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I am looking at getting my windows tinted and what a high quality install but don't want to spend extra money if there is no appreciable benefit. I did find a shop in Fremont, CA that will install the Huber Optik ceramic for about a little over $500 (front and rears). Is the ceramic tint worth the extra dollars over the Suntek Charcoal film?
 

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I looked into it....but it is too transparent with zero privacy ( like a 50% tint ).....unless that is what you are looking for......I went with Solargard Titanium 6%...best tints ever..
 

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Depends on what you are trying to achieve. If your goal is to get the absolute best solar energy rejection available ie keeping you interior protected and you staying cooler, then ceramic is the best stuff out there.

Ceramic pro's:
1) up to 70% solar energy rejection
2) contains no dye or metal (won't ever turn purple)

Ceramic con's:
1) contains no dye or metal (won't provide much in the way of privacy...the film is almost transparent.

I am in the business of mobile audio/video, security & window film. The answer to your question can only be answered by you. What are your goals? Personally, I want security & the asthetic value. So, what I did was a dual film application that provides me with the best of both worlds. The first layer (LLumar Platinum Plus 35%) provides 50% solar energy rejection as well as a metalized look that provides security (and is guaranteed to NEVER fade or turn purple). The second layer of film (Madico ONYX 55% on 2-fronts & 30% on the rest of the car) provides an additional % of solar energy rejection and security (and is also guaranteed to NEVER fade or turn purple!).

The cost of applying both films is going to actually be a little less than applying the Huper, and I like the results better.

btw, my opinion is based on the fact that I sell Huper also.........each to their own judgement though......
Robert
 

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Kind of a side question, I am going to get my windows tinted soon, mostly to keep the interior cooler, but I do like the asthetics of tinted windows, but I was wondering what percentage to people ussually tint their windows to and does it make it more difficult to see at night "besides the obvious yes, I mean to the extent where your vis can be substantially reduced to where it can pose problems when driving at night" and when people say like 35% tint does that mean 35% of light is blocked out or 35% of light is able to enter? probably dumb question but dont know much about tint, have had it done before but didnt really know what I was buying, guy didint offer any various products, before it was just one price and one kind of tint, thanks, Josh
 

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1badm5 said:
Depends on what you are trying to achieve. If your goal is to get teh absolute best solar protection available ie keeping you interior protected and you staying cooler, then ceramic is the best stuff out there.
Robert
Robert-

As I'm in Houston, my main concern is keeping the interior temps down. Security and/or privacy doesn't matter to me. Would ceramic be the best option? Do you have a place in Houston that you would recommend? Could I have in dont by your shop in Dallas?

Thanks,
TexasM5
 

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TexasM5, if security/privacy is not your concern, but keeping interior temps minimized, then a ceramic film (Huper optic) is perfect for you. It has the absolute best solar energy rejection available, is optically clear, provides a minimum amount of "tint", will never bubble/fade or turn purple and is (without question) the best (quality) film available today. It is not cheap, but is definately worth the cost of admission. Most customers of Huper Optic film are driving MB/Audi/Hummer & BMW. It retails for $499 installed, but I will be happy to offer you a significant discount if you bring it to me in Arlington. I do not have a satelite location in Houston, and could not recommend a store in Houston. Honestly, most "tint" shops are not operated in a manner I would approve.

Robert

TexasM5 said:
Robert-

As I'm in Houston, my main concern is keeping the interior temps down. Security and/or privacy doesn't matter to me. Would ceramic be the best option? Do you have a place in Houston that you would recommend? Could I have in dont by your shop in Dallas?

Thanks,
TexasM5
 

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The percentage (35%) is the amount of transmitted light ENTERING the vehicle. That number has no correlation<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p> to TOTAL SOLAR ENERGY REJECTION (which keeps you & your interior cooler). Do not be misled to believe a "dyed" (cheap$$) film is going to keep you cool. It is not. A dyed film will fade, bubble and turn purple. To get a high TOTAL SOLAR ENERGY REJECTION number you will have to use a metalized (most are a hybrid being metal & dye) or a ceramic.

