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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
...and would like anyoone who has been through it to give me a hint where to start cutting, and any other pointers they may have. I don't want to come up short if you know what I mean!

:biggrin:
 

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ALEV8-


I am really excited to hear the difference if you can make a couple of wav files. This is exactly the mod I want to do. I grew up with GTO's, Stage 1 Buick's, and wayyy to many Corvettes to mention. I heard some kind of newer Mustang the other day (not new body style) not sure what it was, but I think those things have 302's and man-o-man did it sound nice. Deep, throaty, little bit of a snarl. Please keep me informed as to approx cost effort etc.
Thanks ALEV 8

ALEV8 said:
...and would like anyoone who has been through it to give me a hint where to start cutting, and any other pointers they may have. I don't want to come up short if you know what I mean!

:biggrin:
 

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You will not be dissapointed your street will sound like an F1 curcuit :D


If you have any boom, no problem lining the whols boot nd back seat with Dynomat extreme (Easy but time consuming) will remove all of this boom and noise inside. If I have the windows shut I can hear a distant race car, open a side window and I realise why everyone is staring !!

It will sound awesome !
 

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ALEV8 said:
...and would like anyoone who has been through it to give me a hint where to start cutting, and any other pointers they may have. I don't want to come up short if you know what I mean!

:biggrin:
Here is my suggestion.

1. remove subframe connectors to get good access to the bolts that connect the xpipe
2. hold up the xpipe and match up the bolting flange to these bolts. this is a fixed position.
3. mark the end of the xpipe on the pipes behind the cats.
4. measure the take-out of the female flange and make a mark (downstream of the first mark you made) to allow for male pipe insertion into the flange.
This is your cut mark.
5. Cut both pipes (sawzall with SS blades. unbolt factory cans from mounts and drop entire factory cat back. Sure helps if you are on a lift and have a transmission stand. a mini grinder is nice to have to debur connections.
6. temporarily install xpipe to make sure the bolts on the cross brace line up and that the male/female connection is snug.
7. remove xpipe and apply sealent to the male pipe (factory) re-install xpipe and bolt up to cross brace.
8. install one of the kelleners onto end of xpipe and place on location. look to make sure the bolting flanges on the cans align with the factory stud connections. temporarily bolt up.
Hints: If the length is off, you can trim the xpipe if necessary, but it should be ok. You may have to bend/adjust the mounting brackets on the cans as well.
9. install the other can and check for fitup with the bolts/flanges.
10. remove cans, install sealent on male ends of xpipe and reinstall cans.
hint: make sure you reinstall factroy heat shields. These can be a little cumbersome to deal with in the can install process.
11. tighten everything up and check for tip alignment (horizontal/vertical)
12. adjust as necessary.
13. start up and check for leaks

now for my disclaimer (this is from my memory banks done 18 months ago and at my age anything is possible)

if anyone else has any other suggestions, please chime in.

good luck with the install. I absolutely love the sound.

al
 

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Alex...........

I have the kelleners exhaust cans on my car. I use to have the S.S. X-Pipe combined with the Kelleners but when I had the Dinan S2 package done, Dinan felt that the stock resonators had to be put back on, so the X-Pipe was removed. I swear you'll love the sound!!! Once you go kelleners & X-Pipe you'll never settle for any other combo., unless you do the S2 package of course! hehehehe........ :hihi:
Last, The overall sound will remind you of a NASCARish tone/sound, not a F1 racer. yea baby...... :M5thumbs:
 
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