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Discussion Starter #41
Gasket is apparently 134 1783 6405 and two may be needed, from what is see here it looks like 1, but i ordered 2 just incase. $23ea CAD from stealer.
One metal gasket per side. These metal gaskets are only to avoid the aluminum IA to weld itself to the aluminum head due to corrosion. It is -not- a sealing gasket. The rubber O-rings are the sealing parts. When you insert that part into the heads, use a little vaseline and rotate left and right while inserting. It is easy to destroy this O-ring on the sharp edges of the head.
 

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Hello rt7085 - Could you please let me know how these Airtex IAs are holding up? I appreciate the time and effort you put into this DIY, it is very thorough and looks to be achievable between me and my dad. Sorry to bring this back but I cannot yet send Private Messages.
 

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Fantastic write-up, very well done. Gave me something to do in the garage on a Friday night.

ISTA+ does warn about IA1, but attempting to run the testing procedure that you mentioned a few times, I'm faced with an error that reads "system voltage too low" (attached). This happens when I try and test either one of the IAs. The link to my thread is here:

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60-m5-e61-m5-touring-discussion/599046-how-test-idle-control-valve-throttle-actuators-ista.html

My battery is fine, I'm using a Bimmergeeks K+DCAN cable, and for all other functions of ISTA+, I have no problem.

That being said, have you ever ran in to the same such error that's preventing me from running the test? Is this a common failure? It had been suggested that my cable is bad, but I'm just covering all the bases here.

(I'm sitting in my garage and a scorpion literally fell from the ceiling on to my laptop keyboard - such is life in Arizona this time of year)
 

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Any tips on how to remove these hoses? Struggled for a while with no success and broke a thin zip tie like attachment on one of them.

 

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Squeeze with fingers and they pull off

Not sure how to replace them though as it think the other end is very hard to get too
 

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Any tips on how to remove these hoses? Struggled for a while with no success and broke a thin zip tie like attachment on one of them.

I found access to them a whooooole lot easier once I removed the strut bar. But then I found out that all the holes were stripped, so I'm busy doing four helicoils tonight...
 

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anyone know what are the part no. for the purge valve hoses? i can't find them on realoem
 

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If you're talking about #6 and #7 for that..... good luck. It took me weeks to find one of the two (I forgot which, exactly), ended up finding it through a parts guy in a return bin at some dealership in Concord, CA
 

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If you're talking about #6 and #7 for that..... good luck. It took me weeks to find one of the two (I forgot which, exactly), ended up finding it through a parts guy in a return bin at some dealership in Concord, CA
It's the one op mentioned he had to cut it off to get the idle actuator out, which goes on the idle actuator,I already knew about the two big idle actuator cables from RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog part.no 13907835912 and 13417837712. but op did not mention the part no. of the two small hoses on goes on the idle actuator. I also guess those are #6 and #7 but could not confirm from RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
here's the quote,
The big IA intake hoses that connect to the front of the plenum and the small hoses that connect to the tank vapor purge valves (2x). In my case, that little hose was rotten stuck on the badly corroded IA. I cut it off to make it easy on myself. It has a hose clamp on the purge valve that needs to be pried off and cannot be reused. Make sure you have two new hose clamps available. In my case, I replaced the intake hoses as well as the purge valve hoses with new ones. Good that I did, as this little hose would have stalled progress of a week waiting for them to arrive. Pfff.
 

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I just experienced a failure of my idle actuator (IA). I have decided to replace it myself. To help you guys, I have decided to do a little write up of the phenomenon and how I went about correcting the problem.

The issue manifests itself with a DSC failure message on the center console, along with a start assist failure notice. Obviously, it throws a CEL and puts the engine management software in 5k RPM limit mode. However, the car is still drivable. Data logging confirmed for me that the DME has the throttle actuator (TA) of the failing bank take over, in my case on bank 1. The IA1 on bank 1 is fully off line. (I might post some of the curves I took later.) However, you must understand that the car is still drivable -without risk- of damage to the engine, albeit that is runs ever so slightly rough at low RPM, as many be expected. This may be worse depending on the state of the notorious TAs in your car, which develop 'play' in the gears and will expectedly make the idle that much more rough. Mine are new, so no issue there.

The fault code is CDBD - U1138: Idle actuator CAN message, bank 1. Message Monitoring Idle-Speed Control Valve DPR Overwrite Error (Bank 1).

The issue can obviously be caused by a bad connector on IA1. However, since the CAN bus to IA1, IA2 and SMG in a non-manual car is shared, being still in control of the IA2 and SMG will confirm that the CAN bus and DME are not the culprit. It is very likely we simply have to replace the IA1 because for some reason it fails the pre-drive check where the IA1 is failing its initial response to the DME for some reason. I do not expect cable & connector issues because I was able to test the IAs in ISTA+. I could hear it operate with the engine off (off course). Note that testing forgoes the pre-drive check and thus the DME does not shut down IA1. Yes, it is the DME that DECIDES it does not like the IAs or the TAs. I have proven on my TA software writing experiments that suppossedly "broken" TA does still work. TA and IA are controlled in the same way, but on a different dedicated CAN bus for the TAs.

When I ran IA1 and IA2 tests in ISTA+ it resulted in IA2 not meeting operational test requirements and IA1 does meet requirements (!!). Needless to say, this test is somewhat unreliable. I will proceed and replace both of them as destiny is clear here. Here are some screen captures. Unfortunately, they are rotated and my Adobe Acrobat Full Version refuse to rotate them counter clockwise. So, you will have to put up with that for now until I get smarter.

I found replacement actuators available from Rockauto.com for $440 a piece. They are branded as Airtex/Wells, but I just got them and as was anticipated they are repackaged VDO/Siemens units. Beware that this does NOT come with the required gaskets; It does have the rubber seals installed. So, order them separately from BMW. I also ordered new air inlet hoses as well as vent valve hoses. With 82k mi. on the counter replacing hoses is a good idea, especially in winter. Don't cheap out too much.

I will conduct this repair later this week and report back. Stay tuned. I will provide lots more pictures and details.

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How is your idle actuator from rockauto holding up ? If you still have the car ? Thanks
 

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Does this have anything to do with the idle control unit? It turns the yellow break light on, abs light, and the speedometer goes from the speed im traveling to 0 then back. No codes are stored.
 

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If the speedo is bouncing, I'd suspect the voltage regulator. A misbehaving voltage regulator will cause a lot of weird symptoms based on sensors that otherwise expect to operate on a consistent current and voltage.
 
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