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Discussion Starter #1
BEHOLD! My in-dash Nexus 7 install is finally complete!

Figured others might be interested in an in-dash tablet install, so here are some details that might help you along in the process. There are MUCH easier ways to accomplish a monitor/stereo upgrade (Pioneer App Radio is decent), but I wanted a full functioning tablet and I think it was totally worth it in the end!

This info applies specifically to my 2001 E39 M5 (M-Audio/DSP). The wiring for Non-DSP is different so be warned. Pictures to follow soon! I may post photos from other installs in an effort to gather all of this info in one place, and will do my best to give credit where it's due. If you're not cool with that, just let me know and I'll take down the photos and post a link instead.

Things you'll need:
Janus Double Din Kit (on eBay for $76) - E39 Doppel-DIN
Google Nexus 7 Tablet (2013) - This fits perfect in the Janus faceplate. The iPad mini will NOT fit. Not sure about others...
JBL MS-8 (or other) sound processor - (on eBay for ~$450) - MS-8 | Car Audio DSP, Powered Digital Sound Processor | JBL US
Aftermarket Head Unit with Bluetooth HFP and A2DP (if you want to use your phone and stream music)
(1) 16 foot RCA cable
(1) 16 foot RCA to 3.5mm headphone jack (optional)
(1) External microphone for your aftermarket head unit
(1) 2.1 amp car charger (this is critical for proper fast charging of the tablet)
(1) Cigarette lighter kit
Soldering iron and/or lots of crimp connectors
Double sided velcro

Step 1 - Prepping your Nexus 7 (2013)* and Janus double-din plate
Believe it or not, the Nexus 7 will fit perfectly. You’ll just want to use some double sided sticky tape to adjust the fit around the edges and get it snugged in.

*A key point - In order to be able to turn the Nexus on and off you will need to flash a custom kernel. Elementalx has a Tap2Wake/Swipe2Wake feature that lets you turn the tablet on and off. You’ll need this since the power switch will be hidden behind the dash. You can use the 2012 Nexus 7, but you will have to solder on an external switch which is a major PITA and I don’t recommend it.

Once these steps are done you can place your Nexus in the Janus plate and use velcro strips to hold it down. Nice!


Step 2 - Removing OEM equipment
Here's a great thread to started on removing the DSP and related components:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/blogs/ben5/295-e39-m5-stereo-upgrade-part-1-dsp-amp-removed-jbl-ms-8-installed.html

Here's another link to a video describing a MKIV navigation upgrade that will also help orient you. BMW E39 5-Series MKIV & 16:9 Display Navigation Upgrade DIY - YouTube
About 13 minutes in, you'll also get a description of how to remove the actual navigation display itself (they're all fairly similar, just be careful).

Once you have all this stuff out, you'll want to pull the passenger-side kick panels and rocker covers so that you can run your two RCAs and the MS-8 monitor wire from the glove box to the MS-8. If you want your install to be really clean, you'll also want to pull your back seat and the trunk interior panels as well.


Step 3 - Install time!
The first thing you'll want to do is run your RCA cables from the DSP area in the trunk all the way up to the glove box (where your head unit will go). To flip the glove box down, you'll need to remove the cover plate underneath, then open the glove box and remove the clips that hold the glove box to the arms. Once you do this, you'll have easy access for pulling in your RCAs and bringing wires over from the central dash area.

MS-8 Wiring - Before you mess with anything, disconnect the battery
Here are the pinouts for the Again, these pinouts and colors are related specifically to my 2001 E39 M5 (M-Audio/DSP), but I'm sure that they probably apply to other BMW DSP systems. The wires are twisted pairs, which makes organizing and keeping track of them all real easy.

In the mess of the hollow that is now free of your factory DSP you will be looking for two connectors that contain the wires that you will need. #1 is a 26-pin connector that has the bulk of the speakers, minus the subs and the rear deck speakers. #2 is a 15-pin connector that houses the wiring for the subs and the rear deck speakers.

