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Discussion Starter #82
Wooo what a week guys. The twins are turning two next Friday and it’s all hands on deck so I’m moving slow. Waiting for a fuel pressure sensor to come in next Monday. But before continuing I wanted to check any leaky injectors. I should have taken pictures I swear the are original. I pulled both rails laid out some paper towels to see any fuel leakage. Peaked through the hood and turn the car to the on position so the fuel pump would kick on. I could watch the rails jump from the change in pressure but Not a single one leaked and all the O-rings seal. But have seen better days. @gmtegear I am completely leaning on the ionic modules. There’s nothing I’m seeing saying I shouldn’t be firing.. I may try used units first.... I found a pair on eBay for $150 so what’s the chance they both are shot. If not I’ll sack up and buy a new one. Maybe both. I got the car so cheap I might as well do all the maintenance needed to have some trouble free miles considering the weather is talking snow up here in less than 3 weeks so I won’t be driving the car until March - April probably at least... thoughts? I ordered throttle actuator gears to save that trouble. It’s not throwing codes but I know my luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
@gmtegear i was wondering about battery voltage. I got a middle of the road battery that was the right dimensions. I’m very into car audio and understand how important voltage is for clean signals on electrical. I love my XS power batteries I have for all my other vehicles. Maybe I’ll get a nicer battery that I know is consistent.
 

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nice to see the progress! I would recommend getting an AGM H8 or H9 battery, Brand is not that important as there are only 2-3 manufactures who just rebrand their products for other stores. The Walmart H8 AGM is actually a Johnson Controls battery that is also sold at numerous auto parts stores and is only $169. I opted for an H9 and the additional CCA. It fits perfectly once you remove the foam blocker and can be registered to the car. I think i payed $200 for it and its got a very nice made in Germany sticker, so i got that going for me, which is nice:)
 

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4. Anyone that can afford upkeep of an m5 can afford something more appropriate and satisfying to drive in the winter
Absolutely nothing like cruising on US-131 between Grand Traverse and Grand Rapids in -10F weather. Its pretty satisfying. If it snows, well thats why you buy Nokians or Blizzaks.
 

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Yeah you likely don’t have an injector leak. You’d know once you pull the tree and key is on. Did you play switch a roo with the ionic module? They are also grounded right to the cover and there is a ground jumper to connect the cover to the head since the gasket is an isolator. Make sure those ground jumpers are there.

I thought you put 10w60 in the car, I leave 0w40 in it since I fire it up every week and wait for the snow to run some circles sideways. Really important to have a low viscosity oil to improve flow at cold start. A lot of ppl don’t believe that here but to each, his own.

I was in to car audio back when soundoffs were big but I was in HS. With electrical on this car, the voltage regulator goes bad on these alternators. It’s a built in module very easy to know if it’s gone bad since you’ll get a voltage beyond 15v. I think the nominal is 14.1-14.5v like every other alternator out there. Just check with your DMM. The car runs on the alternator, the battery is just really for starting. Noise is not a big issue on the E60 since the preamp signals are all digital via fiber optic. As you know charging a battery above 15v will kill it quickly and other modules don’t like the high voltage either. The VR issue is discussed here quite a bit. A new alternator from Valeo (OE) is only 200 some, I went with that when I did rod bearings since the subframe is out and belts are off, it’s an extra 15 min max, hardest part is prying it off from the block since it’s got a compression but on the mount.

I also recommend the standard lead acid Walmart H8 simply due to cost. Up to you if you get the AGM version, the benefit isn’t big enough for me. The Walmart batteries are either made by East Penn or JCI. It depends which store location/region. The BMW batteries at the stealer are made by East Penn. I have the sell sheet that talks about that. Optimas suck. Stay away. The biggest thing is a maintenance charger since the parasitic load is an issue. Comfort access can keep the car awake also. The low voltage plus the cold will sulfate the battery quickly.

For the coils you can back probe one of the wires on each coil to see if the field is collapsing properly. Better yet if you have an inductive pickup and an oscope. I think ISTA has some built in routines too you can view.

also you should know that the wiring and convolute wire loom self destructs (made in Germany by Schlemmer) truly garbage. I have a few posts with pics where I rant about this. Engine fires will take out some more of these cars as the insulation breaks down even more. I re-did my engine wire harness this March. It’s a good winter project.
 

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Second the point on a trickle charger, it will add years to the life of the battery and help police any parasitic drain issues. The only issue with a lead acid battery is that the car was originally registered for AGM and the charging profile may not be optimum if its replaced with something else. Unless of course you register the battery as lead acid. I read lots of posts that talk about the sensitivity our cars have to the proper battery due to the complexity of the onboard electronics. For me, having the correct battery eliminated this as a possible source of issues.
 

