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Finally had some time to watch this. Few things I noticed:

That cable in the trunk is the one that Jim uses (FAMS tune). Shame you'll have to flash it to stock for tuv.

Front bumper is from an 08, hence the reflectors in it. Not that it matters you'll be getting a new one.

Rear suspension toe arms are not available from zf/lemforder, only bmw so they are not cheap. Was about $500 a side. Surprisingly they lowered their price when I bought a set earlier this year. Every other arm and balljoint can be bought from lemforder.

You're also missing the plastic coil covers. Was surprised you changing coils and plugs without removing intake hoses until it hit me.

The leak on the hp steering hose seems to be common. Requires subframe removal to replace. Will you fail tuv for that? It lives under the front shield if you can get one.

Guess you'll get a dual drain lci oil pan too? If not you can just drill and weld a bung for the 2nd plug.

Shocks n struts will not leak even if they lose their gas charge. Ask me how I know. Bet tuv includes a shock test which should find the issue.

For the price paid can't complain.tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Nice video. You’ll be even happier when you discover that you’ve only been driving it in 400 HP mode. There is a Magic button on the steering wheel that unleashes the other 100 HP and remaps the responsiveness.
Don't tell anyone, but I sneaked in a little drive down the street on quiet Sunday and pressed the M button, the trifecta lights were still on then and the rear tires would just break loose to the lightest touch of the throttle. :D

Finally had some time to watch this. Few things I noticed:

That cable in the trunk is the one that Jim uses (FAMS tune). Shame you'll have to flash it to stock for tuv.

Front bumper is from an 08, hence the reflectors in it. Not that it matters you'll be getting a new one.

Rear suspension toe arms are not available from zf/lemforder, only bmw so they are not cheap. Was about $500 a side. Surprisingly they lowered their price when I bought a set earlier this year. Every other arm and balljoint can be bought from lemforder.

You're also missing the plastic coil covers. Was surprised you changing coils and plugs without removing intake hoses until it hit me.

The leak on the hp steering hose seems to be common. Requires subframe removal to replace. Will you fail tuv for that? It lives under the front shield if you can get one.

Guess you'll get a dual drain lci oil pan too? If not you can just drill and weld a bung for the 2nd plug.

Shocks n struts will not leak even if they lose their gas charge. Ask me how I know. Bet tuv includes a shock test which should find the issue.

For the price paid can't complain.tho.
Thanks for that, I wasn't sure what that cable is for specifically.

I just confirmed what you said and those stupid guide links are $262 euro each! That's crazy, for E38/E39 Lemforder ones are $70. I was expecting that. In 99% of the cases I've come across on E38/E39 the balljoint and bushings are still good but the rubber around the balljoint deteriorates which would fail the visual inspection. At this price, might be worth finding a new rubber cap and repack them with grease if the ball joint is still good.

One of the coil covers fell apart in my hand so I threw it away and the other one is missing, I'll have to source replacement ones.

Then I'll change that line when I do the rod bearings, I'm planning to do that before TUV since I found that stuff in the oil filter cap.

I've been trying to find LCI pan but no luck so far, if anyone has a tip on where I can find one, do let me know.

They shake the front end on the special machine and watch for abnormal play but for the rear they just do visual inspection along with moving the wheel for play.
When I drove it, I was playing with the EDC button and you can definitely feel the change, it's rock hard went fully on and nice and comfy when off. With this many miles and age, I'm not expecting them to be perfect. On My E39 M5 they were also not leaking but when I removed them, all 4 were completely shot.

I daren't look how much are the new ones and I bet they are only available from BMW. I'll reach out to Nagengast in Poland as they rebuild EDC shocks for E31, E34, E39, E65... maybe they can do something here as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Perhaps he can use the free MSS6x Flasher tool that terraphantm developed to keep a backup of the tune he has on the DME before he reflashes back to stock.
To be honest, the car sounds so amazing that I want to try and keep it on the car but we'll see what happens in the end.
 

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For dampers I'd look at aftermarket options (bilstein or kw). Will be way cheaper than oe, tuv approved and at least bilstein keeps edc.
 

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Based on a clean oil filter and drain pan, I would not be concerned on the minor glitter in oil filter cap.
In your case 10w-60 is the way to go.
You may want to look at your rear tires.
Even stock m5’s needs at least a 300 tread wear rated tire less than 5 years old for traction
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Thanks! The current tires are 5-6 years old and have uneven wear so wheel alignment is in order after sorting out the suspension (replacing control arms).

Did 2 things today, put a new battery - Exide 105 Ah AGM.