Pinouts thanks to 1C00lVS, wire colors thanks to me!
The pinouts for the 26 pin connector are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- LH front woofer + yellow/red
2- LH front woofer - yellow/brown
3- Not used
4- RH front mid-range - blue/brown
5- LH front mid-range + yellow/white
6- Not used
7- Not used
8- Not used
9- RH front mid-range + blue/white
10-LH front mid-range - yellow/brown
11-Right rear mid-range speaker/tweeter + blue/purple
12-RH front tweeter + blue/green
13-RH front woofer + blue/red
14-LH front tweeter + yellow/green
15 LH front tweeter - yellow/brown
16-Left rear mid-range speaker/tweeter - yellow/gray
17-Not used
18-Not used
19-Left rear mid-range speaker/tweeter + yellow/pink
20-Not used
21-Not used
22-Not used
23-Not used
24-Right rear mid-range speaker/tweeter - blue/gray
25-RH front tweeter - blue/brown
26 RH front woofer - blue/brown

The 15 pin connector pinouts are a bit confusing, so I'll stick with location and wire color. The subs each have two sets of positive and negative wires.
Left Rear Woofer + yellow/gray
Left Rear Woofer - yellow black
Right Rear Woofer + blue/black
Right Rear Woofer - blue/gray
Sub 1 (Driver side) + blue/white & yellow/black
Sub 1 (Driver side) - blue/brown & yellow/gray
Sub 2 (Pass side) + yellow/red & yellow/white
Sub 2 (Pass side) - gray brown & yellow/brown

My advice is to methodically cut each set and connect them to the appropriate 'Output' wire coming from the MS-8.

If you are only running (amping) from the MS-8 initially, you really should cut out the rears. They suck anyway and you only have 8-channels and very little power so you should conserve it for your main entertainment zone. I’ll amend this write-up when I install another amp for the rears.

For power and ground, you can use the Red/Green (+) and Brown (-) wires from the 15 pin connector. You will want to snag a free purple/white wire (switched +) for the Remote In (switched power).

Head Unit Wiring
This is pretty novice stuff, so I’m not going to spend any time here. My recommendation is to grab your switched power and ground from the flashlight connector since it's right there in the glove box. If you want to really do it right, you can get actual ACC power from Pin 1 (green wire) on the connector that’s on the left side of the steering column.

Nexus Wiring
Here's where you'll want your spare cigarette lighter and 2.1 amp charger. Wire up the cigarette lighter to switched power and plug in your 2.1 amp charger. Note: I cannot stress the importance of using the correct charger for the Nexus. It will not charge quick enough if you're not supplying the correct amperage.

Now that everything is hardwired, pull the headphone jack/RCA cable to the Nexus and bring both sets of RCA’s back to the MS-8. You’ll switch between two different channels during operation. One for the head unit/Bluetooth phone audio and one to run direct to the Nexus. If I figure out a nice way to run everything on one channel, I’ll make an update.


Dry Run - time to start her up and check your work
On startup, you'll want to check and see if you have power everywhere. The MS-8 has a little blue light that will stay illuminated if it's on. Head unit should be on... Nexus should be charging. Everything working? If yes, move forward. If not, go through and check all your connections.

Be sure that the head unit is sending out a raw 2-channel signal with flat EQ. No funky stuff here as the MS-8 just needs a flat 2-channel signal. Once this is done, it's time to run through the MS-8's diagnostic mode (follow the instructions). If you here white noise from all the correct zones, you're in the right place. If not, check your MS-8 settings and/or your connections.

Once you're done with the set up, you'll notice that, unfortunately, everything sounds pretty ****ty. This is because the MS-8 quick set up does not work very well; at least it didn't for me. You will have to manually go in and set up the Crossovers and EQ. I'm not going to go into this as this post is already long enough, but if you don't have a clue, you can pay a good car audio tech to set it up for you.

The end result is an AMAZING sounding system. I didn't change the stock speakers and they sound infinitely better. The real cool thing about it? You now have a Nexus 7 tablet in your dash that has infinite capability.

I'll update soon with appropriate settings for your Nexus and Android phone so that you can really take advantage of this dope setup. Cheers!
 

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oh snap, tagging this to refer back to when I do this in a few months.

One significant comment to anyone considering this, LOOK INTO TIMUR'S ROM (pending Nexus 2013 release this May). This addresses a lot of issues, including blue tooth streaming, external storage, rapid charging, usb audio out, better sleep/wake functionality and an awful lot more that makes this good for car installs.

