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Discussion Starter #1
I recently have been having some issues with the VANOS on my car. After doing much research on the board, and replacing many of the parts suggested, I am at an absolute loss here and have no idea what to do next.

I have been getting the following codes from the Peak code reader:

  • 43 "Intake camshaft VANOS advance valve, Cyl #1-4"
  • 48 "Intake camshaft VANOS ****** valve, Cyl #1-4"
  • B8 "Intake camshaft VANOS position control, Cyl #1-4"
  • CD "Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #1"
  • CE "Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #2"
  • CF "Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #3"
  • D0 "Misfire during warm-up, Cyl #4"
  • D5 "Misfire during warm-up, multiple cylinders"
  • C4 "Misfire, Cyl #1"
  • C5 "Misfire, Cyl #2"
  • C6 "Misfire, Cyl #3"
  • C7 "Misfire, Cyl #4"
  • CC "Misfire, multiple cylinders"
After my research on the board, I determined this problem is likely to stem from the CPS or the VANOS solenoids; as such, thats where I started.

At this point I have:

  • Replaced both Bank #1 CPS sensors
  • Replaced the VANOS solenoid control board with a new one
  • Replaced all the spark plugs
  • Cleaned the Mass air sensors.
  • Swapped the Ignition Coils to see if I could get the misfire to follow
I am still getting all the same codes and have no idea what to do next. Any suggestions?
 

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So if both CPS and Vanos Solenoid board on Bank 1 have been changed, and you can confirm 100% that the new solenoid board did not break on fitting (like my ones broke on fitting) then I suggest either your Vanos Unit needs a refurbishment (all seals/washers to be changed and cleaning out of any debris, perhaps from the gauze filters on the solenoids) OR there is a wiring loom issue going from DME to either the CPS or Vanos Solenoids....

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...vanos-adjustment-units-refurb-parts-list.html

A great thread by Barnie :

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/128809-good-bad-vanos-long.html

What were your gauze filters like ?

Is the Vanos now suddenly a lot noisier ?

The Vanos Refurb (both banks) should set you back no more than 6 hours labour, and parts should be under $100.

Just some ideas to be honest.

Good Luck, and if you are daunted, don't be...this is nothing major to worry about, but worrysome none the less I agree.
 

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So if both CPS and Vanos Solenoid board on Bank 1 have been changed, and you can confirm 100%
that the new solenoid board did not break on fitting (like my ones broke on fitting) then I suggest either
your Vanos Unit needs a refurbishment (all seals/washers to be changed and cleaning out of any debris,
perhaps from the gauze filters on the solenoids) OR there is a wiring loom issue going from DME to either
the CPS or Vanos Solenoids....

What were your gauze filters like ?

Is the Vanos now suddenly a lot noisier ?

The Vanos Refurb (both banks) should set you back no more than 6 hours labour, and parts should be
under $100.

Just some ideas to be honest.

Good Luck, and if you are daunted, don't be...this is nothing major to worry about, but worrysome none
the less I agree.
+1 - What M5 London said is spot-on.

I would consider swapping the Vanos solenoid boards, with another set of fresh of seals (Use BMW factory
seals only) and see if the faults transfer over to the other side. You have obviously done your research
quite well and haven't missed a beat with what you have done so far.

Regards,
Alan
 

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No offense intended, but everyone knows bank #1 is on driver's right..........Just to state the obvious, sometimes it is easy to overlook.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So if both CPS and Vanos Solenoid board on Bank 1 have been changed, and you can confirm 100% that the new solenoid board did not break on fitting (like my ones broke on fitting) then I suggest either your Vanos Unit needs a refurbishment (all seals/washers to be changed and cleaning out of any debris, perhaps from the gauze filters on the solenoids) OR there is a wiring loom issue going from DME to either the CPS or Vanos Solenoids....

What were your gauze filters like ?

Is the Vanos now suddenly a lot noisier ?

The Vanos Refurb (both banks) should set you back no more than 6 hours labour, and parts should be under $100.

Just some ideas to be honest.

Good Luck, and if you are daunted, don't be...this is nothing major to worry about, but worrysome none the less I agree.
Thanks for the reply...I will pull the board and verify that it did not crack. One thing to note is that when inserting the new board, it went in awfully easy.

The gauze filters on the old board were pretty much gone.
The VANOS was loud when i restarted the car but went back to normal as soon as the oil pressure came back up in the solenoids; im read that this is the norm. Is that correct?

About the VANOS referb...my mechanic seems to be afraid of this job. Do you know if you need any of the special tools required to change the VANOS gears to pull the units.
 

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Thanks for the reply...I will pull the board and verify that it did not crack. One thing to note is that when inserting the new board, it went in awfully easy.

The gauze filters on the old board were pretty much gone.
The VANOS was loud when i restarted the car but went back to normal as soon as the oil pressure came back up in the solenoids; im read that this is the norm. Is that correct?

