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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I picked up my beast almost 45 days ago from Hackensack, NJ.

I had the PPI done at a local and seemingly well reputed BMW Indy (Motor Works west). They are an authorized Dinan shop and were recommended by other BMW owners.

After the PPI I was told that (among a couple of other un related things) the rear differential seals were "starting to weep" to use their exact words. The person doing the PPI (chris) told me that the seals were "barely beginning to weep" and "there was no oil drip" that they could see.

I made the deal for the car based on the PPI, and picked the car up a few days later. I did look under the car before delivery and did see signs of weeping seal but since the car was not on a lift I couldn't see everything.

I am now seeing 1-2 drops (if left parked for 2-3 days), so I decided to get under the car and take some pictures.
I might be over reacting but the "weep" seems to be worse than I had imagined.

The car has 65K miles.

1- How bad does it look?

2- Should I stop driving the car immediately?

3- How does Guibo and other things look? (from what you can see)









 

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Can you DIY? If so drain the fluid and replace the seals, or take the diff out and bring it to a shop and have them install the seals. You can keep driving it, just make sure that your fluid is topped up so that you dont seize the diff.
 

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Its hard to see where the leak originates from your pictures. Is it the drain plug or the axle seals? Either way no its not bad enough for you to stop using the car. I would try and take care of it in the next couple months or wait until it get warm and diy.
Also I can not see the "guibo" in your pictures, i think you have it confused. The guibo is located on the tranny end not the diff.
 

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Guibo is at the clutch-end of the driveshaft (i.e. not pictured). Your leak appears to be from a side- not input-seal (common problem). A weepy one is barely visible in the 3rd shot, but the source is mostly unclear in your other pictures.

If you are comfortable checking the diff fill level, do so. Other people have posted pictures of weepy seals here; my guess is that your status is not the worst.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guibo is at the clutch-end of the driveshaft (i.e. not pictured). Your leak appears to be from a side- not input-seal (common problem). A weepy one is barely visible in the 3rd shot, but the source is mostly unclear in your other pictures.

If you are comfortable checking the diff fill level, do so. Other people have posted pictures of weepy seals here; my guess is that your status is not the worst.
Thank you for clearing that up, I certainly have not seen the Guibo myself.

Also, I do not know how to check the differential fluid level but I can search.

I was contemplating cleaning the mess but I think I am going to leave it be so the technician can see where the leak is from (I have never tackled a diff seal DIY and do not feel 100% comfortable doing it myself, I will read up on the DIY and my confidence level may rise)
 

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I'd say a weeping seal is not a reason to park the car. A badly leaking one is another story. One or two drops over 3 days is not a big deal. You want to see weeping seals, buy an older 911.

If I were going to fix it soon, I'd just check the level and top it off. There's no telling what the level is if it wasn't checked during the PPI. If I were not going to fix it soon, I'd go ahead and change the fluid since you don't know when the last time that was done.
 

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Thank you for clearing that up, I certainly have not seen the Guibo myself.

Also, I do not know how to check the differential fluid level but I can search.

I was contemplating cleaning the mess but I think I am going to leave it be so the technician can see where the leak is from (I have never tackled a diff seal DIY and do not feel 100% comfortable doing it myself, I will read up on the DIY and my confidence level may rise)
Ask the dealers advise and say your surprised they noted this and were happy to let it go etc,etc!!
 

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Thank you for clearing that up, I certainly have not seen the Guibo myself.

Also, I do not know how to check the differential fluid level but I can search.

I was contemplating cleaning the mess but I think I am going to leave it be so the technician can see where the leak is from (I have never tackled a diff seal DIY and do not feel 100% comfortable doing it myself, I will read up on the DIY and my confidence level may rise)
no harm in cleaning it, it will be quite the opposite (leak is easier to find)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Point taken about cleaning.

I have searched but I cannot find anything regarding checking differential oil level.

Does anyone know how ot check different oil level?
 

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Point taken about cleaning.

I have searched but I cannot find anything regarding checking differential oil level.

Does anyone know how ot check different oil level?
Its quite simple, you fill the diff until fluid begins to pour out the fill hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have decided to drain/replace diff oil for now and will get the seals done in spring.

Couple of questions:

- I can only get my hands on Royal Purple 75W90, Is that good enough differential oil for now?

2- I only have Rhino ramps, is diff oil drain/refill possible if using a hand pump BUT on rhino ramps?
 

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I have decided to drain/replace diff oil for now and will get the seals done in spring.

Couple of questions:

- I can only get my hands on Royal Purple 75W90, Is that good enough differential oil for now?

2- I only have Rhino ramps, is diff oil drain/refill possible if using a hand pump BUT on rhino ramps?
1) No, don't use 75W90. You can get Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear lube 75W140 locally. I know Advance Auto Parts and Pep Boys stock it.

2) Yes, it's possible.

You'll need to get the proper size hex tool. I bought the kit at Autozone recommended in the DIY thread and used a propane torch to heat it up and separate it from the socket. Then you can use a closed end wrench on it to turn the fill plug (or a gear wrench). There is not enough clearance between the exhaust and the fill plug to use a socket/ratchet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you.

I have run into a bit of an issue. I do have a 14mm Hex socket but there doesnt seem to be enough room between the exhaust pipe and the drain plug to fit both the socket and the wrench.

Given that I dont have the correct oil and that it seems like the exhaust on one side needs to be dropped (given the length of my tools) I may hold off till monday and let MPowered get a crack at it.

2nd option is to buy BMW Gear oil (the one thats in the car right now) and just ADD the oil to make sure its topped up and then wait till spring and get seals replaced as well as the oil.
 

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yep, that's why you need to get the hex bit out of the socket. Then you can insert it into the fill plug and use a wrench (gearwrench works nicely) to turn it. I think it is a 14mm.
 

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I would strongly suggest to only use the Castrol SAF-XJ differential oil,as this has the correct additives for this specific diff.Other oils can damage the clutch package for example...
 

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I would strongly suggest to only use the Castrol SAF-XJ differential oil,as this has the correct additives for this specific diff.Other oils can damage the clutch package for example...
There is nothing unique about clutch discs in this differential. One of the top builders of BMW differentials for race teams of all sorts here in the US, diffsonline.com, recommends both the BMW fluid along with Mobil 1 75W140 and a couple of other fluids. This includes both stock rebuilds and their custom ramp rebuilds, etc. The only "special" additive the BMW fluid has is the one for reducing clutch disc chatter which lubes like Mobil 1 also contain.
 

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Here's the tranny and diff DIY thread I used. Biggest surprise I had was my diff plugs were 12mm and not 14mm. Also, what a PITA trying to get the car level on jack stands.
You can always put the jack and jackstand on the side of the fill plug, fill with correct amount of lube plus small amount more, lower car to normal, level, position, and let it drain out the fill plug as designed. Then jack back up properly and reinstall the plug. :)
 
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