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Discussion Starter #1
Spent a long time M5 lurking, finally found one that made sense. Have seen lots of info here about key options as well as some conflicting info on the interwebs. Seller only had 1 key left...and that one appears to be dead or not charging. I did find the reprogram feature and tried it...key on engine off...position 2...pull key out within 5 secs, hold the button etc to program....didn't work! Since I need a spare key anyway should just get a new one from the dealer, or is there another option. They do sell blanks thru locksmiths and interwebs at places but it seems unclear as to how much programming is required and how much or little time would be needed with dealer. Also saw conflicting info on the batteries whether rechargeable or not. Can someone please confirm before I cut this fob open....I also saw a post on this board that the program new key feature works if the fuel filler door actuator is working as it should too. Needless to say I need some advice.
 

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My understanding is that you have to go to the dealer. When I got another key I had to do the following:

1) show up with car title
2) Pay anywhere from $160-220 depending on the dealer
3) Wait a day (I read somewhere they have to overnight the key from SC or somewhere)
4) Go back to the dealer so they can do some programming (takes five minutes or so).

Hope this helps.
 

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My understanding is that you have to go to the dealer. When I got another key I had to do the following:

1) show up with car title
2) Pay anywhere from $160-220 depending on the dealer
3) Wait a day (I read somewhere they have to overnight the key from SC or somewhere)
4) Go back to the dealer so they can do some programming (takes five minutes or so).

Hope this helps.
Confirmed - I did this last year. $175 needed title at the dealer and took only a day. I used reprogramming instructions from this site - don't have the link handy though. Just don't lose your new key a month later like I did :).
 

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Needless to say I need some advice.
Dealer can provide the master key with remote access, a valet key which only works the ignition and a plastic emergency key which is a master. A full set of keys are 4; 2 masters, 1 valet and one wallet emergency key.

When you order your new key(s), have the dealer deactivate any keys no longer in your possession.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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As an alternative, you can buy uncut keys from eBay or elsewhere ($30/pair), have them cut at a local locksmith ($30), and use a device called an AK90+ ($60) to add the new key transponders to the existing EWS. It is absolutely more work and a bigger PITA than buying a new key from the dealer and it really doesn't make sense if you just need one key for one car, but it is an alternative to buying from a dealer.

If you need multiple keys for multiple cars, or you own several EWS I/II/III/IV cars, then an investment in an AK90+ can be worth it. I needed 2 keys for my E46 and may eventually need replacement keys for my E39 and my dad's E85 Z4, so the AK90+ investment seemed worth it.

I will say the keyless entry range on the ebay keys is WAAY better than any OE BMW key I've ever had. Aside from that, they look, feel, and function just like OE keys.

Good Luck!
 

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Is it realistic to expect a locksmith to be able to cut the square blade keys? I know of a local autoparts store that claims to be able to reproduce immobilizer keys. All this time, I just assumed that they wouldn't be able to properly cut the blade keys...
 

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Similar position here.
Current key is dying and spare given my PO isn't reinitializing via the steps given.

I took it apart and saw that it wasn't soldered properly. , cleaned it up, resoldered it , gonna wait a few minutes and retry to initialization process. if it fails ill get a new battery and go that route

Questions

"Procedure:
1. Close all doors and have all keys available.
2. Using key number 1, turn the ignition switch to KL R, then switch off within 5 seconds and remove the first key.
3. Within 30 seconds of turning the ignition switch to “off” Press and hold the arrow button.
4. While holding the arrow button, press and release (“tap”) the roundel button three times within 10 seconds.
5. Release both buttons. The GM will immediately lock and unlock the doors signalling a successful initialisation.
6. If additional keys need to be initialised repeat steps 3 - 5 within 30 seconds.
7. Switching the ignition to KL R completes the initialisation."

KL R is position 2 correct? right before turning the engine on
 

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I will say the keyless entry range on the ebay keys is WAAY better than any OE BMW key I've ever had. Aside from that, they look, feel, and function just like OE keys.

Good Luck!
Is this a typo? The eBay keys have BETTER range? If so, that would make this process a no brainer. However, do you need to find a specialized locksmith to cut the square keys like mentioned above?
 

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Nope, no typo. The eBay keys on my E46 work from a considerably greater distance than they do with my E39 (and my previous E46). I wouldn't have guessed that would be the case, but it seems to be the case with both of my eBay keys.

Getting the key cut is the hardest part, not because the cut is particularly difficult but rather because some locksmiths would rather sell you a key of their own (which typically means they order it for you from the BMW dealer). I haven't had an E39 key cut, but in theory at least it should be easier than the E46/E53 since the E39 is cut from the outside rather than the "laser" cut down the middle.

 

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I can't vouch for this particular seller, but somethung like this is what you'd need for the E39. Might be worth verifying that they are the correct 315MHz frequency for the US (as opposed to 433MHz in Europe, etc), but since it's a US-based seller, I assume that it is.

