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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Thought I would write this DIY as there seemed to be some interest in my other thread regarding the BMW performance brake kit.

So, here we go, please bear in mind that this is being completed on a UK RHD car, you don't need to do the brake lines, but I did so they are included.

Items Required-
BMW Performance Brake Kit 34110444738
Adaptor Brackets (Raikku "VantaamM5" supplied mine- cheers Raikku)
Brake Fluid 1 Litre (I used AP Formula DOT5.1)
2off 8mm x 17mm washers, fairly thin

I also fitted "HEL Racing" Stainless steel braided brake lines, but these are not essential. Do not order from Thorney Motorsport BTW, long story story short, it was a complete nightmare to get these lines.

Here's a picture of the stock wheel/brake setup



Jack up the car (all four wheels for me, as I was doing a fluid and line change front and back), remove your right hand cabin filter box to access the brake fluid reservoir



The standard brakes in all their glory, you'll notice that the three locating pins are not present on my hub face, that's because in a previous maintenance activity I had the hub completely stripped down, so I took the opportunity to punch them out from the back of the hub. You can do this too if you wish, or some people drill the heads off from the disc side. It doesn't matter, they are not required, the centre bore of the BMW performance brake kit matches the M5 hub's perfectly.



Remove the standard disc, hub locating pins (Mentioned earlier), calliper, calliper mounting bracket, and brake line, leaving you with this.
*Top Tip* Loosen the disc screws with the calliper still attached, then you can wedge a screwdriver in the disc to prevent movement of the disc whilst you loosen those bolts, or an assistant can hold the brake disc on the pedal.



Remove the 4off 10mm bolts holding the disc shield so that you can pull it away from the hub, and trim the shield as shown. The shield is aluminium so the grinder will not have any hassle getting through it, no sparks either, but you will get chips flying off so wear protection.



If your changing the brake lines, now is a good time to do it as there is allot of space.



Next up, bolt up your mounting brackets, using the original calliper mounting bolts



Now you need to remove the cast alloy mounting bracket supplied with your callipers, undo the 2off 10mm hex screws to release the mounting bracket. These screws were TIGHT on mine, so I had a 10mm hex socket on a breaker bar to release them.




Mount your disk to the hub, originally I wanted to use the disc screws from the E91, so I ordered them (34211161806) but they do not work, they have a collar on them which is too thick to grip the BMW performance disc. So I used the original E39 one, with a 8mm X 17mm washer to centre it in the hole on the disc. Make sure that all the wheel stud holes are in the centre of the disc holes, and tighten up the disc retaining screw with the washer. Make sure you tighten it up enough so its flush or just below the disc surface, on mine this caused a slight bending of the washer, but nothing serious.



Now the fun bit, attach the brake line to the calliper, and then bolt up the calliper to the mounting bracket using the supplied 10mm hex screws you removed from the other mounting bracket. A 14mm brake pipe spanner helps here, and a 11mm one wouldn't hurt either.



Repeat on the passenger side, which is the same aside from a brake pad wear sensor. The one supplied with the BMW performance brake kit doesn't fit the E39 M5 very well, so I retained the original one. Simply un-clip it from the original calliper/pad, and clip it in the recess on the new calliper/pad, run the cable up to the bleed nipple and place the rubber retainer over the nipple for security, and then run it through the shock securing bracket and plug it into the mounting box as it was originally.





Bleed up the callipers, I did it in the following order (Passenger Rear, Drivers Rear, Passenger Front, Drivers Front), then put your wheels on, drop it back down, top up the fluid, tighten the wheel bolts, put the cabin filter housing back in and take for a gentle test drive.



And everybody likes comparison photos, so here's two, old vs new disc and pads.




Hope that helps everybody whose considering this kit


Matt
 

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Awesome..
Where did you buy the performance brake kit from?
Dealer?
 

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Good writeup, driving impression??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep, dealer, or I believe in the states you can get it from ECS tuning

Driving impression, I have barely done any miles in it so far, just to check its not leaking and working as expected. But so far, no pad noise, or judder, fells very much like OEM brakes (which is expected, as I guess its a OEM compound pad in there)

Still need bedding in, will report back after some use

Thanks

Matt
 

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Yep, dealer, or I believe in the states you can get it from ECS tuning

Driving impression, I have barely done any miles in it so far, just to check its not leaking and working as expected. But so far, no pad noise, or judder, fells very much like OEM brakes (which is expected, as I guess its a OEM compound pad in there)

Still need bedding in, will report back after some use

Thanks

Matt
Cool pretty good price too..
Are you going to do the rears also?
The only thing I don't like are the drilled holes..

Might have to talk to Raikku about some brackets!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nope, not looking to do the rears, there was some discussion on them and it was discussed that the rear kit wasn't really an upgrade over standard so i decided to keep stock at the back

Thanks

Matt
 

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Great DIY. Very interested in your impressions once they're properly burnished.
 

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i see that the m5 guys like to punch out the centering pins on the hub. Are you aware that the 540 uses that same exact part with the sole difference being no centering pins?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For the guys asking how the kit performs, this has been well documented on the forum before, here's the main thread about them

Topaz, what do you mean the 540 has the part without the pins, the hub?

Thanks

Matt
 

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I think he's referring to those 2 blunt protrusions on the hub flange that matches up with the recess on the rotors (in addition to the rotor retaining screws). But I'm not sure that's the only difference, as I recall reading somewhere the integrated wheel bearing of the M5 can withstand more load.
 

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When i did my front wheel bearings i was told the m5 is identical except it has the hub face pins that the 540 doesnt. What do the pins do anyway?
 

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I know I'm being lazy by not reading through the other giant thread but in short, is this performance brake upgrade much cheaper then any of the other aftermarket options (ie Stoptech, Brembo, etc..)??
 

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The rotor doesn't look much bigger then the factory pieces at all & I'm not too wild about the color used on the caliper. But, the units are made by Brembo & it sounds like they are a very rigid 6-piston unit. For that price I may have to get a set. SO the only thing we need to add to the kid from ECS Tuning is the mounting bracket & a few additional bolts... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If you look into it, the discs are thinner and slightly smaller (i think!) diameter than the M5's, if the colour bothers you, you can use 1 series ones that are grey, but buying it all seperately is more expensive. Look into the big thread for discussion, this is just how to fit it if you decide to go down this route.

The main benefits of this kit is heat discipation from the dramatically larger pad area, and its price.

Yes, as i've listed, the kit, the brackets, some washers, and some brake fluid to fit to an M5.

Matt
 

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Great write-up. Thanks for posting. Whenever i read some great DIY it always makes me want to do it too. My wallet is not happy hiha
 
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