Another possibility that has crossed my mind is doing that in conjunction with http://www.startercircuits.com/ so you could maintain some steering wheel controls as well. However, I believe this might require you to keep the radio still attached somewhere. I'm really not sure. The guy also is not selling these any more though there were indications he might provide instructions and possibly even selling the components for self assembly.
 

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Curious (respectfully) what your motivation was for this modification.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Well, there are a few to be honest! :grinyes:

1) The MKIII nav unit was making the car feel really dated
2) Bluetooth hands-free capability
3) I didn't want to be limited to the controlled software architecture of the App Radio (as opposed to pure Android)
4) Better audio quality - especially when I upgrade speakers
5) It looks badass!!!
6) Gauges and logging ability for my AFR, Boost, and other sensors (my next post)

In fairness, most people would do well with an App Radio. I just wanted a little bit more out of the system. On that note, I will add to this thread when I get some more done. Steering wheel controls and an amp for the rear speakers to come soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How are you handling the steering wheel controls? Sneak preview please!
Not sure yet. I'm just about to post my PLX sensor install (virtual gauges on the tablet). As soon as I get the kinks ironed out and my amp for the rear speakers installed, I will tackle the steering wheel controls. I'll keep you all informed. :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I saw this thing in person when he sold me my VIS Hood recently..

This setup and mod is absolutely BEAST!! Beyond cool bro, kudos. :applause:
Thanks man! Took me long enough to do the write-up huh?!

Just posted the PLX Devices Kiwi Bluetooth, AFR, and Boost sensor install here.
 

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Has anyone seen (inperson) or used the Andrive system? OEM looks, cheaper, and more functionality than the Dynavin unit. Its not a must have for me, but I'd consider it if it got the M5board seal of approval.


http://www.andrive.co.uk/android_bmw_e39.php
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Andrive is quite similar to other offerings in that it utilizes a form of Android OS. I haven't spent a lot of time looking at it but I can see that its running Ice Cream Sandwich, which is pretty antiquated at this point. You have to watch out because a lot of these 'Android' units are not updatable or they're running their own mod of Android (not pure Android). Keep in mind that Android is open source so its NOT like iOS. Saying it runs on Android can mean a lot of things.

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Discussion Starter #13
I was investigating steering wheel controls and found this which looks perfect
Pretty sweet but I think I'm just going to tap into the existing controls and connect directly to my head unit for now Could be a possibility though.

I'm running the tablet and head unit on separate channels at the moment because I haven't figured out how to get the tablet to accept and control calls through the head unit Bluetooth system. That unit might work if and when I get everything working on one channel.

I have a controller for the JBL unit right next to me so its not my top concern for the moment. ;)

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Well, there are a few to be honest! :grinyes:

1) The MKIII nav unit was making the car feel really dated
2) Bluetooth hands-free capability
3) I didn't want to be limited to the controlled software architecture of the App Radio (as opposed to pure Android)
4) Better audio quality - especially when I upgrade speakers
5) It looks badass!!!
6) Gauges and logging ability for my AFR, Boost, and other sensors (my next post)

In fairness, most people would do well with an App Radio. I just wanted a little bit more out of the system. On that note, I will add to this thread when I get some more done. Steering wheel controls and an amp for the rear speakers to come soon.

Take my hat off to you. That looks very complicated. Nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks! Mostly patience though. Once I got wiring pinouts, it wasn't too bad. Two weekends because the first amp I installed was toast and I spent a bazillion hours troubleshooting my wiring when it was just a busted amp (don't buy open box from Best Buy). ouich
 

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Very cool write up. Can you post pics of the head unit in the glove box? Do you ever need to do anything with it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Very cool write up. Can you post pics of the head unit in the glove box? Do you ever need to do anything with it?
I haven't really finished it very nicely yet but I'll post a photo soon. And no, you don't have to use it for anything unless you want to play a CD which is not an issue for me!

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Discussion Starter #19
It is, but not without pulling the faceplate out. If you don't want it installed flush you can just use any one of many dash/vent brackets.

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This is awesome. Well done.
 
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