BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

So recently I've had a consistent squeaking sound from what I'm assuming is power steering belt/pulley system, it gets more pronounced when I turn the wheel, but yesterday I was driving and turned on the AC, which made the squeaking louder and faster. 2 minutes later the AC stopped blowing cold air, the squeaking stopped and I lost all power steering. SO yea. AC and power steering are lost, and I checked the PS reservoir and it was full. So I'm thinking its an Idler pulley and belts? I'm new to my car so I haven't looked around there. What should I consider addressing? Not really thrilled about the $700 dollar full Drive belt kit. What's the process like for a DIY?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I did both belts and pulleys a couple months back for far less, close to $100. The Kit you looked at was all BMW parts and included tensioners, which you probably dont need. Here are the essentials:

INA-5320342100 drive belt pulley x 2 from FCP $20 each
11287841228 Idler Pulley x 1 From ECS $27
11287838226 Water Pump/Alternator belt x 1 from ECS $17
11287835483 AC/PS belt x 1 from ECS $9

Also, there is a good DIY in the DIY section that will guild you through it. Recommend getting very familiar with it but its not a hard project to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I did both belts and pulleys a couple months back for far less, close to $100. The Kit you looked at was all BMW parts and included tensioners, which you probably dont need. Here are the essentials:

INA-5320342100 drive belt pulley x 2 from FCP $20 each
11287841228 Idler Pulley x 1 From ECS $27
11287838226 Water Pump/Alternator belt x 1 from ECS $17
11287835483 AC/PS belt x 1 from ECS $9

Also, there is a good DIY in the DIY section that will guild you through it. Recommend getting very familiar with it but its not a hard project to do.
Thank you! I will get that process going. Yea I heard tensioners were not common to fail, especially since mine is an 08 with 80k miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yep, Mine is also an 08 with 81K, I also just did the rod bearing, clutch and resealed the SMG. If you have not done the rod bearings i strongly recommend you do.
Yep. Was planning on RB's this summer. How much was the RB job and the clutch job? I'm assuming you did the flywheel as well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I did all the work myself but total on parts was probably close to 2K for everything, plus a few things i could also do with the sub-frame off. Found a very low mileage used flywheel for a bargain price which helped keep the total cost down
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
I did all the work myself but total on parts was probably close to 2K for everything, plus a few things i could also do with the sub-frame off. Found a very low mileage used flywheel for a bargain price which helped keep the total cost down
how hard is the rod bearing job as far as the technical stuff goes? i.e. making sure the bearings are seating correctly have a good gap, that your crank is in proper condition? the technical details of it I'm asking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
That all depends on how comfortable you are tearing into the motor and turning a wrench. The process is pretty straight forward and there are some good YouTube videos that describe it. Search "BMW M5/M6 S85 Rod Bearing DIY part 1". That's the beginning of a 3 part demonstration of the job. In the DIY section of this forum there is also a very good tutorial from German Auto Solutions. Once you see and watch those you'll have a much better sense if this is something you can tackle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
94 Posts
That all depends on how comfortable you are tearing into the motor and turning a wrench. The process is pretty straight forward and there are some good YouTube videos that describe it. Search "BMW M5/M6 S85 Rod Bearing DIY part 1". That's the beginning of a 3 part demonstration of the job. In the DIY section of this forum there is also a very good tutorial from German Auto Solutions. Once you see and watch those you'll have a much better sense if this is something you can tackle.
I not at all concerned about getting things apart, and putting them back together with proper torquing sequences, ect. what concerns me are the questions that once it is all done, will it hold up or is there some magical step about verifying clearances/specifications that should be taken prior to reassembly. I have ran across those DIY's at GAS, they are excellent. Hadn't watched any video's yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
323 Posts
I enjoy working on my cars and found the process pretty straight forward. As long as your crank journals are ok, its should just be a matter of swapping out the old with the new bearings and rod bolts. Some people elect to remove and inspect the HP vanos pump but it is not required unless you suspect an issue or just want piece of mind. Doing so also allows you to replace the small filter embedded in the block and gives better access to the cylinder 1 bearings but then it also requires you to apply the correct tension on the drive chain when you reinstall it. Again, not difficult but a little tricky. I think that was the most challenging step for me. There is also no coding required, which i am just starting to get the hang of. So far, about 400 miles and everything feels great.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top