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How to access starter to measure current draw? (A0C1 CAS Output, terminal 50 )

7K views 36 replies 5 participants last post by  SunglassesGuy 
I chased this code and no crank condition on my 6MT for a while, it was the starter. Replaced it from the top, not a terrible job. Fine ever since, it’s been over a year.
 
I saw a DIY on this, apparently there are 2 methods, one actually remove the entire starter, and one, leave housing in place and replace guts. Which did you do? Also, starter was supposedly replaced about 2 years ago, just before I bought car. I have no documentation to prove tho.
I left the housing and replaced the guts. 2 year old starter should be fine though… interesting. Good luck with the diagnosis
 
any major difficulties that you recall as you replaced the guts?
The hardest part I remember is getting the torx screws on the back of the housing out. You’ve got the firewall a few inches away, you’re blind, and there’s some metal hardlines back there too that get in the way. There may be something I was missing to make it easier, not sure. But I ended up using a torx head Allen-key style tool to slowly unscrew them. Real pain in the *** considering the space and vision limitations. I wouldn’t be surprised if there was something I missed to make it easier though. The rest wasn’t that bad, just unplug everything and move that wiring jacket that runs over the valley out of the way. Plenty of space to pull the old guts out and put the new ones in.

Edit: both TA’s and both IA’s have to be removed to make enough space. You can choose at this time to replace the IA gaskets (it’s as good a time as any to do it). I didn’t, hadn’t thought ahead far enough to order them. I’m still doing fine reusing the old ones, they’re metal like exhaust gaskets.
 
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