About the VANOS referb...my mechanic seems to be afraid of this job. Do you know if you need any of the special tools required to change the VANOS gears to pull the units.
Yeah the noise after solenoid swap is horrific but lasts only 3 or 4 seconds. What I mean is there a general bad noise coming from the Vanos Unit, that prompted all of your work ?

Special tools are recommended, but I think it can be done without....but don't quote me though.

What would be ideal is if you can find an indy who does this Vanos refurb job regularly....I can recommend one in the UK :eek:h:.

Time for some New York people to recommend some indies !

Obviously its not confirmed that the above is the problem, but it would be sort of where I would be heading given the info provided by you so far, I reckon.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah the noise after solenoid swap is horrific but lasts only 3 or 4 seconds. What I mean is there a general bad noise coming from the Vanos Unit, that prompted all of your work ?

Special tools are recommended, but I think it can be done without....but don't quote me though.

What would be ideal is if you can find an indy who does this Vanos refurb job regularly....I can recommend one in the UK :eek:h:.

Time for some New York people to recommend some indies !

Obviously its not confirmed that the above is the problem, but it would be sort of where I would be heading given the info provided by you so far, I reckon.

Cheers
What prompted me to do all this work was the SES Light was on and I cannot pass inspection in NYS with the light on. I bought a Peak Code reader, did some research, changed what I could, and am stuck here grrrrrrr. Its looking more and more like I will need to refurb the units themselves. I cant seem to find any DIY for removing them, do you know of any? The schematics make it look not so hard. What would the special tools be used for?
 

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Take the bulb out of the instrument cluster ....................;)

I have the TIS for the job, but haven't figured out how to extract the document from TIS as a file to then email to you or attach here......

Hopefully this will prompt a rapid attachment of the said TIS procedure on here double quick time in a hurry....... !

Anyway several members on here have done this job themselves, so you will definitely get some help.

Once confirmed that the Vanos Adjustment Units are the issue of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Take the bulb out of the instrument cluster ....................;)

I have the TIS for the job, but haven't figured out how to extract the document from TIS as a file to then email to you or attach here......

Hopefully this will prompt a rapid attachment of the said TIS procedure on here double quick time in a hurry....... !

Anyway several members on here have done this job themselves, so you will definitely get some help.

Once confirmed that the Vanos Adjustment Units are the issue of course.
I know right! If only it were that simple!

Im gonna try to get a hold of the TIS as well!

Do you guys know of any symptoms that could confirm that it is the actual units themselves before I start monkeying with this?
 

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I would consider swapping the Vanos solenoid boards, with another set of fresh of seals (Use BMW factory
seals only) and see if the faults transfer over to the other side. You have obviously done your research
quite well and haven't missed a beat with what you have done so far.

Regards,
Alan
Have you tried this yet?
 

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Take the bulb out of the instrument cluster ....................;)

I have the TIS for the job, but haven't figured out how to extract the document from TIS as a file to then email to you or attach here......

Hopefully this will prompt a rapid attachment of the said TIS procedure on here double quick time in a hurry....... !

Anyway several members on here have done this job themselves, so you will definitely get some help.

Once confirmed that the Vanos Adjustment Units are the issue of course.
1 - vanos install
2 - solenoid install
3 - check timing
4 - cps exzhaust
5 - CPS intake

1- http://www.drvanos.com/docs/e39m5.pdf

2- http://www.drvanos.com/docs/m5solenoid.pdf

3- http://www.drvanos.com/docs/M5_check_timing.pdf

4- http://www.drvanos.com/docs/m5_exhaust _cps.pdf

5- http://www.drvanos.com/docs/m5_intake _cps.pdf
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Have you tried this yet?
I have not tried swapping the boards yet, that's going to be next on the list I think; i will admin though, it seems trivial because I replaced the old board with a brand new one after I replaced the CPS's. I will try swapping it out though, I'm desperate here lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks for the instructions.

Does anyone know if you need to remove the spline gears?

vantaam5's DIY (http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/163305-vanos-rebuild-diy-pics.html) does not seem to show the need to do this.
 

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I have not tried swapping the boards yet, that's going to be next on the list I think; i will admin
though, it seems trivial because I replaced the old board with a brand new one after I replaced the CPS's. I will try swapping
it out though, I'm desperate here lol.
Easily done, only cost is the seals and it will provide certainty as to whether it's solenoid related. Out of the box, component
failures occur more often than may be realized.

Good luck,
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Easily done, only cost is the seals and it will provide certainty as to whether it's solenoid related. Out of the box, component
failures occur more often than may be realized.

Good luck,
Alan
That's terrible that that's true. Esp when your paying 500 + for the parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
You see in my write up that you can disconnect them....
Yes, i see that. I was just asking because the TIS instructions seem to show them coming out. I like your way better :biggrinbounce:

Also in your thread

you need the special tool afterwards to reset the cams, right? looks mighty impressive...
Is that true?

Also, I see in your post that you were unable to edit the disassemble instructions due to a board time restriction. Did you ever post that up?
 

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Will update the stuff over the weekend!

Special tools are a bit modified 27mm open end spanner,4 M8 bolts and a 8.5mm drill....:biggrin:
 
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