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Those are the list of all of your modules in the car. You kinda have to know what the abbreviation stands for. The ALBV_BF is passenger side active seat bolster. KLIMA is climate control. That code is for the fogging sensor. Like 80% of cars have that error, just ignore it or buy the new sensor. EGS is the 06 speak for SMG ECU. That’s a common code, I think it only shows because the car is not on so the SMG ECU is not getting communication from the DSC module. There are 2 codes from tge DSC module and then 2 from the Engine Controller (DME).

this is the same as what you would see in ISTA but they make it pretty and graphical like a tree.
 

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DME showing fuel pressure/empty tank codes - you sure there's gas in it? The filter it built in IIRC, so good chance it's clogged up.

DSC complaining about steering angle sensor (common failure); I've got one that I'm trying sell :)
 

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I thought the encoder wheel issue thing was a SZL code? I get the 520A code occasionally on my 08 SMG when I scan in the accessory position but when it is on it always goes away...
 

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2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
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nice to see the progress! I would recommend getting an AGM H8 or H9 battery, Brand is not that important as there are only 2-3 manufactures who just rebrand their products for other stores. The Walmart H8 AGM is actually a Johnson Controls battery that is also sold at numerous auto parts stores and is only $169. I opted for an H9 and the additional CCA. It fits perfectly once you remove the foam blocker and can be registered to the car. I think i payed $200 for it and its got a very nice made in Germany sticker, so i got that going for me, which is nice:)
Autozone also has a nice AGM battery at that price, just throwing that out as another option. Also has made in Germany sticker on it. didn't check to see who the manufacturer was. Put one in my E60 last spring.
 

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Pepboys usually has some special on a bosch H8 AGM. Best deal I've found.

About 520A just scanning the car with ista sets that code. Every time. ISTA ignores it but INPA shows it.
 

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Discussion Starter #106
DME showing fuel pressure/empty tank codes - you sure there's gas in it? The filter it built in IIRC, so good chance it's clogged up.

DSC complaining about steering angle sensor (common failure); I've got one that I'm trying sell :)
I know for a fact the fuel tank isn’t empty. I’ve added 7 gallons to fresh shell 93 to the tank after fitting the new fuel filter/sending unit. And the car has a new fuel pump that came with the car that I installed once I got the new filter. And a new fuel pressure sensor I put on last week. Only thing not changed is the charcoal canister. And it has the original fuel tank.
 

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Both fuel codes could be related, what is the idle fuel pressure should be 2.9-3.1 bar.
For the steering angle sensor try to recalibrate it, it may solve it.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
For DSC, worn out brake pads or pads worn out indication wiring missing signal or bad wires.
Should have mentioned the brakes need replacing. All the way around unfortunately. Just another thing to replace but it’s something I do all every vehicle before driving. I service the entire brake system. New rotors and pads to come. Anyone run not OEM pads. Looking for recommendations for pads. I’ll be going with OE rotors. I’ll check into the fuel pressure. But I can’t tell you idle cause I can’t get it to run. Do you know the values for starting pressure??
 

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Discussion Starter #111
@platii Noted on the pressure, I'll check it when I get home. Just have to translate and navigate through the menus. Update on the car not running is a mystery. Just bought two used ionic modules for $120 hoping at least one works. Going to swap it around for the bank that is not firing. Then hopefully have an extra good unit. New ignition coils are coming because mine are all tore up from the previous owner. No injectors are stuck open so I'll wait on those a bit and the spark plugs are fairly new from what they look like. I'm wondering if I need to reset adaptations considering the car sat for over a year. Maybe check the O2 sensors but I'm getting no faults there so I might leave them. I ordered a Throttle Actuator Gear Rebuild kit cause the price was right. I'm getting a new battery. I had a H8 battery from another car I flipped that was reading good an was kept on a float charge but with all the draw I'm only seeing just over 9.8-10.4 Volts while cranking and 12.1-12.4 while resting with the key out. After 3 cranks I can hear the difference in the starter. It sounds like its dying. I figured that out by watching a few videos of the S85 cranking over and mine sounds like its on its last leg battery wise. Not to mention if I crank it over more than one time for 5 seconds I start picking up faults that are totally voltage induced from a low voltage condition. Walmart has the Everstart batteries for $120 right now with $15 off for a core return. I'll probably check from corrosion on the way up to the motor wherever the landed connections are too. Its getting cool at night up here mid-30s - low 40s.
 

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I mentioned before that low voltage may cause a crank but no start condition. Walmart also has Mobil 1 0W-40 for like $22-25 for A 5 quart jug. Can’t beat that price either unless you go with the 12qt oil in a box they now have.

you can even jump start to rule out voltage and Battery capacity issues. You may have a dead/bad fuel pump, That’s the passenger side module in the tank, you can use your custom tool again. Probably the only way to test is to manually command the fuel pump and view pressure in ISTA (I don’t know if you can do it in INPA). It’s pretty easy to replace, but again remove the float arm before trying to pull it out of the tank. The sundial is easy to damage and it could have been some one else messed with it before you got it. You can see each side’s fuel level read out in ISTA.
 