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Speaking of battery and charging system, if we have IBS or BSD fault codes we need classify them as top priority before getting deeper in troubleshooting other issues, as in the E60 series they can have an effect to other system, for example can raise engine RPM or shut down DME and the car will not start. The more we understand our cars the more will be easier to mantain.
 

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There’s a lot more knowledge on the other BMW boards on electrical issues since there very little unique to the M5 aside from the load test on the battery vis a vis the SMG motor. there are a whole host of issues that prevent the car going to sleep, so the current draw remains higher than it should. It’s not simply reading fault codes, real technicians have to know how to independently test and isolate things. It seems few ppl do much to really track that down unless there are major issues. That’s why these things eat batteries- parasites. Maintenance charger will offset that drain.

The car itself could careless about the battery chemistry and state of charge, the modules all just wants to see semi clean DC voltage in the mid 13 range. There is no Bavarian elf labeling electrons based off of battery chemistry. It’s the IBS and DME which try to maintain a model of the battery and so it models temp, age, and voltage. The battery is wired in parallel to the alternator, there is no way to charge the battery at a lower rate, it’s the load that determines the current draw, which simply draws down the voltage as the current demand is increased. I believe that’s why the VR eats sh*t, it’s on a high duty cycle.

Battery chemistry has more to do with how heavily the battery is cycled to a discharge state and ability to deliver a lot of current quickly or a lower amount but over a longer duration. That’s why for car audio situations AGM and capacitor are a great solve to address long operation with no alternator running and huge quick current draws via bass notes. I have no qualms running a Walmart H8 standard lead acid. It’s half the price of a AGM from the other parts stores. Some Walmarts also have the H8 in AGM.
 

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"There is no Bavarian elf labeling electrons based off of battery chemistry. "

Oh, stop. You don't know that.
There SO could be!
 

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Discussion Starter #94
I thought you put 10w60 in the car, I leave 0w40 in it since I fire it up every week and wait for the snow to run some circles sideways. Really important to have a low viscosity oil to improve flow at cold start. A lot of ppl don’t believe that here but to each, his own.
I do not plan on driving the car in the winter but a start or two once a month doesn't sound bad either. Too bad I wont be doing any slides given the fact that the tires that are on it aren't bald but I wouldn't trust them to get me up the 1 inch lip into my garage.

For the coils you can back probe one of the wires on each coil to see if the field is collapsing properly. Better yet if you have an inductive pickup and an oscope.
I have an oscope from college when they were upgrading the units. Never needed it but good to have it type thing. You just might have given me a use for it.

Absolutely nothing like cruising on US-131 between Grand Traverse and Grand Rapids in -10F weather. Its pretty satisfying. If it snows, well thats why you buy Nokians or Blizzaks.
I say I hate winter but its nothing like driving through a snow storm, can't see over the hood of the car in your winter beater. Sliding around everywhere you go. I have six cars and two bikes and none of it compares to my $400 winter beater in 6-8 inches of lake affect.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
@gmtegear I removed the ground straps and cleaned up the termination points, and the terminals. I plan on swapping them tonight or tomorrow night. We'll see if a beer hits my lips before I get to the garage works been killer lately. (Saying that as I sit in my office listening to music) I read to many fuel injector failure threads and I had to check everything out for peace of mind, it was stressing me out.
 

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I do not plan on driving the car in the winter but a start or two once a month doesn't sound bad either.
the issue with this is that your bearings won’t have any lubrication at cold start since you’re starting it so infrequently. There will be little to no oil film and until the oil pressure is high enough and actually flowing to the bearings, you’ll be running metal on metal. That’s the worst case scenario. Your crank is essential going to become a lathe, and yes your bearings should be the surfaces that wear. I’d drain the 10w-60 out and put it in a 5 gal bucket and save it for the spring time and fill the engine with 0w-40 or even 0w-30. That’s how I’d winterize it. 0w will also sling around better and coat the other surfaces to prevent rust that forms as the water vapor in the air will condense on the cold steel surfaces. That’s why I start and run the engine every week and let it get hot to boil off the water that’s in the oil. Some people think it’s over kill but I do everything for a reason. No way to prevent that other than parking it in the AZ desert.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Where are you up dere in MI? Just got back from a trip to Boyne City.
Beautiful area up there right? My mothers side is from up that way. I live in Muskegon, MI. 3/4 mile off Lake Michigan. I've always got the best of all seasons where I live. 85-90 in the Summer. Lowest I've seen in the winter was -15-20 with -40+ wind chill. We get it super cold cause of strong winter winds off the lake.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
944378

944379

some one give me some direction on these codes. Still don’t have a full working version of ISTA but INPA is pulling these codes.
Thanks in advance guys.
 
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