From what you have stated, I would recommend you look at a LLUMAR or MADICO film. Be sure to check and make sure the film is a METALIZED film as both LLUMAR & MADICO offer a dyed film that lots of "tint shops" offer for less $$ and have the customer think they are getting a true metalized film. Buyer-be-ware (and educated!).

Lastly, if you want to be able to see OUT the windows at night don't get darker than 20% (the lower the % the darker the film ie 5% is considered "limo").

Robert
bmwusa said:
Kind of a side question, I am going to get my windows tinted soon, mostly to keep the interior cooler, but I do like the asthetics of tinted windows, but I was wondering what percentage to people ussually tint their windows to and does it make it more difficult to see at night "besides the obvious yes, I mean to the extent where your vis can be substantially reduced to where it can pose problems when driving at night" and when people say like 35% tint does that mean 35% of light is blocked out or 35% of light is able to enter? probably dumb question but dont know much about tint, have had it done before but didnt really know what I was buying, guy didint offer any various products, before it was just one price and one kind of tint, thanks, Josh
 

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1badm5 said:
TexasM5, if security/privacy is not your concern, but keeping interior temps minimized, then a ceramic film (Huper optic) is perfect for you. It has the absolute best solar energy protection available,
As am engineer, I am a bit of a skeptic with some products...

What do you mean by "solar protection"- this is a broad marketing claim, but not a verifiable measurement.

What I want is a transmission versus wavelength plot for huber and ohter films- none of this marketing hype and BS.

Almost all plastics stop UV. is this solar protection? The darker the film the less light enters the car- when light strikes a surface and is absorbed it gives off heat- hence a darker film is cooler.

You can have a film that admits no UV but is way 'hotter' than a darker film.

What am I missing?

A

PS Let's deal with data not adjectives and anecdotes.
 

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I have the Huper Optik Ceramic - 40%/50% (it also comes in 30%) - and it does a great job of keeping the interior temp down, particularly when combined with the aux ventilation. As for as the privacy/security issue, if you want the limo tint look, then as the others have said the Huper Optik just doesn't get that dark. Personally, I don't care for the limo look, and the 40/50 tint is visibly dark and goes great with the sterling grey color of my car.

I'm not sure where in Fremont you were thinking of going, but mine was done by the Auto Mall Tint Factory in Fremont. If you do it, make sure you have them extend the tint all the way to the edges (which they didn't do the first time).
 

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The previous owner had it done and I don't know how much he paid. I do know that he had to pay an extra 100 bucks to have the tint extended all the way to the edges because of the extra labor involved.

Osodog said:
Yeah, I think its the same place, I've been emailing a guy named Sidney Lee. Approximately how much did you pay for this install?
 

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ard said:
As am engineer, I am a bit of a skeptic with some products...

What do you mean by "solar protection"- this is a broad marketing claim, but not a verifiable measurement.

What I want is a transmission versus wavelength plot for huber and ohter films- none of this marketing hype and BS.

Almost all plastics stop UV. is this solar protection? The darker the film the less light enters the car- when light strikes a surface and is absorbed it gives off heat- hence a darker film is cooler.

You can have a film that admits no UV but is way 'hotter' than a darker film.

What am I missing?

A

PS Let's deal with data not adjectives and anecdotes.
Ard, I am sorry you feel the need to attack my response to a question. We are talking about window film here...not the science involved in splitting the atom. I am sharing what my experience has been with the films mentioned here in hopes of helping the poster with his decision. You had not asked a question on this thread, nor had you mentioned your desire to learn more about window film applications. What you did do was attack me. If you want to learn more about window films I encourage you to research the subject. I'm very optimistic you will find a wealth of information regarding the product and it's applications.

I will however try to respond to your questions:


As am engineer, I am a bit of a skeptic
I didn't know being an engineer had anything to do with you being a skeptic. Sorry to hear that, that's depressing.

What do you mean by "solar protection"
Solar Energy Rejection in regards to the topic here would mean HEAT REJECTION.

