[SunglassesGuy]

i recently (few months ago) bought a set of ‘bmw’ ignition coils from ecs. They aren’t made by bremi now. They were branded ‘pulse powertrain’

Where did you buy them, don't see them at ECS?

 

[yinblake]

@SunglassesGuy I think he's referring to the kits they sell. The BMW kit for $1300 or the ECS assembled one for $750.. Which really brings my point to light. I'm fine with the $1300 since its the proven coil choice.. but what are the chances of me getting the $750 kit with new spark plugs too and maybe having one dud or two. That $450 price difference could go towards plenty of other wear items on the car like a front set of Zimmerman rotors.. But I rest my case. I'd just rather have a running vehicle than chance the dud or crap ignition coils with all the variance of stories good and bad I'll just be going BMW OEM for the spring.

 

[cold m3]

Or buy them at $25 a piece off ebay... lol. And amazon sells NGK spark plugs for $10ea. So in total you would be at like $350 for all 10 of both spark/coil. (Also always keep your old coils as spares regardless what brand you go with)

 

[platii]

Or buy them at $25 a piece off ebay

Those are not S85 Coils.

 

[cold m3]

Those are not S85 Coils.

Sh*t then I don't know how I just drove today maybe my engine turned into a pile of goo. Lol

 

[platii]

Post an Ebay link please, what is the part number for the coils you have.

 

[cold m3]

Searching the bmw part number on ebay (12137841556) a bunch of overseas sellers listing them for the S85. Of course its unbranded non-oe part but for a wear item like these are works prefect for me.

Looks like you can even get a better deal than I got. At $17 a piece:

Set of 10 OEM quality Ignition Coil for 2006-2010 BMW M5 M6 5.0L V10 E60 E63 E64 | eBay

2010 BMW M6 Base Convertible 2-Door 5.0L 4999CC V10 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated. 2010 BMW M6 Base Coupe 2-Door 5.0L 4999CC V10 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated. 2009 BMW M6 Base Convertible 2-Door 5.0L 4999CC V10 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated.

www.ebay.com

 

[platii]

Thank You for the link, I know about those, you are the second on the forum who tested them, they seem working fine. In the beginning I thought you meant a branded coil for the S85 sold for 25$.

 

[Emfiver]

Where did you buy them, don't see them at ECS?

Yeah it’s weird. Ecs only list the bmw coils in their kit.

What I did was click on the kit. Scroll down and it lists what’s in the kit. Click the part number for the bmw s85 coils which takes you to an unlisted/unindexed page where you can buy them.

But yeah I bought the bmw ones from ecs too.

 

[Emfiver]

Where did you buy them, don't see them at ECS?

Here’s the link. I just tried to find it again but couldn’t. But went back to my old orders and got it. It’s weird.

Ignition Coil - Priced Each

Regular ignition coil replacements prevent misfires and preserve fuel economy and check engine lights

www.ecstuning.com

 

[Emfiver]

Those cheap eBay ones actually look fairly good in the pics (assuming what you get matches the pics in the ad). It couldn’t hurt to buy a couple to try. They are nearly 1/10th the price of genuine.

 

[mrbattals]

@SunglassesGuy I think he's referring to the kits they sell. The BMW kit for $1300 or the ECS assembled one for $750.. Which really brings my point to light. I'm fine with the $1300 since its the proven coil choice.. but what are the chances of me getting the $750 kit with new spark plugs too and maybe having one dud or two. That $450 price difference could go towards plenty of other wear items on the car like a front set of Zimmerman rotors.. But I rest my case. I'd just rather have a running vehicle than chance the dud or crap ignition coils with all the variance of stories good and bad I'll just be going BMW OEM for the spring.

What was the issue with fuel system?

I have same issue. Left side (fuel filter side) has all the fuel. Right tank is empty. If I put some gas manuelly in the fuel pump side, my car starts without issue but it die after few miles. Because fuel pump pushing all the gas through filter driver side tank but fuel filter is not pumping back to fuel pump side. Both brand new pump and filter/sending unit.

 

[platii]

What was the issue with fuel system?

