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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i just replaced all my transmission internals. As well as the hydraulic pump. I just got it tuned. (Primary cat delete, rear muffler box delete, carbon filter delete)
So today i take my beast for a ride. The beast ran good. No problems. Shifting was smooth and it ran great.
I get to my pops house and get the red cog notice. I turned the car off and restarted it, but the red cog remained. I tried this 3x. (Started the car and turned it off) i come in to visit w my pops and when i go out to leave, my beast wont start.
Its in neutral.( I parked it in neutral and hit the handbrake) so i know its not in gear. The pump sounds very weak during priming. I just replaced my battery when i did all the transmission work/ hydraulic pump.
I have both INPA and ISTA i believe. I bought a referbished computer with the programs from a guy in the UK.
Does anyone have any clue?? Its Saturday the Indy shop i go to is closed until Monday .
My tune was done by BOB from stagefp. Any help is greatly appreciated. Im down in San Antonio incase other boardembers live close by.
 

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If the pump can pressurize the system to 70-90 bar then with INPA> status>Other see what gear the transmission at currently, if anything other Neutral then the car won't start, In all condition go to activate>Engage gear then put the gear to Neutral and the car will start, pull the codes so we know why the car failed to shift the gear to Neutral when you command it. If the car refuse to shift to Neutral manually go to status> analog 3 and see if the clutch sensor have readings, first two bars on the right hand top, if missing that's a PLCD sensor. Also if the car starts keep an eye on the Analog 3 on the shifting solenoid on the left hand side of the screen they should open and close but if they sticking then you have problem with one of the clutch/shift solenoids.
print screen the fault from INPA so it include other parameters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I will hook up to my beast later . I had to go into my computer settings and make changes and program it so my K+ Dcan and car can properly communicate. Maybe im not reading this right but it shows my hydraulic pressure at 108.5 Bar???
 

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I asked for analog value 3 to see the clutch values, but if only got 4FA0 fault then this means your proplem either hydraulic and this include the clutch/shift solenoids or clutch slave.

For the error message on screen just hit NO the page will turn to blank then just press anu button from the bottom and it will show values again, it is just INPA unstable with the cable but that's ok do what I told you and you can still use the software.

Bleed the clutch and the block several time but first get the car out of gear if it is not in Neutral already, print screen Other tab there you know what gear you are at but either way go to Engage gear tab and put to Neutral then bleed the system.

Did you replace the clutch slave?.
Did you bleed the system?
Did you perform the 3 steps adaptation?

For the pressure, it could be air in the system and or the clutch slave stuck, press the brake several time till the pressure goes down a bit, it is not necessary the relay is stuck.

Use a battery charger when you bleed the system. Set it to 13.5V
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So I recently replaced both throttle bodies. Rod bearings. Vanos,, rear differential. dual clutch, master slave. Plc sensor. Throwout bearing, hydraulic pump, front rear rotors n brakes. Tune up, oil change. I just got the car back after a primary cat delete, carbon filters delete., stage 2 tune.
The car was driving damn good and i drive my car like an M. The shifts were smooth fast. No hints of anykind that the red cog would be coming on.
I checked the hydraulic pressure it guves my a shut off message due to passing 85 bars. I depressurized it cleared tge codes and when i try to crank it. The bar goes to 108.
I had to head back home . I will try your suggestions. If all fails ill have it towed to the indy i go to. ,(Mteknic)
I guess i may as well do my coilovers. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good set, not too hard on the wallet.
Thanks my brothers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello my brothers. So j ended up replacing the master slave cylinder and plc sensor.
I recently got codes on my bank 1. I replaced the spark plugs. Ignition coils. MAF drop in filters. Pre cat 02 sensor now I'm fixing to replace the throttle actuator and TPS.
I'm hoping all this is related to an air leak on Bank 1.
Can anyone help me and LMK what all the Lambda figures should look like. My lambda offset adaptations readings are Bank 1= -8.31
Bank 2= 0.31.
 

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Hello my brothers. So j ended up replacing the master slave cylinder and plc sensor.
I recently got codes on my bank 1. I replaced the spark plugs. Ignition coils. MAF drop in filters. Pre cat 02 sensor now I'm fixing to replace the throttle actuator and TPS.
I'm hoping all this is related to an air leak on Bank 1.
Can anyone help me and LMK what all the Lambda figures should look like. My lambda offset adaptations readings are Bank 1= -8.31
Bank 2= 0.31.
Are you sorted?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not quite. I just replaced my belts and tensioner. I purchased a new thermostat , TPS, MAF, , BnC filters, Throttle body actuator. I. Going to install all these into Bank 1.
I changed all 5 spark plugs, and coils. It ran better but once I got past 5500 RPMs it goes into limp mode. I believe my lambda values ate off.
Several months back Plati mentioned the thermostat. So that's why I'm replacing my thermostat and as for the filters. They were due for replacement. Brother I've done my rod bearings vanos SMG , flywheel. And the list goes on.
I have new sport coilovers going on as soon as I get my beast running 100 %. I also replaced the pre car sensor on Bank one. Could it be adaptations.? I'm hoping I can swap all the above mentioned parts later today. I'm in San Antonio and although I have a garage , I don't have an AC in there. Hopefully it's not so bad today and I can get to it.
Any help is appreciated my brothers.
 

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If you have 2B59 yes it is the t-stat, providing no any coolant or radiator temp sensor faults.

Limp mode after 5500 rpm require fuel pressure test with ISTA, the pump could be at fault or blocked fuel filter cause the fault, either way I recommend replacing both at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I really appreciate it brother. Ill order both parts as it's time for replacing. Tomorrow ill replace the items i mentioned and let you all know how it goes. Ill also order the pump and new filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Brother. So last night I replaced my Bank 1 Throttle body actuator. Plenum showed no signs of improper setting. Whole I had the plenum off. I gave all 10 throttle bodies a good cleaning with throttle body cleaner. I also swapped out the ionic control modules. I have yet to install the new Thermostat. And the TPS for bank one. Later on I'll do some logging on 3rd gear and 4th.adter replacing the TBA ,cleaning the TBs. And swapping the ICMs . She ran a lot better but went into limp mode when I got on it
I'll post 2 error codes data. I recall that my gas tank was low the day i got the first limp mode. As time went on it got worse. It's been 60k miles on the 2 TBA s. So this time I passed up the OEM ones and I got the bank 1 TBA from Mpower motorsports. I just sent 2 old ones in and will be getting another for Bank 2.
So let me post the 2 sets of codes and see if anyone has any direction.
I've ordered a fuel pump and filter. I don't recall ever having replaced either. So I'll do the Thermostat and TPS for bank 1 first. If it don't resolve the issue. I'll do the fuel pump and filter. If this don't resolve it. I'll gave to check my 1 and 2 I jesters since these 2 cylinders keep popping up.
 

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