing generic and vehicle specific codes. It gives freeze frame date of vehicle rpm, speed, fuel trim and many other functions. And it displays the trouble code DESCRIPTION on the screen with the code rather than having to look it up on a piece of paper. Plus, you can leave it connected to the vehicle while you're driving and get updated codes every 15 seconds. Very cool. It payed for itself the first time I used it to diagnose and repair some bad ignition coils on my Lexus ES300. Used it on a Saturn, Mercedes CLK, and now the M5.

They have fancier models with backlit screens and more options, but overall the 3100 does 10x more than the peake reader as it is. Peake is a waste of time IMO.
 

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Innova 3100

Thanks for the info - I looked at the Innova, and it seems to be everything you say. My question then is: why do all the BMW forums talk about the Peake as if it were the best, and only, choice?

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 

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Thanks for the info - I looked at the Innova, and it seems to be everything you say. My question then is: why do all the BMW forums talk about the Peake as if it were the best, and only, choice?

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
Anything older than 96 is pre OBDII. At least it wasn't required, so you may or may not have it. In those older vehicles you're stuck with the factory BMW round connectors and the peake is the only option. Such is the case with the old E30's that I've taken a shine to over the years. But even then I wouldn't buy one. There's plenty of knowledge online as to resetting the maintenance lights with a jumper wire. The older cars are more simple to troubleshoot as well. There's a lot of good info on the web about the older bimmers.

So for me, anything with OBDII warrants a much better reader than the peake. I couldn't be more pleased with mine. Now if I could just get my reader to FIX the problem for me as well, then I'd be set and life would be easy!cherrsagai
 

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My understanding is - it was the original code reader for BMW specific cars and the only code reader + the ability to reset Oil Change, Service Interval, Inspection 1, II codes, SES (Service Engine Soon) light, etc.

Is the Innova capable of also resetting service codes? If it can, then I'm buying one ASAP. Thanks.

And I agree, the Peake is a PITA to use. The manual is confusing to use. There has to be a better code reader and a service interval reset tool out there combined in one.

Thanks for the info - I looked at the Innova, and it seems to be everything you say. My question then is: why do all the BMW forums talk about the Peake as if it were the best, and only, choice?

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 

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My understanding is - it was the original code reader for BMW specific cars and the only code reader + the ability to reset Oil Change, Service Interval, Inspection 1, II codes, SES (Service Engine Soon) light, etc.

Is the Innova capable of also resetting service codes? If it can, then I'm buying one ASAP. Thanks.

And I agree, the Peake is a PITA to use. The manual is confusing to use. There has to be a better code reader and a service interval reset tool out there combined in one.

Hmm, not sure about service interval lights. It resets all stored computer codes and data, but it's not clear if that is part of the same program. It's been a while since I've seen a service interval light since using it so I'm not sure. Since my older E30 M3 and 325 don't have OBDII I've just been using the wire jumper method to clear the lights.
 

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Please help interpreting codes

Hello and Happy New Year to all.

Here is the problem.
I was driving down the autobahn, at about 130 mph with a car full of people when I lost loads of power (with my foot full on the gas pedal the car decelerated to below 4k RPM) and the SES light came on.
Luckily it happened at my exit, so I slow down come down the off ramp and stop at the traffic lights. While waiting for the TL to turn green the SES light went out again (it was on less than 2 mins)
The remainder of the drive home (15 -20 miles) was fine. Being new year's day I had to wait till today to take the M5 to the dealers to get the codes read (as I don't have a peake reader)
(Earlier that day I filled up the car with v-power 100ron petrol. I normally use 98 but have used v-power before with no problems. Just adding this info as it was the only different event for the car in a while)
The codes I got were "CB (203)", "51 (081)" and "AA (170)
With my limited German and the technicians limited English the explanation wasn't great of what all the codes meant.
He put a star next to the "AA (170)" and said this was the important one. He pointed to two parts on the engine and said he needed to change them (costing 100 Euro). He couldn't explain what the were in English and I don't know what they are so for the sake of this post I have pointed them out in the attached picture.
Could someone here please help me to understand what went wrong with the car, what the parts are that need to be changed and what other rectification needs to be done.
Thank you all.
Farquy
 

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Thanks chowdah, the tech did mention the parts to be changed had something to do with the oil system.

I did look at the table at the top of this thread but what I don't understand is what would cause a cylinder, no 8 in my case, to misfire and what does MFL interface signal mean and once again what would cause a code?

If my translation is ok then it has something to do with the multi function steering wheel. (multifunktionslenkrad) Maybe as I have recently been trying to put a retrofit bluetooth system in and for the first time the voice recognition button works but this is a wild stab in the dark.

Thanks
farquy
 
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