2 Remote Key Entry Keyless Fob Transmitter Chip Beeper Notch Uncut Blade for BMW | eBay

You might check with a local locksmith as I'm certainly not the only idiot who can buy keys from eBay, cut them, and add them to the EWS. You may find a local locksmith who can make it a one-stop shop and save you some money over the dealer. good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks for all your replies, I attempted the reprogram of the single key I have and nothing changed so it absolutely must be a dead battery which won't charge any longer.


I did price the dealer overnight and just went ahead spending the $192.36 as a matter of convenience and warranty for now.


The parts counter guy informed me that each car has only 10 key orders possible....so if the previous owners used them all up...you are out of luck and require rekeying the entire car. He also shared, life expectancy to be 3-5 short years....which is disappointing to say the least.


I would opt for the ebay blanks and locksmith cut if that is the case. In fact when I checked out at the dealer cashier she gave me the number of such a locksmith that does do it but with BMW blanks instead of generics, not that I know which is better. I may go the get blank/locksmith route for a spare key.


It will be nice to use the remote functions as desired for once.


Also if anyone can share any feedback replacing the batteries, wins and failures that would be worth knowing as I am hearing more failures at attempting this. It also seems to sacrifice the key fob which seems counter productive having to cut it in half with a razor blade and glue it back together.
 

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He also shared, life expectancy to be 3-5 short years....which is disappointing to say the least.
If it makes you feel better, I got my 2 master keys from the original owner, who purchased the car in 2001. Both still work fine. I do use the 2nd key on a regular basis to make sure it continues to charge when used.

Regards,
Jerry
 

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If it makes you feel better, I got my 2 master keys from the original owner, who purchased the car in 2001. Both still work fine. I do use the 2nd key on a regular basis to make sure it continues to charge when used.

Regards,
Jerry
Same here - my E39 was originally purchased by the original owner in early 2001 and both keys still work fine. I also make a point to rotate keys every few weeks to keep the batteries from going completely dead.
 

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bought this one from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Keyecu-Remote-Button-SERIES-315MHZ/dp/B010S7EMU8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 came in next day,

Getting the key cut at a locksmith for 20$ later today, but i do'nt have LK9 to program the key.
Does it come in pieces like the pictures show or is it all assembled when you received it?

BTW, I think that's the wrong one for the E39. You need the one with the groove down the middle: http://www.amazon.com/Keyecu-Remote-Button-SERIES-315MHZ/dp/B010S7EMU8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
 

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Does it come in pieces like the pictures show or is it all assembled when you received it?

BTW, I think that's the wrong one for the E39. You need the one with the groove down the middle: Amazon.com: Keyecu Remote Key 3 Button For BMW 3 5 7 SERIES E38 E39 E46 With Chip 315MHZ/433MHZ HU92: Automotive
Came completely assembled.

I'm gonna get it cut today at a locksmith. I also noticed no groove down the middle, worst comes to worst locksmith can't do it and i return it (amazon will take anything back)

Also mine is a 06\2000 build. and the two master keys, one still works, and the other is completely dead, battery, chip, the entirety of it.
I can turn on the car, but everything else is useless (i even replaced battery)
 

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Same here - my E39 was originally purchased by the original owner in early 2001 and both keys still work fine. I also make a point to rotate keys every few weeks to keep the batteries from going completely dead.

Interesting thread. I've had lots of trouble with the FOBs. I bought a replacement from the dealer about 3 years ago...which also crapped out.

I spent WAY too much time replacing the battery, which worked for a while, but also left the key pretty trashed, since you essentially have to cut the plastic body apart in order to change battery.

The INPA software is pretty straightforward to initialize and deactivate keys.

I am intrigued at the prospect of a locksmith cutting the keys?
 

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Came completely assembled.

I'm gonna get it cut today at a locksmith. I also noticed no groove down the middle, worst comes to worst locksmith can't do it and i return it (amazon will take anything back)

Also mine is a 06\2000 build. and the two master keys, one still works, and the other is completely dead, battery, chip, the entirety of it.
I can turn on the car, but everything else is useless (i even replaced battery)
Does it come in pieces like the pictures show or is it all assembled when you received it?

BTW, I think that's the wrong one for the E39. You need the one with the groove down the middle: http://www.amazon.com/Keyecu-Remote-Button-SERIES-315MHZ/dp/B010S7EMU8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

So you were right, couldn't cut it, sent it back for a refund.


Interesting thread. I've had lots of trouble with the FOBs. I bought a replacement from the dealer about 3 years ago...which also crapped out.

I spent WAY too much time replacing the battery, which worked for a while, but also left the key pretty trashed, since you essentially have to cut the plastic body apart in order to change battery.

The INPA software is pretty straightforward to initialize and deactivate keys.

I am intrigued at the prospect of a locksmith cutting the keys?
Locksmith will cut the key if it comes with the divet in the middle and the locking divet a 1\4 inch from the base of the key, mine didn't.

Just gonna order through Dealer, forgot i had a dealer account and could get it for 140$ programmed and everything
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Picked my dealer key up this morning....reprogrammed myself thanks to the info here. Thanks folks!


If I want another one I will call this locksmith the cashier told me about, but for now one dead one live is fine.
 
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