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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, ever since i got the beast i simply cannot, unless i pull off slower than a granny ogling an italian in tight pants, pull off without 'kangarooing' the *****! I thought it was me being a goon, coming straight from a puny diesel van to this, although I have driven stupidly fast cars before with no trouble, but my dad can't do it either. Because 2nd is so low down its easy to pull off in 2nd and this doesn't make it jerk at all, but i know this will destroy the clutch! Any tips, anything it could be apart from my dodgy right boot?? Sorry for babbling but its an embarassing situation around town!!:grrrr:
 

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mine does that sometimes but I suspect it's the combination of a touchy throttle and worn shocks that contribute to the see-sawing motion that causes my foot to move up and down on the throttle.

If you're applying the same pedal pressure and it's jerking then that's a different story.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The initial jerk is so violent that my foot inevitably ends up tapping the accelerator again which starts the bucking motion, gettin completly off and oh so smoothly back on is the only way i've found so far
 

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Yeah often times I think I push down on the pedal a little then once the clutch is hooked up I press it a bit harder which jerks the car then the car's motion causes my foot to relax off the pedal which then causes continued jerking as the car settles and foot position keeps changing. I prevent this now by just being very, very particular in how hard I press and even lifting my heel off the carpet when I am first pulling away from a light, to prevent any change in throttle/car squatting from actually effecting my pedal position and thus jerking is kept to a minimum.

Took me a couple months to really get the hang of it but now I can drive my Beast smooth as butter. I have even had people be surprised once I give them a ride home from work, they ask at the end about my car and it comes up that its a stick shift. It feels great having people think I am driving an auto cause its so smooth :) Just practice my friend... you will get it...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I shall try but its not put me off driving it! no sir I LOVE this car! H&S exhaust next!
 

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There has to be a reasonable solution to this... It is happening to too many people (most of the folks complaining are, like me, new to their M5).

I have the exact same symptoms as those in these threads. The only way I can be smooth in 1st and 2nd is to be very light on the throttle and shift at 3,000 or more RPM, which means I accelerate very slowly in traffic. Boooorrrriiinnngggg.....In 3rd and above, you can still feel the binary like throttle modulation, but it is tolerable because of the diminished gear reduction.

In an effort to fix this problem, I've followed many of the suggestions found by searching this forum. So far, I have done:

- New fuel filter (my original filter was still clean with 83K miles)
- New upper oil seperator breather hoses (originals were a little soft in the bends)
- Techron (fuel injection cleaner)
- New OEM 029 MAFs
- Conforti 93 octane shark injector (they claim their software improves throttle response)
- Newer CPS (4)
- Newer Cats
- Newer clutch / flywheel

I have no SES light and my car had inspection 2 done 17k miles ago at the dealer.

I don't know a tremendous amount about the VANOS system, but that could very likely be the culprit too. In my car, it seems to hesitate (but doesn't run roughly) until I give it enough gas, then WHAM, I'm "on the cam" I've got like full power and the throttle just can't be modulated to back off the power so you get the kangaroos. FWIW, my VANOS is dead silent on a cold start, but can be heard after the car is warm

I know this isn't normal as I have driven a friend's E39 M5 and it was as smooth and linear in gear 1 and 2 as a camry - just faster!

Let's keep this alive until we can find the problem.... Whatever component is causing this problem seems to effect many people on this board so it is not an isolated problem.

Thanks, Ed
 

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There has to be a reasonable solution to this... It is happening to too many people (most of the folks complaining are, like me, new to their M5).

I have the exact same symptoms as those in these threads. The only way I can be smooth in 1st and 2nd is to be very light of the throttle and shift at 3,000 or more RPM, which means I accelerate very slowly in traffic. In 3rd and above, you can still feel the binary like throttle modulation, but it is tolerable because of the diminished gear reduction.

In an effort to fix this problem, I've followed many of the suggestions found by searching this forum. So far, I have done:

- New fuel filter (my original filter was still clean with 83K miles)
- New upper oil seperator breather hoses (originals were a little soft in the bends)
- Techron (fuel injection cleaner)
- New OEM 029 MAFs
- Conforti 93 octane shark injector (they claim their software improves throttle response)
- Newer CPS (4)
- Newer Cats
- Newer clutch / flywheel

I have no SES light and my car had inspection 2 done 17k miles ago at the dealer.

