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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
My driver's side window would jam itself closed if I wound it all the way up to the top. When that happens, pressing on the down button only results in the immediate "click" of the "safety breaker" in the window control box. (I figured that's what it is as its a different, much softer click sound when the window motor is activated). There were a few times where I managed to get the window down (out of sheer luck). But the moment it close it back up tightly, it jams itself there and refuses to budge an inch.

Checking online and seeing that all fixes on the window would require it lowered down or dismantling the entire regulator and motor, I decided to try my luck and pry the window free first.
After dismantling the door panels and pulling aside the vapor barrier, I reached from underneath and "wrestled" with the regulator's clamps on the glass to try and free it. After a little bit of nudging here and there, I got the window free and it operated smoothly without any hint of problems with the motor. It's smooth fast and nothing out of the ordinary. Only when I close it shut again, then I would have to go underneath and "wrestle" about inside my door.

Thus my suspicions rests upon an improperly positioned glass that was causing the jam. After loosening, re-positioning and re-tightening the clamps a couple of times, I couldn't find the correct position to keep the window from jamming itself closed. In the end, I went against common instinct and loosened the clamps and kept them loose to allow the window to move about freely! So now my window is just sitting in its regulator clamps but it stopped the window from jamming closed (so far).

Obviously this is not a proper or complete fix and there is the risk of the glass dropping out of the clamps and scratching itself or shattering in the process. However there is no mention anywhere online of a clear proper method to position and align the window to its clamps. Has anyone experienced this before or know a solution to my problem? Thanks.
 

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think about what you just asked and the answer will come to you
 

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You need a new regulator by the sound of your problem description. There is only one correct location for the regulator to clamp onto the window glass.

What's probably happened is the regulator cable has changed length, introducing interference between the clamps and the glass even though they are properly located.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
You need a new regulator by the sound of your problem description. There is only one correct location for the regulator to clamp onto the window glass.

What's probably happened is the regulator cable has changed length, introducing interference between the clamps and the glass even though they are properly located.
Thanks, Zed. Could you describe how can the regulator cable changed length? I'm also unsure how there can the glass can be positioned in one single location as I've noticed that I still can slide the glass forwards and backwards along the door with no clear notch or marker where it supposed to sit.

I've tried positioning the window by rolilng all the way up but a last quarter of an inch before closing and then visibly checking the distance of the glass from the sill is consistent back to front before lowering and tightening the clamps. No success.
 

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Thanks, Zed. Could you describe how can the regulator cable changed length? I'm also unsure how there can the glass can be positioned in one single location as I've noticed that I still can slide the glass forwards and backwards along the door with no clear notch or marker where it supposed to sit.

I've tried positioning the window by rolilng all the way up but a last quarter of an inch before closing and then visibly checking the distance of the glass from the sill is consistent back to front before lowering and tightening the clamps. No success.
I've seen two regulators fail. The first one shrunk in length by bunching on itself. The second lost tension over time (creep-related failure). The cause for failure is debatable, but the net effect is that the window won't slide up and down the way it should.

I, like you, finicked around with the window position in the clamps before giving up and replacing the whole regulator assembly. With the new regulator, things slotted in without any problem, following more or less what you did to correctly seat the window in the clamps.

Having gone through two non-OEM regulators (Febi), I will be going OEM for my next replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Resolved!!! (sort of)

I've finally resolved my jammed regulator issue ... Sort of ...

Doing some CSI wori, I analyzed the regulator's clamps, dislodged rubber padding in its grips, the plastic guide's position and the dirt markings on the glass itself, I came to a conclusion that if the regulator's clamps were to have momentarily lost grip of the glass because someone with forearms the size of Dallas was resting on the glass, the only way the glass would have moved was downwards, putting pressure on the plastic guides that doesn't seem to have been designed to handle anything more than a hand pushing at it. So I concluded that if the front plastic guide was out of position, the only direction back to its original position was up.
So I pushed the guide up about 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch up from its absolute bottom position. Positioned the window, raised the window to about 1/8 of an inch from the top to triple check it is in line with the top of the door sill and tighten all the clamps. Voila, it doesn't jam anymore.

It still jams once in a blue moon but it is easily rectified by just pushing the up button to momentarily push the window up against the sill and loosen itself and the window is immediately free and rolls down after that without any problem. This would mean I haven't gotten the position right yet, but it's adjustment would have to wait for another day when I would have another reason to rip apart my door panels and vapour seals again.
 

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Coming back to this older post.

I ignored a rattling driver's window for too long and it just came apart on me last night. I pulled the door apart and found the glass completely dislodged from the clamps. I got it all back together and was testing it when I noticed the front cable was jumping in and out of the guide midway up. Upon further inspection, I noticed the cable is off of the front bottom pulley. Tried wrestling it back on to no avail.

Any tips on loosening the cable so I can get it back on the pulleys? I'm hoping not to have to replace the whole assembly.

Also, I have seen on other posts that I need to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and removing the side airbag. It looks like I'll need to do that to get better access to the regulator. Can I reconnect the battery with the airbag removed to test the window without triggering a service light?
 

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Coming back to this older post.

I ignored a rattling driver's window for too long and it just came apart on me last night. I pulled the door apart and found the glass completely dislodged from the clamps. I got it all back together and was testing it when I noticed the front cable was jumping in and out of the guide midway up. Upon further inspection, I noticed the cable is off of the front bottom pulley. Tried wrestling it back on to no avail.

Any tips on loosening the cable so I can get it back on the pulleys? I'm hoping not to have to replace the whole assembly.

Also, I have seen on other posts that I need to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and removing the side airbag. It looks like I'll need to do that to get better access to the regulator. Can I reconnect the battery with the airbag removed to test the window without triggering a service light?
It's hard to tell from the picture if there is any slack in the cable. My guess is that the cable jumped the pulley because it shrank in length. If this is the case it is extremely unlikely that the cable can be wrestled onto the pulley without removing the regulator.

I'd recommend against disconnecting the airbag even with the battery disconnected. Just follow the steps in my window regulator DIY and you should be fine. In there, you will see that I only undid the airbag bolts to remove the weatherproof barrier, after which I loosely retightened the airbag back in its place for regulator replacement and testing.
 

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Awesome video..thanks! Was hoping to avoid taking the whole regulator out but heck it's only a few extra bolts to undo. Hopefully I can string the cable back onto the pulley once it is out but if I have to buy a new regulator assembly, so be it! I think it jumped in the first place because the bolt holding it onto the mount was halfway out.

BTW, I dig the blue inserts on your ride. I haven't seen that color scheme before. Mine are red on brushed metal.
 
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