I registered the battery with ISTA but now I need to change the battery capacity to 105Ah as it currently has 90Ah written.





For that, I need programming part in ISTA-P. It will connect to the car and read the VIN and model but then it asks to import vehicle order and I can't get past that. I googled but didn't manage to resolve it. Anyone have experience in this area or knows of an easier way to change battery capacity?



With a good battery, I was able to bleed the brakes properly using ISTA and cycling the pump. The brake pedal is now nice and firm and ABS kicks in as it should when I hit the brake pedal hard. Also, the airbag light cleared with the new battery and there are no lights on the dash!
 

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Don't tell anyone, but I sneaked in a little drive down the street on quiet Sunday and pressed the M button, the trifecta lights were still on then and the rear tires would just break loose to the lightest touch of the throttle. :D
In Deutschland,Man sagt ja Sonntag ist Ruhetag, aber nicht möglich wenn man hat V10. That's what I would tell the neighbors and police.
 

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I will say this again sreten, you are lucky I didn't find this thing before you did :-|

Instead I bought the damn black swan which will probably put me into the asylum!
 

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For that, I need programming part in ISTA-P. It will connect to the car and read the VIN and model but then it asks to import vehicle order and I can't get past that. I googled but didn't manage to resolve it. Anyone have experience in this area or knows of an easier way to change battery capacity?
I think you can only do ISTA/P with an ICOM on the E60, not sure if that's the hardware setup you have or if you have a K+DCAN cable. I'm still learning about all the more advanced BMW programming stuff though, it's a bit too hot and humid lately to be wrenching.
 

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Instead I bought the damn black swan which will probably put me into the asylum!
I did say that you should have put in a DCT. There are rumors of it being done successfully...

Also you already had an SMG so you kinda knew what you might be getting into. Having said that, I have some regrets as well since I bought a cheap SMG too. It is alot of wasted time.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
I think you can only do ISTA/P with an ICOM on the E60, not sure if that's the hardware setup you have or if you have a K+DCAN cable. I'm still learning about all the more advanced BMW programming stuff though, it's a bit too hot and humid lately to be wrenching.
Yes, looks like I need ICOM. I just ordered it so I'll try again once it arrives. K+DCAN is working fine with ISTA+ though.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I think you might be right, in the list to code new battery to the car, 90Ah AGM is the highest and 110Ah for normal ones.

Guess it's too late to return it and swap it for 90Ah as I've already used it. So it's possible it won't charge the battery well enough and shorten it's life?

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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Just leave it at 90 and AGM. It doesn’t make a big difference. At a high level this battery registration thing attempts to calculate the state of charge of the battery. To do that it needs to know it’s capacity (Ah) and chemistry (AGM or lead acid). The date stamp helps it factor in the natural time degradation. The IBS tells it the ambient temp. That’s all you need to model how long or “healthy” the battery is.

As I understand, it does/cannot alter the voltage from the alternator. Doing so would lower or raise the voltage for the whole car, that’s what happens when the VR craps out. The alternator voltage is determined by the load on it. Whatever the load is, it will (is supposed to) maintain an output of around 14.1v-14.5v.

This is what the battery sees and it will recharge until it can convert all the electrical energy to Chemical energy(storage). The battery will then no longer draw a current load. That’s is 100% SoC (and it degrades over time). Therefore you can have 2 (or 10) other batteries wired in parallel giving you 1050 Ah of battery capacity and the alternator will try and charge that array until it’s full. For those of us former car stereo or lowrider guys in the 90s you know what I’m talking about. That could mean your alternator is no longer powerful enough to power the car and charge the battery.

What kills batteries in BMWs is the fact that BMWs have high parasitic drain. It’s been that way since the late 90s. If these computers do not shut off properly they will keep sucking current and draw down the voltage. It’s not just the clown nose that draws current. A battery that remains discharged or undercharged will have sulfated plates, which then lowers the capacity further. Comfort Access is known to be a big parasite. Having a larger Ah only helps because it holds more energy, it’s like a bigger bucket, but it won’t solve the hole in the bucket (leak). The other thing that you should do keep a maintenance charger on the battery, it literally offsets the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
So been doing research on the rear guide links and I found these by Lemforder 27161 02, BMW part # 33326768770 which are listed in RealOEM and Lemforder catalog for E60 M5 up until 08/2006.
Mine is 12/2006 and comparing part number that's listed for mine (33322283771) they look incidental when looking at pictures on ECS. I can get these for 50 euro so I might order one and compare them in person.
 
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