I don't know a tremendous amount about the VANOS system, but that could very likely be the culprit too. In my car, it seems to hesitate (but doesn't run roughly) until I give it enough gas, then WHAM, I'm "on the cam" I've got like full power and the throttle just can't be modulated to back off the power so you get the kangaroos. FWIW, my VANOS is dead silent on a cold start, but can be heard after the car is warm

I know this isn't normal as I have driven a friend's E39 M5 and it was as smooth and linear in gear 1 and 2 as a camry - just faster!

Let's keep this alive until we can find the problem.... Whatever component is causing this problem seems to effect many people on this board so it is not an isolated problem.

Thanks, Ed
Yeah i have the same thing sometimes its worse than others. if you quickly stab the throttle when idling to rev it, do you notice a metallic click?

The Vanos at idle sets itself in a position to reduce exhaust emissions (EGR?). I wonder if it has anything to do with that. I think a lot of it is learning how to manipulate the throttle, its very touchy, especially when cold.
 

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Yeah i have the same thing sometimes its worse than others. if you quickly stab the throttle when idling to rev it, do you notice a metallic click?


Hi, no metallic click when reving the motor at idle (I'm certain because I do it almost daily as I pull in the driveway at the request of my 3 and 5 year old sons :)

The engine is quiet, doesn't hunt at idle, doesn't leak any fluids and is actually very stable and smooth to drive when cold - really no differnt than when fully warmed.

Regards, Ed
 

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the vanos has nothing to do with this problem. i'll tell you exactly what the problem is, the DME. to be more specific, the programming. i changed everything even possibly related to the throttle. new pedal potentiometer, throttle potentiometers, throttle actuator, etc. nothing made any difference, in fact i think the new parts made it worse. i have the shark injector also which i think made it worse as well. not that the shark is bad, just that it makes the throttle more sensitive where the issue is it being too sensitive to begin with. i re-programmed the dme with a euro software version(by accident, didnt know at the time it was euro). the euro throttle mapping is completely different, it was as smooth and linear as can be. i programmed it back to usa and the issue came right back.

this is why i posted a few days ago looking for dme program #'s. im betting it is an issue with the latest program # which is 7837951. this is the # that would be in any m5 that had the last bmw emissions recall done. why dont we try this, i need data from both sides of the field. i need the last 7 of the vin's from some m5's that have the problem and also some that dont. post them here or pm them to me.
 

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+1 on my theory, just checked on an m5 i drove a few weeks ago that didnt have the issue. guess what, the 12 11 06(reprogram) recall is still open on it. by "open" i mean the recall was not done to the car.
 

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Hmmm. This is interesting. When i had my Powerchips reflash, it seemed the issue had toned down ALOT.

Same deal when i am in sport mode, doenst seem as bad, I guess it all relates back to the throttle.

My old car had the normal cable driven throttle body, After driving it for so long i got use to the throttle on that, when i hopped into the M5 i felt like i was 16 again learning how to drive.

If you find anything out about a fix on this let me know. I wonder if any tuning companies can provide some assistance?
 

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nightkrawler - I've read all of your posts on the subject and appreciate the tremendous amount of time, knowledge and $ you've invested on fixing the problem.

Very interesting theory you have regarding the DME. You'd think though that people would immediately complain about the way their cars are running after picking it up from the dealer's re-program. Certainly, some of those complainers would have written about this on the board years ago.... Not doubting your theory at all, just noting the ommission.

I just got my paperwork on the car from the garage - I had the dealer run a "Warranty Vehicle Inquiry" when I bought the car, and upon inspection - you're correct. Under repair history (claims) if have:

"Repair Date 8/3/2007 - mileage 59,252 - defect code 0012230200 - SIB #12-11-06 ALPINA Z8 NOT AFFECTED RECALL 06E-A03 DME REPR"

I am going to PM you my VIN now.

Regards, Ed
 

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yes i just ran your's, the recall was done to your car. so far the data collected supports my theory. however, 3 cars are not by any means conclusive. cmon guys, i need more vins.
 

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BJ10325

UK Car, last time it was in a BMW Dealership was September 2007

I do not have a problem I think !
 

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You need to be gentle with Throttle/clutch inputs with my beast to drive it smoothy. My 944T was the same.

Mine does seem to jerk around a tad in sport mode, Out of sport mode it's possible to be nice and smooth. I put it down to the throttle map in sport mode being more sensative to my inputs.

Strangely, I find they are actually easyer flat out :M5launch:
 

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GJ19515 - I understood that mine missed a recall after being imported to the UK, hence the improvement when I had an update. Be good to prove it though.
 
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