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I'm getting a wobble in the steering wheel under braking but nothing during acceleration. I also got the car off the ground to check if there was any play in the wheels and their solid. Visual inspection showed no signs of any damage either.
 

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I'm getting a wobble in the steering wheel under braking but nothing during acceleration. I also got the car off the ground to check if there was any play in the wheels and their solid. Visual inspection showed no signs of any damage either.
Classic thrust arm bushing wear is vibration under light braking. If the shimmy goes away under medium to heavy braking, 99% thrust arm bushings. Look at threads about using either the heavy duty X5 bushings as replacement or for a real step up (and $$$), Dinan monoballs.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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When I brake relatively hard the wheel makes a single jerking motion. I'm guessing something is worn and the transfer of weight from back to front is felt as a 'bump" through the steering wheel.
 

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When I brake relatively hard the wheel makes a single jerking motion. I'm guessing something is worn and the transfer of weight from back to front is felt as a 'bump" through the steering wheel.
 

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On my E36 when those bushing went the car would dart left and right under regular driving as it tramlined and followed grooves in the concrete and the crown of the road. By the end it was downright dangerous.
 

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On my E36 when those bushing went the car would dart left and right under regular driving as it tramlined and followed grooves in the concrete and the crown of the road. By the end it was downright dangerous.
Had that once on my e34m5. At it's worst I had to really fight to keep it straight!
 

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I have essentially all the above symptoms and its a loud crashy jerking beast sometimes.

SO I went for a Power-flex kit for the front end.

I am yet to install but expect a much smoother and precise feel.

That will be done when the big job of a 27mm front sway bar goes on- not liking prospect of this.

But it will be worth the sweat.
 

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Thread bump :)
Im beginning to think my bushings are near to a total failure ( i have ordered powerflex but they havent arrived)

My symphtoms are the standard wiggle in the steeringwheel at certain speeds. Now the past 5 days, since i got my rear tires replaced.. the car "wanders around" when in higher speeds, it feels like the front end is loose! Nothing when i brake or so except the flimsy response from my steeringwheel..

My question is, when they fail, they fail really fast? It was fine like 2 weeks ago..
 

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If the bushing are bad, you would feel it in all scenarios, especially when going over bumps at slow speeds.
 

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Well i have quite the opposite experience from that, i feel almost nothing when going slow but if i push it hard or fast when turning it feels like the front end is disconnected from the rest and the car almost feels like floating!
 

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What's the condition of the engine mounts.

It could be a combination of few things


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I just did mine and there is a steering wheels shake when you apply brakes which is a symptom of bad TAB


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I know i need to replace my thrust arm bushings, and my car kind of does the same thing. every once and a great while, it will pull real quick to one side, as i begin to apply the brakes going slow. going faster than about 25 mph it doesnt do it, but it will do it once, and once it warms up it goes away... I've also got the tell tale slight steering wheel wobble at about 70-75 mph, which ive attributed to the bushings. does yours get any better after it warms up a bit?

do you happen to have a bad power steering pump or leaking hoses? just throwing that out there, since I have a slightly leaky hose, and mine kind of does the same thing..
 

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Well it does not leak powersteering fluid, except the normal from the top of the container. My power steering is also working in both sport and normal mode (it still feels like floating in both modes and with DSC on/off)

My engine mounts are fine from what i can tell, no clunks or exessive movement when i rev it, my front wheels are nice and snug, no clunking there either. I replaced my tie rod last autumn so that should be fine aswell. And no difference if the car is warm or cold.

The famous wheel wobble starts at 50mph, goes away at 60 and comes back at 80mph, it tried pushing the car hard and noticed that even at lower speed it seems to be "floating" as the front wants to go in the ditch and my rear straight, then you compensate with more steering and the car doesnt seems to know what directions to take..

I will try the "low speed" braking to see if i get a wobble, just need to wait for my bushings to arrive otherwise..just to bad im going on a 600km journey tonight :/
 

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Im in the same boat.... Previous owner says "he did them recently" but under normal braking i get a slight wobble. When im doing 60-80 adn coming off the highway i get a massive shake in the steering wheel under light - medium braking... StopTec told me it could be brake pads that are bad and not seated. Im hoping its the thrust arm bushings... I bought the car from Han because he said "All" PMs were done.... Now im finding out more stuff and it makes me nervous to even own this car! It was a bad investment on my part.. but as also ways... i take the ****tiest cars and bring them back to life
 

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I had a pretty bad shake and it went away 95% with new front tires. Old steering linkage can contribute here as well. Steering Idler arm bushing is cheap/easy to throw at it. As per usual with the car, a sure fire fix is

NEW:

-steering linkage
-tie rods ends
-idler arm bushing
-both control arms (thrust, and front lower)
-tires
-struts (hmm maybe time for coilovers?)
-alignment

With the brakes out of the equation, you only measly couple grand (DIY price) you'll be wobble free in no time!

Oh crap, don't forget power steering hoses, oh and engine mounts....:crying:

(rant over)

Discount tire will road force balance for like $16/tire, not a bad idea for piece of mind with wobbly symptoms.
 

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Hi - i had this when i had new rear tyres - car felt really scary and wandered all over the place - i'd had new thrust arms a month previously. we found a ball joint refresh rear / arb link refresh front/rear really helped. we think the extra grip of the new tyres showed up the wear clearly. 120k miles at the time so well due.

i remember thnking a sway bar link is bust or the subframe is loose it was so bad first drive on new tyres!

Simon
 
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