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The plugs don't look bad, the coils seems some have been changed by looking at the color of the collar but this not always the cause. For me it is preference choice . My suggestion, as long as you started the removal and you have the spares ready, bought a 15 year or so car, to eliminate any cause for the misfiring issue " I don't think it is the case here as you have 5 cylinder in a row misfiring ", the fact that M POWER high performance engines react positively with noticeable power gain with new spark plugs, coils, injectors, fuel pump filter and regulator and this will also create a reference line for future maintenance and troubleshooting just replace them and put them a side for any future use. This is what I am doing with my new purchase S85, all these parts already on my list and some arrived but not yet ready to start on tackling the engine check and performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
@platii Being in industry has taught me a lot. Especially being on the floor and seeing breakdown causes and why things fail prematurely. If I've learned anything, its if you have the ability, money, and time to get at everything while you're there. It is in your best interest to do so. Spark plugs were already ordered before I checked these. Ignition coils were just bought 20 minutes ago. All 10 too, no need to jump around coils. I'd rather just do them all. Start fresh I personally sleep better at night knowing everything was new on this date, I used these parts and I got these results. Its just the way I do things.
 

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Guess I’ll clean and regap them. The coils don’t look to be in back shape either. Shame the hold down clips were broken. The seal got back shipped and won’t be here until today now so I’ll have more once I get everything back together tonight.
These are “easy enough” to address later. I’d do a compression test if you have the gauge and use a borescope to take a peek at the cylinder bores. Given you understand well the importance of PM. You actually can buy separately the toilet seat covers. They do break but you want to save the old ones since they come in handy to replace future broken ones. You likely have figured out that using the hole is the proper way to pull them out since that gives a direct line of force along axis. I have other tips but there are plenty of threads that discuss this. Since you are also a toolmaker, I have also thought about machining my own special pulled out of Al, but I’ve never had that though of a time removing baked in coils. I was thinking of a 2piece design that clamps over the head using the lugs that allows for pulling AND rotation. It would be small enough to allow for access (unlike vice grips)

I guess if I had access to the machine shop at work I’d have built one since it can be useful instead of vice grips, which really don’t work well especially on the ones closest to the firewall. Most ppl with these cars don’t do their own work anyways so I’ve never bothered to build a special tool.
 

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2009 BMW E63 M6, Sapphire Black
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mmm, pulling coils near and dear to my heart. about to undertake replacing spark plugs in a week or so when I replace injectors. are the coils any harder to pull than a typical BMW V8? I didn't have too much trouble with my N62, they were snug, but nothing to write home about.
 

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Not that hard unless it’s high mileage and never had them pulled or prior mechanic oiled or greased the boots. You could have some trouble. But in general it’s pull and some slight twisting back and forth, when you twist do it holding the base, not the toilet seat.
 

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Not that hard unless it’s high mileage and never had them pulled or prior mechanic oiled or greased the boots. You could have some trouble. But in general it’s pull and some slight twisting back and forth, when you twist do it holding the base, not the toilet seat.
When I ordered new coils for my N62, about half of them had white powder on them, talc or something. what was so strange, is half did not have it. what is that all about?
 

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Discussion Starter #68
@gmtegear My work just 4 months ago bought a CNC mill for no reason. Our toolmakers have been playing around with it and making whatever anyone needs since it got dropped in there shop down the road (our complex is quite large) If I ever need a special tool all I have to do is write the code for the CNC and provide materials and bits. A nice little setup for the guys who do work at home. I'll do a compression test later today and borrow my fathers borescope too take a look at the cylinder walls after family pictures the tree colors are crazy up north here right now and the wife wants to hop on it.
 

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If you are in the Michigan area, you should talk to Troy Jeup, find him on Instagram. Ive had my engine replaced through him. Dump the 10w-60 and put 5w-50 in it. Change thermostat to a 203 degree especially if you live in the snow belt, your valvetrain will thank you, replace the fuel cap, and get ISTA running so you can do SMG and Vanos bleeding. Replace the SMG Pentosin fluid, diff fluid, and gear fluid.
 

