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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
changed plugs today - here are pics

are they rich?

bank 5-8 had bit of oil in the cavity, especially #8, got on plugs on way out I think.

for consideration of the board.

BTW they were Bosch "Super Plus"...

would these be the originals, or do they have BMW on them?
 

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Bit sooty perhaps but the electrodes look clean? Just my two-penneth :)

Car running at proper temperature? I think might may be a bit black and sooty when I change after the thermostat, as it will have been running constantly over-rich for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks
I think temps are good- got no pixels for the readout, but gauge runs in the middle-ish, and it seems to warm up good, will go tiny fraction over middle in heavy traffic hot day.
 

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Perhaps a bit rich...do you know how many miles on the plugs? The oil on the plugs makes analysis (at least by pictures) a bit hard. There are a number of spark plug pictures posted on the forum that you might want to look at. A picture of mine at 53K miles is in this thread:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/109473-spark-plug-analysis.html

I was told these looked good.

I believe the manual specs either NGK or Bosch, although the few set of OE plugs I've seen were NGK, including mine. Not sure if the BMW logo is on the side of the OE Bosch plugs, but the BMW logo was on my NGK plugs.
 

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What would tend to cause that sort of oil marking then, Valley? Oil in the combustion mixture? From the inlet side? I'm no self-confessed plug reader and just offered my limited experience. Darker than chocolaty brown but the electrodes looked fairly, considering they're reckoned to be quite old. Just double-checked, the electrodes are discoloured but not actually oily, are they?

Just double-checked my terminology actually, I was referring to the central electrode, whereas I think you're referring in main to the side electrodes, which I wasn't aware were called that. So I'm not going bling, that's a relief. Yes, the side electrodes are wet looking at them now.
 

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Feel like I'm trying to teach you to suck eggs here.....but there's some great DIYs for this... :)

I'm not sure much can be missing on there, even for a n00b like me. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3...41-diy-spark-plugs-requested-pics-inside.html
Im well aware of those threads. I just want to here everyones opinion first. Im about to change the plugs and o2 sensors pretty soon and I want to make sure I have enough time cut out. My car didnt pass smog so...:sad1:
 

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Here are four of mine for comparisson, May 2000 build with 120,000 kms, yours do look a bit more cruddy but as someone else said the electrodes look OK.
 

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Im well aware of those threads. I just want to here everyones opinion first. Im about to change the plugs and o2 sensors pretty soon and I want to make sure I have enough time cut out. My car didnt pass smog so...:sad1:
Start a thread and scan your results or at least post the levels. Gas analysis is very important in diagnosing why you failed. There are things that will get you a pass. Smog and performance are not the same thing.
 

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Start a thread and scan your results or at least post the levels. Gas analysis is very important in diagnosing why you failed. There are things that will get you a pass. Smog and performance are not the same thing.

Maybe it's all the OIL your burning..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Manual shifter how long did it take you to change the plugs and do u hav any tips

hi - youll hate this- it took me 4 hours, but i do tend to check and double check everything.

also i found a damaged earth wire on one coil- see pic

i electrical taped it, do you all think that is good enough? see pic
cheers
 

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Long term, better to replace/fix properly, but assuming that's proper electrical tape, it should stop any shorting that might've been occurring.

Did the wire seem secure, in that it wasn't actually going to break any time soon? Did it get trapped somewhere to cause that or does it look as though it's been touching something hot and melted?

And S62, apologies, read your questions from the wrong angle.
 

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You don't want to leave the coil wire like that for any length of time - that plug will likely not be firing correctly.

OP - those plugs should not be covered in oil like they are.
 

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I would take a look at your rocker cover gasket seals around the plugs. Perhaps they've not been changed and they're letting oil seep out into the plug areas and when you unscrew the plugs they just get gunked up in it.

I would take a good look down there and see if it's clean and dry. Rockers are not expensive and not difficult to change. Did the ends of the coil packs have oil on them as well? It's just a thought and somewhere to start.. Other than that, as suggested.. check the intakes for oil.. have a good look in the cover and see if there is anything in there.. perhaps pipework is clogged up.. that again is an easy fix..

I can change plugs on one of these things in less than 2 hours.. it's not that difficult to do just time consuming and fiddly.. helps it you have tiny hands!

As for that cable.. I'd probably cut it and use a proper connector for the time being and tape that up..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks thats good advice- oil was in bank 5-8 cavity, couldnt see where it was from, cover wasnt oily-

must have been old, i only got car in October.

oil was way overfilled when i got it, by several litres i think- but cant see this could have got in there-

have looked into plenum, there was some oil in there, but no worse than ive seen others post pics of.

have replaced top separator hoses, (very squishy) got bottoms on order. car uses about 1 litre per 600km ( 1 quart per 375 miles)
 

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thanks thats good advice- oil was in bank 5-8 cavity, couldnt see where it was from, cover wasnt oily-

must have been old, i only got car in October.

oil was way overfilled when i got it, by several litres i think- but cant see this could have got in there-

have looked into plenum, there was some oil in there, but no worse than ive seen others post pics of.

have replaced top separator hoses, (very squishy) got bottoms on order. car uses about 1 litre per 600km ( 1 quart per 375 miles)
See post #6
 
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