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1,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To sell or not to sell my BEAST:nono:

Still in LIKE it, but Not Loving IT like before, I guess got used to IT, but sometimes even I hated, when clutch spins or it goes into "Falsesafe mode"...

I want NEW car and M5 is not too fast me anymore...

Right now it seems that the car is running FINE...But WHAT will brake down NEXT...

I havent had too many probs with that car, over almost 2 years I've changed MAFS, throlte bodies, 3 front discs with pads (2 were under warranty), 1 clutch (no flywheel) and NEW PS2...

My engine seems to be OK (0 in all 8 cylinders) but I worry what if next my VANOS goes down :eek: ...Then it would SUCK big time....The dealer did VANOS check they said it's OK...

Do VANOS go bad in all M5's over the TIME???

My car now has 76k (47k miles) on the clock...

Right now problem only problem, is when I launch agrresively with some tyres spining, my clutch starts to slip again hmmm ( may be I should have changed the flywheel as wheel)...

The sale price of my Beast is around 40-42k...And it difficult to sale that kind of car here..

So if sale it, I want something fast as well, I can add 10k and get an slightly used E39 2001-2002 M5 or RS6....

Or I should keep my M5 and drive it, but then I need to get a good clutch because stock M5 clutch cant handle the abuse....or save more CASH and get used for 60k E55K...and then in 2008 get E60 M5, since our custom duties are custom duties are Low for 3 year old cars...

cherrsagai :crying2:

Moderator Emeritus
2,977 Posts
It is impossible to advice on if you should keep the car or sell it. Perhaps what you need is the friendship of a really tallented mechanic. A great mechanic makes owning an M5 more enjoyable.

If you want zero troubles, you probably have to buy a japanese car with a small engine. You have to compare the M5 to other cars in its league.

These are high maintenance cars, but rather economical if you compare with most other cars of similair performance.

If the car goes into failsafe (limp-home) mode, something is wrong. Has it gone into failsafe-mode after you had new MAFs installed?

About the clutch: to make the clutch last, always have your foot completely off the clutch pedal before goving throttle.

When the clutch plates are changed it is very important to run-in the clutch carefully. Basically to do a few smooth and soft starts form standstill at rather low RPM on an uphill road, then drive the car very carefully for the first 1000 gearshifts. Either go for a nice one hour cruise and keep shifting gears every few seconds, or just drive carefully for the first 500 km. Then the clutch plate is ready for action!

If the clutch in your car has slipped, it can often become much better if you avoid stressing it for 500 km. The damaged surface can wear off during that time, and the clutchplate will be fresh.

Every time the clutch slips under load the clutch-liner gets very hot. The heat lowers the friction of the clutch-liner, and slip will be worse. However if you drive without stressing the clutch for a while the heat-damaged ("glazed") surface will wear off, and the liner will be normal again. This only works if just a very thin layer of the liner has been overheated. If the damage is extensive and deep, you need to get a new clutch-liner and to run it in carefully.

BTW, what was wrong with the throttle bodies?


1,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Man I'm happy with a car, just want someting NEW...I have good mechanics, they sort every thing out for ME...

We test everything before we chnage parts...

What MAFS were faulty MY beast went in "failsafe mode"...

M5 has grap clutch and if you drag race a lot, it will ware off quickly...New UCC clutch is over 3g's...Sound like too much for the clutch, considering that stock one costs around $1500 *flywheel is expensive"...

I had chnaged one electronic throtle body 2 and potentiometer of throtle body 1...everything around $500...

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