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I’m jealous. Is it a Haas or something more exotic? I’d say it’s a good investment actually especially if you have to reverse engineer and reproduce old parts from obsolete machinery. I still like using the Bridgeport and conventional lathe. I’ve done a bunch of CNC programming on a Haas and digital work on Mastercam and Solidworks for my own design work and hobby, I’ve used NX too but it’s pretty sophisticated and a bit overkill but it’s totally interstates with any Siemens control CNC, so you can go from digital design, generate G code, simulate to prevent crashes, then make chips.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
If you are in the Michigan area, you should talk to Troy Jeup, find him on Instagram. Ive had my engine replaced through him. Dump the 10w-60 and put 5w-50 in it. Change thermostat to a 203 degree especially if you live in the snow belt, your valvetrain will thank you, replace the fuel cap, and get ISTA running so you can do SMG and Vanos bleeding. Replace the SMG Pentosin fluid, diff fluid, and gear fluid.
He lives less than an hour from me.. getting ahold of him is a different story.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
@gmtegear We have a Hurco VMX42HSRTi (had to take the golf cart across the street to get the model number for those who care) The 5-axis is amazing and being able to see what the machine is going to do before you run it on the screen right next to you is a HUGE plus. We've had to reverse engineer quite a few parts but since my company tries to keep everything in house for products we all have to be able to run that CNC. Back to M stuff ... Anyone have any recommendations for Diff. oil?
 

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As you read here Troy is hard to track down...

Hurco’s are nice for conversational programming and a very stout machine. Nice that you bought made in USA. 5 axis is big money!! The issue is you kinda need an associates degree to do 5 axis well (not crash the machine).

I’ve done some 4/5 axis stuff on a DMG, I really don’t see it being efficient to program the thing at the machine. Obviously everyone should know to set up the part and zero out tools, and move the head around. Do the design stuff and tool pathing in mastercam. It has the machine definitions too so you can simulate it all in the software. Time to machine your own engine block.

I use the Castrol syntrax. It’s basically the OE fluid in a non BMW bottle.
 

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I use the Castrol syntrax. It’s basically the OE fluid in a non BMW bottle.
Does it have FM in it, or do you add any? My diff is quite noisy at low speed tight rights, trying to decide whether to pay an arm and a leg for OE fluid with their "special fm" or just do the castrol.
 

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Yes it has the FM. I wouldn’t worry so much about the grunt it just is the clutch pack doing it’s job since the out wheel is traveling farther and faster than the inner. Eliminating the noise just makes the lock up less which is less traction out of corners. But most owners will never care about track performance so you could just leave it w/o FM. I have put non FM fluid in my track M5.
 

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Also i bought mine in EU a while back, castrol foesnt sell all the same stuff over here, and I think that’s one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Update: Ran a compression test on all 10 cylinders and got an average of 3 tests across each cylinder.
Cylinder 1: 119 PSI
Cylinder 2: 121 PSI
Cylinder 3: 119 PSI
Cylinder 4: 123 PSI
Cylinder 5: 121 PSI
Cylinder 6: 124 PSI
Cylinder 7: 122 PSI
Cylinder 8: 120 PSI
Cylinder 9: 119 PSI
Cylinder 10: 123 PSI
I’m sure these could potentially be a bit higher but I’m sure a bit of excess fuel was on the cylinder walls. I put a bit of oil but I’m sure you all know it could be marginal help. I’m just glad all the cylinder compression readings were all within +/- 10%...

Got everything back together and got all the original fault codes cleared on INPA. The car wants to start. It turned over for 5 seconds each time, sputtered on the 3rd try and ran for 5 seconds before dying. Turned it on again. Same thing. Ran for 5 seconds and died. These are the codes that were brought up. I pulled the intelligent battery sensor when I first got the car cause I couldn’t register the battery.
944112
 

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The voltage level on SMGs cars are abit sensitive. I had similar crank but no start issue and it was simply due to voltage, I think it was like 11.8v. It was odd to me since there was voltage to crank, but apparently not at a level to inject fuel, so it’s a computer thing. I think I already mentioned these things have high parasitic drain so don’t assume a car with a new battery sitting for a week will start.

those compression numbers are fine, so you can rule out valve seating issues as the cause of any misfires.
 

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1- Good numbers on the compression test, congratulation.
2- Fuel/pressure issues, have you fixed the pressure issue that was previously mentioned?
3- Camshafts position error (ALL??). wiring connected?/
4- DME complaining about the IBS. work on that.
5- SMG power issue. get to the SMG analogue value status pages check the main power supply 12V and the internal power signal 2 channels 5V displayed.
 

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Does it have FM in it, or do you add any? My diff is quite noisy at low speed tight rights, trying to decide whether to pay an arm and a leg for OE fluid with their "special fm" or just do the castrol.
If it helps, i tried this Lucus Oil Synthetic SAE 75W-140 Gear Oil

and still have the noise when cold. after warm up it goes away. was thinking of trying castrol syntrax next. since it is not a daily driver, I always either let the engine oil warm up to operating temp, or keep it under 2K rpm until it does get there on slow drive in the neighborhood and that is when I notice it the most.

what is "FM" ??

Happy to hear the good compression numbers! ( I hear a lot of Michiganders were disappointed upon hearing the failed Klingon Barbie kidnapping )
 
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