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Discussion Starter #1
I got my 2000 M5 about 3 weeks ago. In the last 2 weeks, I've twice had the SES light come on just driving around doing errands, then have it go out after a couple of stop/start cycles. Each time, when I read the codes that evening with my Peake tool, I read:
error 08 = intake CPS, cylinders #5-8
error B8 = intake camshaft VANOS position control, cylinders #1-4

The car doesn't seem any different when the light comes on, but I don't have a lot of seat time to go by to feel any power difference. No difference in exhaust note, however.

Obviously, the two fault area on different banks, but could they be related?

Should I wait until the CPS totally fails or just replace it now?

I'm having a complete service next week with all fluids, filters, etc and it probably wouldn't be much extra to do the CPS at the same time. Should I do that and then see if the VANOS fault reoccurs?
 

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I think that you'll hear a different exhaust tone if your exhaust cps sensors are bad, not your intakes. I've had a bad CPS during my first few weeks of having the car (also intake cps, but different bank).

Bad CPSs are known for throwing other codes that don't relate, like your VANOS code, for example.

My symptoms werent obvious, but if the car was warm and I shut it off, i would get the symptom when I started it up: Upon firing it up, the revs would go past 1000 rpms, then drop to about 500, dip slightly below 400 and the car would cough a little bit to keep from stalling. This is when the SES light would come on.

If I were you, I'd follow standard practice with this: Reset codes, see what comes back. Then, if you get the same codes, replace the CPS (and don't be surprised if your vanos code doesnt come back after this).
 

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+1
 

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I think that you'll hear a different exhaust tone if your exhaust cps sensors are bad, not your intakes. I've had a bad CPS during my first few weeks of having the car (also intake cps, but different bank).

Bad CPSs are known for throwing other codes that don't relate, like your VANOS code, for example.

My symptoms werent obvious, but if the car was warm and I shut it off, i would get the symptom when I started it up: Upon firing it up, the revs would go past 1000 rpms, then drop to about 500, dip slightly below 400 and the car would cough a little bit to keep from stalling. This is when the SES light would come on.

If I were you, I'd follow standard practice with this: Reset codes, see what comes back. Then, if you get the same codes, replace the CPS (and don't be surprised if your vanos code doesnt come back after this).
+1. Often, bad CPS will throw a false VANOS code too. It is usually the same bank however.

I would change the CPS, and then clear codes. You can always do VANOS later, and it is much more money, depending on whether just a bad solenoid, or the whole unit needs to be be changed out.

Figure about $200ish installed at the dealer for CPS.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Should I wait until the CPS totally fails or just replace it now?
Should I do that and then see if the VANOS fault reoccurs?
You hit it right on the money. I had the same issue the first time a CPS went out. Replaced the CPS, cleared codes, and the next time a code reappeared, it was a CPS on the opposite bank. As others have mentioned, go with the CPS first, as it is obviously the cheaper alternative and seems to be issue. Good luck!
 

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I've been getting the same codes for several months. I clear them and they come back in 2-10 days. Recently I've not cleared them, so the shop can see them, and they go away by themselves after a few days, only to come back.

Initially there were no symptoms other than a cold, low rpm stumble. Recently the power loss has become noticeable regularly - it feels like my old E36 328i in terms of power. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not - WOT in 3rd feels like WOT in 6th when things are working right.

I'm taking it in to the shop later this week. I described this condition elsewhere (Peake codes thread, iirc) and others had the same symptoms, same deterioration over time, and replacing the CPS did the trick.
 

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My SES used to be intermittent at first as well. Coincidentally, this happened whenever I fueled up, so I thought it mightve been a loose gas cap. After a while, though (a week perhaps), the light just wouldnt go away. This is when I got a peake reader and sorted everything out.
 

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I had the B8 code on my car, replaced the CPS still got it, replaced VANOS solenoid. If you do this yourself and would like to buy a slightly used (18K) CPS, please PM or email me.