What I want is a transmission versus wavelength plot for huber and ohter films- You will have to get the "transmission vs wavelength plot" for yourself, I'm sure the information is available, but what I can tell you is there is ALOT less heat transmitted into a car equipped with Huper (ceramic) than any other film I have encountered. Remember, I have experience with both the Ceramic (Huper) as well as metalized (hybrid metalized & dye).

none of this marketing hype and BS.
Hey, it's only marketing hype if it ain't so...my experience has been that the cermic film has a much higher SORAR ENERGY REJECTION (heat rejection) than metalized. The proofs in the "pudding". If it works it ain't BS. You will have to make your own determination in that regards.

Almost all plastics stop UV. is this solar protection?
No. Not in the context stated here, I was talking about SOLAR ENERGY REJECTION, however, metalized film & ceramic film are very similar in regards to UV protection. Both are somewhere between 97%-99% effective.

What am I missing?
There is a wealth of information regarding window films & their individual properties and applications available to research. You got the time, you should stay entertained for quite sometime.

PS Let's deal with data not adjectives and anecdotes
I'll let you gather any additional academic data, I'll stick with the practical applications I stated in my earlier post (s).

Robert
 

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ard said:
As am engineer, I am a bit of a skeptic with some products...

What do you mean by "solar protection"- this is a broad marketing claim, but not a verifiable measurement.

What I want is a transmission versus wavelength plot for huber and ohter films- none of this marketing hype and BS.

Almost all plastics stop UV. is this solar protection? The darker the film the less light enters the car- when light strikes a surface and is absorbed it gives off heat- hence a darker film is cooler.

You can have a film that admits no UV but is way 'hotter' than a darker film.

What am I missing?

A

PS Let's deal with data not adjectives and anecdotes.
Good points. A follow up question is...what window tint manufacturers claim to block both UVA and UVB? Important question for both our skin and our, um, hides. :D
 

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I, too, are an engineer, and I actually found Robert's response to be both helpful and consistent with my own personal tinting experience (on the consumer side) in my last 13 years of owning BMWs in the Southwest and Southeast US.

The 'marketing hype' numbers he states are fairly standard within the window film industry. If you do a little web research (as I did when I was last in the market for a change), you will find answers to all the questions you seek.

I've only used the sputtered metallic films, not any of the ceramics, as it's been five years (and one day!) since I had my Beastie tinted--I don't recall hearing of the Huber product back then. But my purchasing criteria were (1) thermal protection, (2) aesthetics and privacy, and (3) UV protection. FWIW, reduced AM radio reception and loss of rearward V1 receptivity were known factors, but not deal breakers. My directional locator arrow still works!

Thanks for the input, 1bad.

-Dave
 

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1badm5 said:
Ard, I am sorry you feel the need to attack my response to a question. We are talking about window film here...not the science involved in splitting the atom. I
Robert
Apologies if my 'attack' was personal- it was NOT INTENDED TO BE PERSONAL.

If you spend some time researching films there is not much data available- and this is on purpose.

Anyway, "solar protection" and "heat rejection" are just marketing hyperbole. There are only a few items one should be concerned with: UV transmission, IR transmission and visible light transmission.

UV degrades the interior
IR is heat
Light turn into heat when it strikes a surface

Simple, but film mfgs try to shuck and jive so you think the ceramic will defeat the laws of physics....

emperors new clothes, baby.

NOTHING PERSONAL!

A
 

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ard said:
Anyway, "solar protection" and "heat rejection" are just marketing hyperbole. There are only a few items one should be concerned with: UV transmission, IR transmission and visible light transmission.

UV degrades the interior
IR is heat
Light turn into heat when it strikes a surface
Ard-

'solar protection' and 'heat rejection' are marketing terms, to be sure, but they're not hyperbole unless they're used to exaggerate or misrepresent the facts. While you and DoctorV8 may well understand the film's properties when stated in terms of UV and IR transmission versus wavelength, that ain't gonna cut it for 98% of the tint-purchasing public.

Those folks merely want to "make it darker," "make it cooler," or "keep my dash from cracking." Hence the more descriptive terms to enable the manufacturer to, yes, market their product.

It ain't all a conspiracy, baby!

-D
 
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