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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How would I tell if my clutch needs replacement? What signs do I need to look for?

Also what is the average cost I can expect to pay for parts/labor for replacing it? (stock/OEM parts)..

Thanks!
 

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I believe it will start slipping, I dont know if their is any other signs, very well be , but I am a novice, I am sure others will chime in with more technical advice, Josh
 

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Yes, it will start slipping but, mine slips when it's hot and it has done that for about 10,000 miles.

Once it cools down, it's fine.

I have had one clutch replaced at 59,000 miles and am now at almost 100,000 miles now so obviously, I don't track or abuse the car.

When I KNEW I had to have mine replaced was when at about 60MPH, it wouldn't go and started slipping dramatically.

About $1500 to replace an OEM clutch - run a search and you'll find about a thousand threads on clutch options from different companies including UUC and SPEC.

Basically, if you don't beat the car or track it, the OEM clutch seems to be OK - not great and if you do, UUC and SPEC have different versions and options based on your driving habits and your wallet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I never track my car and don't drive very hard.

As for slipping, I can still romp on in 2nd and 3rd all the way up to redline on the freeway on ramp with no slip at all. I can punch it at 60 mph and it doesn't slip there either.

I have to drive to Yosemite in 2 weeks, and I'm kind of scared, as I don't want the clutch to go while I'm driving there or back. I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get back.
 

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Hobbez said:
I never track my car and don't drive very hard.

As for slipping, I can still romp on in 2nd and 3rd all the way up to redline on the freeway on ramp with no slip at all. I can punch it at 60 mph and it doesn't slip there either.

I have to drive to Yosemite in 2 weeks, and I'm kind of scared, as I don't want the clutch to go while I'm driving there or back. I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get back.
Unless you do something REALLY stupid--such as the guy in the camaro who had his clutch engaged to point of slip and was revving the car like mad (thinking he was doing a burnout) and probably melted his clutch to his flywheel judging by the HUGE cloud of smoke coming from the front of his car--then your clutch isn't just going to go entirely to the point that you can't drive the car. When it starts to slip, you just need to be more careful. People drive on slipping clutches for thousands of miles. They just tend to need to be less agressive with their high RPM driving/shifting. Eventually they just slip so much you get no hookup, but that's not going to happen all of a sudden if your clutch has no signs of slip right now.
 

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Will it make a difference in clutch life, if you use good synthetic clutch/brake fluid like Motul RBF600 or ATE Super Blue?
 

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Hobbez said:
I never track my car and don't drive very hard.

As for slipping, I can still romp on in 2nd and 3rd all the way up to redline on the freeway on ramp with no slip at all. I can punch it at 60 mph and it doesn't slip there either.

I have to drive to Yosemite in 2 weeks, and I'm kind of scared, as I don't want the clutch to go while I'm driving there or back. I'd prefer to deal with the replacement when I get back.
What exactly is clutch slip? And how do I know when my clutch is slipping?
 

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greer said:
What exactly is clutch slip? And how do I know when my clutch is slipping?
Clutch slip is basically when u floor the car when ur moving and rev goes up but the car doesnt seem to be pulling.
 

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hadokenny said:
Clutch slip is basically when u floor the car when ur moving and rev goes up but the car doesnt seem to be pulling.

Does this have to be on a hill? or could it also be on the highwaY?
 

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greer said:
Does this have to be on a hill? or could it also be on the highwaY?
It could happen at any point, highway, uphill, downhill if you're WOT. Basically, any time that you apply throttle to or close to WOT, and your revs go to redline and your either staying the same speed or losing speed. At this point, your clutch material is either too hot, or not sufficient material left to engage the flywheel to drive the rear wheels, so it just spins up to high RPM basically "sliding" along the surface of your flywheel with the same clamping force as if it were attempting to lock in. Obviously clamping down at this force and going at 6k RPM along the surface of the flywheel just heats it up further, if it's not brought down to lower RPM's quickly and properly mated with the flywheel, it will continue to heat up as it slips more and more and eventually it will melt.

Sean
 

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greer said:
Does this have to be on a hill? or could it also be on the highwaY?
U might be able to feel the symptoms more on a hill, but it can also happen on the highway as well. It all depends on how beat up ur clutch is
 

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hadokenny said:
U might be able to feel the symptoms more on a hill, but it can also happen on the highway as well. It all depends on how beat up ur clutch is
Hey just up the road from me, welcome to the board!

you should check out the MD/DC/VA meet over at mr_bock's in a few weeks in the meets section of the forum, good chance to get the beast out and see the local are people.

Sorry to hijack

Correct, the harder your clutch would normally have to work to engage your drivetrain, the more noticeable it will be (hills, high RPM hard shift primarily). Easy way of telling what shape your clutch is in, do a hard shift to WOT at close to redline on the upshift and go back on WOT. Granted, this isn't the healthiest thing in the world for your clutch, but it will definately let you know if you are showing any symptoms!

:cheers:

Sean
 

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Put the car in 5th gear and engage the clutch slowly while slow rev and if it dies quickly your clutch is likely still good. When I speed shift I can feel slippage but it quickly engages if I back off on the throtle. Will
 

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HAHA.

I had this SAME newb question a few months back...had been years since I had 6sp.

Basically accelerate HARD. Don't have to break tires loose during shift, but shift firmly and quickly.

If the rpms seem to climb faster than the car is accellerating...your clutch is slipping.

Good luck.

Ryan
 

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You will probably notice it first when asking torque.Go full on the throttle from low rpm's(2000) in 4 or 5th gear,then you should feel the slip coming in.
 

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I just did the Stage III upgrade. My clutch was glazed and burnt and slipped but had a lot of life left on it.

Kind of sucks since I am at 51k miles but it slipped all the time at WOT and high RPM's.
 

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I always thought that the standard test for clutch slip was to start the engine and ensure that the handbrake (parking brake) is on. Put your foot on the clutch pedal. Put a few revs (say 2000-3000) on and then take your foot off the clutch pedal.
  • If the engine keeps running (and the revs increase), then the clutch is slipping.
  • If the car moves, then the handbrake needs adjusting.
  • If the engine stalls, then everything is OK.
 

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if your not sure take it by the dealer let them check it...simple and no worrys.
 

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Hobbez said:
How would I tell if my clutch needs replacement? What signs do I need to look for?

Also what is the average cost I can expect to pay for parts/labor for replacing it? (stock/OEM parts)..

Thanks!
There are a LOAD of threads on this, but Greg has posted his test a few times. You can search for it but it involves putting the car in third or fourth gear, stabilizing at a certain road or engine speed and then tromping on the accelerator. If the tach needle and engine speed go up together you're good to go.

Only problem is, I can't seem to remember if it's 3rd @ 4000RPM or 4th @ 3000RPM or 3rd @ 40MPH or 4th @30 MPH or something in between. :)

=NLK=
 
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