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Textar makes the OE pass, they generate a lot of brake dust though, like too much. I may move to Akebono since I know they have a low dust formulation.
 

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Akebono's are great pads, but i don't think they make them for the fronts, if they do, please post the PN.
 

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LOL, just realized how we got to discussing brakes.
yinblake, I replaced my relatively new OE pads with ceramic back in march. They don't have quite as much grip but they are still pretty good. Anyway, the OE pads probably have about 1K on them? If you want them, just pay the shipping and their yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #116
@gmtegear

Man, I thank you for all advice given so far. You have been a wealth of knowledge and its people like yourself that makes ownership of one of these less stressful honestly. I have been thinking about replacing the fuel pump with a brand new unit. I already had it out once to check all connections when I was having trouble with the filter. It wouldn't take me 10 minutes to swap in a new unit. I see ECS has a brand new OEM Bosch unit for $239.

The battery is getting changed for peace of mind. The wife left her New Beetle at the house Saturday and I was able to get a jump off that car while it was running so I knew I had a solid 13.6-13.8 volts while it was idling... I just replaced the battery and alternator when I bought it 2 months ago.. Sight unseen auction. Mint car with 72k miles and a 5 speed.. Needed a cam sensor.. That car being awesome is the reason the wife released the chain and let me buy this car.. LOL

Anyway.. Even with 13VDC the car would crank and crank and crank. No change what so ever except the smell of fuel. Popped the intakes off and looked down the throttle bodies and small amounts of unburned fuel was in every one.

As stated before there was an extra fuel pump in the trunk I dropped in the week I got the car. A Bosch unit, even still had the blue marker on it from quality checks... I figured it was relatively new but I'm starting to wonder if its faulty. I got to the screen you're talking about in INPA regarding the fuel levels per float... I can remember seeing 25L on the driver side float.. and 0L on the passenger side.. the side of the fuel pump. You think that's cause for concern and maybe could solve one of the fault codes I have pertaining to the fuel tank being empty when its not?
 

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The fuel tank system is kinda weird. There is a transfer pump that sucks fuel out of the driver side and moves it to the passenger side. Then there is a second stage pump so under max fuel consumption there is sufficient flow and pressure to prevent a lean out condition. I have a complete fuel system from my ‘10 I stripped down. Unfortunately you often need a 2nd parts car to fix one. I have used my extra tank as a extended fuel storage tank. I also have the pig tails so I can manually command the pump to transfer the fuel out. I think EKP looks at the level on each side then turns on the right combo of pumps. I haven’t spent much time going into detail of why and I have no plan on hooking up the EKP which is how all the pumps are controlled, but just applying 12v to the connectors does empty the driver side out, then leaving fuel on the Passenger side. Just Don’t expect that the fuel levels should be equal on both sides.
 

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@gmtegear

Man, I thank you for all advice given so far. You have been a wealth of knowledge and its people like yourself that makes ownership of one of these less stressful honestly. I have been thinking about replacing the fuel pump with a brand new unit. I already had it out once to check all connections when I was having trouble with the filter. It wouldn't take me 10 minutes to swap in a new unit. I see ECS has a brand new OEM Bosch unit for $239.

The battery is getting changed for peace of mind. The wife left her New Beetle at the house Saturday and I was able to get a jump off that car while it was running so I knew I had a solid 13.6-13.8 volts while it was idling... I just replaced the battery and alternator when I bought it 2 months ago.. Sight unseen auction. Mint car with 72k miles and a 5 speed.. Needed a cam sensor.. That car being awesome is the reason the wife released the chain and let me buy this car.. LOL

Anyway.. Even with 13VDC the car would crank and crank and crank. No change what so ever except the smell of fuel. Popped the intakes off and looked down the throttle bodies and small amounts of unburned fuel was in every one.

As stated before there was an extra fuel pump in the trunk I dropped in the week I got the car. A Bosch unit, even still had the blue marker on it from quality checks... I figured it was relatively new but I'm starting to wonder if its faulty. I got to the screen you're talking about in INPA regarding the fuel levels per float... I can remember seeing 25L on the driver side float.. and 0L on the passenger side.. the side of the fuel pump. You think that's cause for concern and maybe could solve one of the fault codes I have pertaining to the fuel tank being empty when its not?
You did say the car ran in your first post. So could be a bad bump. Two different cars but had similar problems with a 2004 R32. Ended up being a faulty pump. Car would start but would die the moment you gave it gas. Other days it would crank and crank but no start. Checked the fuel lines at the rail and the feed was dry as hell...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Everytime I try to open a module. Or system on the car. I get this
944487


can someone point me towards the right forum to be on to help this issue??
 
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