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Discussion Starter #1
Been trying to pulse all the solenoids many times over to get them clear/clean, all except one shows the movement in the top hole, it clicks but that's it.
It's got some of the crap filter hair caught in there.
I've soaked them in brake cleaner pulsed then in the cleaner & with air going in to help move it but nothing is working.
Got any ideas on the stubborn bastard?
I'm screwed if this thing wont clear.

#5-8 bank solenoid test. - YouTube

Apples
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Think your right.
Is there a way to buy just 1?
 

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Dr. Vanos will do it for $400:

Solenoid Testing and Repair

Having solenoid issues? Send us your solenoid board and we can test and replace individual solenoids with new replacements saving you the cost of a full replacement pack. Email us for more information.
Price: $400.00 per individual solenoid
 

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You could check with Dr. Vanos about sourcing a single solenoid. I see they list a replacement solenoid on their website, but it may be for cars with a single vanos. The price is quite reasonable, however, and I'd guess if there is anyone in the states who can source you a single solenoid it would be them.
 

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Thanks for the video. It's DIY sticky worthy.

Presuming you've already tried tweezing/vacuuming/fluid-pressure , I'll throw a batty (read: potentially bad) idea out:
Have you tested the filter material you've already extracted for flammability, and how it breaks down?

Please note that I have no experience with these solenoids.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yep I think Drvanos is going to be the way as he does sell individual noids that then need to be soldered in by customer.
Tried everything to get it free.
Not sure if it open or closed.
Could try and burn it out, as I'm running out of options.
If you want to DIY the vid then please do..
 

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You need to use the advantage of the 9v and hold the noid open. If you use higher volts and amps you fry the noids coil. If you have some alligator clip put them on the 9v source. Or find another way to connect the 9v to give constant power.
That is a nasty one but the fiber will come out. Open the noid and with small tweezers grab hold of the ends and pull. Even if all you do is break it up the compressed air should have an easier time knocking it out.
Don't forget after you grind down the tip of your wife's tweezers you need to do something nice for her. Once you pull what you can out the tip think about how that got in there and do the opposite. It went in thru the side so will likely come out the side if you blast compressed air in the tip, as long as you have remove as much from the tip as you can. A rubber tip on the air really helps. The other thing that helps is soaking in kerosene but a lube should work also. You have it clean from the Brake clean, so add some oil now to lube the fibers up to make it more likely they will slide out.
As a last resort pull the noid from the board and flip it tip up add a few drops of acid to try and break down the plastic filter screen. Any of the delime produces like CLR or lime away are acids. Leave it for an hour or so and go back at it, after you have completely rinsed it with water.
Another trick to hold it open for extended work, is open it with power then slide a fine sewing needle thru the tip and lodge it open.
 

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Yep I think Drvanos is going to be the way as he does sell individual noids that then need to be soldered in by customer.
Tried everything to get it free.
Not sure if it open or closed.
Could try and burn it out, as I'm running out of options.
If you want to DIY the vid then please do..


I would not go that route as the I picked up a brand new board for $560. You pay 160 more and you have 3 solenoids left over if something breaks. Paying drvanos 400 to fix one solenoid does not seem economical.
 

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I would not go that route as the I picked up a brand new board for $560.
Was that eons ago as the new list price is north of 1k per board.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Interesting......
What place sells boards for that price?
 

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Maybe less than a year ago? Give Vincent a call at bimmerzone, thats where i got mine from.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got a new set of rings and gasket from my BMW parts guy (great price)
Got the single solenoid from DrVanos overnighted for $300 + $85 shipping.
It wasn't a new one, and took a couple of mins to take out and re solder the working one back in.
Decided to change out the coolant as well and this was helpful when getting to torquing the solenoid cover on the drivers side, as I disconnected the radiator hose for more room for the bolts.
Got it all back together and filled up.
She started with very little nose, fluids good, checked for codes after warming it up fully and nothing showed.
So far so good.

Now I can get a sold drive in next week

Apples
 

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Got a new set of rings and gasket from my BMW parts guy (great price)
Got the single solenoid from DrVanos overnighted for $300 + $85 shipping.
It wasn't a new one, and took a couple of mins to take out and re solder the working one back in.
Decided to change out the coolant as well and this was helpful when getting to torquing the solenoid cover on the drivers side, as I disconnected the radiator hose for more room for the bolts.
Got it all back together and filled up.
She started with very little nose, fluids good, checked for codes after warming it up fully and nothing showed.
So far so good.

Now I can get a sold drive in next week

Apples
Good to hear Dr Vanos was able to help you out. Good luck at Hilton Head next weekend and enjoy the drive up there!
 

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Might be worth messing with that old solenoid now a bit more (now that you can do so at your leisure) to see if you can get it working. Since the de-energized state is closed (as far as the center hole is concerned) maybe even trying to poke something in there while energizing it would free it up (I know this is drastic, but what do you have to lose at this point). It might just take a quick tap to free it up. Of course finding something that tiny that will take a tap could be tough too...again can't remember if that hole diameter is just too small.
 

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Now that you're up and running it would be interesting to try the acid or flame methods of removing it. :)


Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
 

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I know it's an old topic, but found it through search...

I currently have a Vanos (related) problem on my (Euro) M3 3.2.

DIS showed a 162 camshaft synchronisation problem. After running the Vanos test in DIS, it came up with the intake cam not reach end positions.

As I wanted to fit new o-rings this years anyways, I pulled the intake solenoids (it was bone dry behind the cover).

I can hear them all clicking using DIS, but found out on this board that clicking alone doesn't mean anything. So this topic is really interesting.

I am not totally sure. I watched the video posted by the OP, but I couldn't really make up if you have to psychically see something move when a solenoid is activated. It looks like so, but not 100% sure.

When I activated mine, there were drops of oil "shooting" out, but I don't see anything physically move.

So should I be able to see the (very) small thing inside the top hole move up and down?

P.S. I already pulled off these laughable filter rings. Looks like one was also missing a piece of filter. Which could be either inside the 'noid or inside my Vanos.
 

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Old post.
 
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