You have a leak inside the tank, that's why fuel is not being transferred to the pump side.
You either kinked the line while passing pulling the lines from the passenger side to the driver side during installation, or one of the connection after passing pulling the lines at the filter side is not properly connected and it leaks fuel.
Read the thread carefully and pay attention to these posts, the answer is there for this case, posts# 172,181,182,196,206.
The best way to pass the lines is tie a rope around the connection before pulling the lines during removal and tie the same rope to the new connections so they don't get tangled and pull the rope and lines carefully to the filter side again.

 

[yinblake]

What was the issue with fuel system?

I have same issue. Left side (fuel filter side) has all the fuel. Right tank is empty. If I put some gas manuelly in the fuel pump side, my car starts without issue but it die after few miles. Because fuel pump pushing all the gas through filter driver side tank but fuel filter is not pumping back to fuel pump side. Both brand new pump and filter/sending unit.

Follow what @platii says, I used a ratchet strap to pull the lines through, I pulled my system 3 times because of a loose connection or leaky fitting. What was the icing on the cake for me to get a new unit was a pinched line preventing proper fuel flow. Once the line was fixed and I gave adequate time for the fuel pump to prime by turning the ignition on and off without turning the car on about 5 times for 30 seconds a piece.. What is your mileage?

 

[mrbattals]

Follow what @platii says, I used a ratchet strap to pull the lines through, I pulled my system 3 times because of a loose connection or leaky fitting. What was the icing on the cake for me to get a new unit was a pinched line preventing proper fuel flow. Once the line was fixed and I gave adequate time for the fuel pump to prime by turning the ignition on and off without turning the car on about 5 times for 30 seconds a piece.. What is your mileage?

Apprecaited for help. My car has 240000 miles and its a 525i

 

[mrbattals]

You have a leak inside the tank, that's why fuel is not being transferred to the pump side.
You either kinked the line while passing pulling the lines from the passenger side to the driver side during installation, or one of the connection after passing pulling the lines at the filter side is not properly connected and it leaks fuel.
Read the thread carefully and pay attention to these posts, the answer is there for this case, posts# 172,181,182,196,206.
The best way to pass the lines is tie a rope around the connection before pulling the lines during removal and tie the same rope to the new connections so they don't get tangled and pull the rope and lines carefully to the filter side again.

God bless you. I will take fuel pump and filter out and see whats going on. I hope I will success.

By the way I have these codes. Two of them are about mixture. 3rd gas cap warning. 4th about DME. Trying to figure out what do them mean.

 

[platii]

@mrbattals
This is M5 forum, many things doesn't apply to your car, if you post in the 525 forum you may get better information related to your specific codes.
I think the fuel tank and pumps principle is similar.
First fix the fuel problem delete the codes and test again.
Tank cap fault, code be blocked carbon canister (you can apply air to the inlet to clear it) or bad tank vent valve.
Mixture faults most likely caused by blocked air filter, bad or dirty MAF or wiring, air/vacuum leaks, blocked injectors, bad spark plugs, oxygen sensor or cat, many things, this require knowing full history of the engine and multiple testing to know what is the mixture condition, is it lean or rich and why the DME is throwing codes at you.
Using ISTA/INPA BMW software (free software) will help you do some testing/view values/ and set a path for you to troubleshooting.
Good Luck.

 

[mrbattals]

@mrbattals
This is M5 forum, many things doesn't apply to your car, if you post in the 525 forum you may get better information related to your specific codes.
I think the fuel tank and pumps principle is similar.
First fix the fuel problem delete the codes and test again.
Tank cap fault, code be blocked carbon canister (you can apply air to the inlet to clear it) or bad tank vent valve.
Mixture faults most likely caused by blocked air filter, bad or dirty MAF or wiring, air/vacuum leaks, blocked injectors, bad spark plugs, oxygen sensor or cat, many things, this require knowing full history of the engine and multiple testing to know what is the mixture condition, is it lean or rich and why the DME is throwing codes at you.
Using ISTA/INPA BMW software (free software) will help you do some testing/view values/ and set a path for you to troubleshooting.
Good Luck.

I post to the bimmerfest, somebody gave me this link. They say that somebody has similar issue on m5 forum. So I came here. Apprecaited for all your help. Thank you so much