Best of luck,

Michael
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update:
Had the intake bank #2 (driver's side) CPS replaced yesterday while I was having valve cover gaskets done. The difference was amazing. Even though I wasn't getting hard CPS fault codes and never went into limp mode, the performance and smoothness is so much better now. No VANOS position control (solenoid) fault from the other bank, either.

A bonus is that is looks like my MPG on my normal drive home-to-work and back is up almost 2 mpg from the mid 14's to the mid 16's.

I like happy endings. :applause:
 

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Same update here. I had the Intake bank 2 CPS replaced and all of the lack-of-power, hesitation, etc. symptoms are gone. The Vanos and other codes were presumably generated as a by-product of the CPS error.

My home-to-work round trip is still at 21.5mpg, no real change.
 

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Update:
Had the intake bank #2 (driver's side) CPS replaced yesterday while I was having valve cover gaskets done. The difference was amazing. Even though I wasn't getting hard CPS fault codes and never went into limp mode, the performance and smoothness is so much better now. No VANOS position control (solenoid) fault from the other bank, either.

A bonus is that is looks like my MPG on my normal drive home-to-work and back is up almost 2 mpg from the mid 14's to the mid 16's.

I like happy endings. :applause:
I am going to replace my intake CPS sensor tomorrow. That is exactly the problem I have currently. My fault code is "Intake camshaft position sensor, Cyl #5-8" and "Intake camshaft VANOS position control Cyl #1-4"

I forgot to add. I have already replaced my passenger side intake CPS sensor.
 

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I would replace it now..

ITs a good thing It threw SES without any common "powerloss" & "blatty exhaust note" .
It also happend to me fairly recent too. I had the Exhaust CPS bank 2 (cyl#5-8) and it also throw the Vanos position error for cyl#1-4. I keep clearing the code and it came back with only the exhaust CPS.

I finally replaced it and reset, and it never came back.

For the record, I don't have the common: powerloss and blatty exhaust either, just the SES light, but at the same time I also got E8 (fuel tank breather valve) which could be the SES light trigger :).

Here is the thread with the history of my Peake code related to my exhaust CPS bank 2

Regardz,


J Irwan
 

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I would replace it now..

ITs a good thing It threw SES without any common "powerloss" & "blatty exhaust note" .
It also happend to me fairly recent too. I had the Exhaust CPS bank 2 (cyl#5-8) and it also throw the Vanos position error for cyl#1-4. I keep clearing the code and it came back with only the exhaust CPS.

I finally replaced it and reset, and it never came back.

For the record, I don't have the common: powerloss and blatty exhaust either, just the SES light, but at the same time I also got E8 (fuel tank breather valve) which could be the SES light trigger :).

Here is the thread with the history of my Peake code related to my exhaust CPS bank 2

Regardz,


J Irwan
I have some power loss but what I got is hesitation. I have been driving like that for 4 months. Finally I am just now replacing them, because it is getting annoying. HAHA
 

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I think this is a good time to explain the symtoms I had when my vanos soleniod was going bad so people can compair it to the problems they are having.

Start the car and no real problem it can feel very slightly sluggish but you are almost unable to tell. Once the car is warmed up WOT's are possible and the car feels very strong, however if once the car is warm the rpm's drop below 2000 you will instantly feel something has gone wrong. Acceleration will be very poor a bit lick limp mode but less smooth. If you pull the car over to the side of the road and switch it off for 1 second and re-start the problem will be gone until the next time you drop below 2000 rpm.
 

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I have some power loss but what I got is hesitation. I have been driving like that for 4 months. Finally I am just now replacing them, because it is getting annoying. HAHA
Success! I have replaced both Intake CPS sensor and all is well. I would like to add the procedure. When it comes times to remove the second bolt to the black metal bracket. It very near to a hose. I had to use my 10 mm mini wrench to loosen that bolt. Other than that. The walk-through is terrific. Thanks.
 
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