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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently replaced my rear ball joints and integral link. The bolt (#4) backed out and messed up maybe 1/4 of the thread on the HUB itself. I used my die cut kit to clean up the outer threads and was able to screw a brand new bolt from dealer. I torqued it 77lb/ft, but should I go ahead and apply some red loctite on it? I replaced 2 (#7) and 2 (#6) at this point in time Do you think with 1/4 of the threads slightly warped would validate the reason to replace the hub?



I'm gonna go ahead and change out the upper control arms(x4) in the rear with the car jacked up. ball joints on those control arms probably suffered some stress as the wheel went up into the well and forward towards the engine. With that.. my whole suspension will be new, except subframe bushings and diff bushings.
 

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Recently replaced my rear ball joints and integral link. The bolt (#4) backed out and messed up maybe 1/4 of the thread on the HUB itself. I used my die cut kit to clean up the outer threads and was able to screw a brand new bolt from dealer. I torqued it 77lb/ft, but should I go ahead and apply some red loctite on it? I replaced 2 (#4) and 2 (#6) at this point in time Do you think with 1/4 of the threads slightly warped would validate the reason to replace the hub?



I'm gonna go ahead and change out the upper control arms(x4) in the rear with the car jacked up. ball joints on those control arms probably suffered some stress as the wheel went up into the well and forward towards the engine. With that.. my whole suspension will be new, except subframe bushings and diff bushings.
I think you mean bolt #6? Also I am not clear on what was damaged on the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
i apologize, i meant bolt number 7. this bolt backed out from the hub and the tip of the bolt damaged the thread inside the hub itself.

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn201/literbikz/Rear Suspension DIY/CIMG3418.jpg

in this picture (not my picture) Top bolt on integral link backed out. With the tip of the bolt inside the hub, the weight of the car basically applied enough leverage to shear some of the threads inside the hub. I hope that was explained well enough.
 

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You did not do any better explaining. The female thread that bolt 7 tightens too?
If you want to use a torch to get the bolt out use red but if you think you might want to get it out later use blue loctite, or better the new blue loctite tape rules.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
sailor, the #7 bolt tightens into the female end which is the HUB itself. The threads inside the hub what is messed up, but only the first 3 maybe 4 threads. everything after that is good. i dont see myself messing with this suspension again anytime soon, but i'll go with loctite blue. thanks.
 

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Think that is where we are having problems, If you just say hub most will assume you mean the part that the wheel bolts to. Just from the bearing outward. The part where that thread is located, is called the wheel carrier.
 

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I just went through this as well on both sides. Bolt #7 tore out a section of the thread in the aluminum wheel carrier on it's way out, pretty bad on the drivers side. I cleaned up the thread with a tap and picked the aluminum out of the bolt threads. Unfortunately, this appears to be by design because both bolts had one or two threads purposely deformed to act as retention features. I took a die and trued the thread up. Bolt went back in with a little blue loctite. Maybe the newer cars didn't use the deformed thread on that bolt, because I don't recall anyone mentioning this in any of the ball joint replacement threads. The combo of the deformed thread and corrosion on the end of the bolt virtually guarantee that the female threaded hole is going to be damaged. :grrrrr:
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. I see I'm not the only one.. I'll be heading to get some loctite and then I'll torque to it to spec. Waiting for my control arms to come in and I'll be set.
 

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Thanks. I see I'm not the only one.. I'll be heading to get some loctite and then I'll torque to it to spec. Waiting for my control arms to come in and I'll be set.
If your car is anything like mine, be prepared to battle the eccentric bolt on the front arm #14. Both of mine are frozen in the bushing and I'll be cutting them out tonight if it stops raining. The wishbone arm is a piece of cake. Don't forget to raise the suspension to ride height level before tightening all the bolts on the bushing ends of the arms, same with the integral link.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Eccentric bolt not frozen for sure. Did an alignment 3 weeks ago. No problem with it being frozen.. Not sure about the other! Lol can't wait!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Pictures always help as reference for future searchers. you can see the indentation on the lower portion of the hole.
This was after cleaning up the threads with a die. Blue loctite has been applied and bolt has been torqued to 77lbft with suspension at ride height.

481930
 

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