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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
<SPAN lang=EN-US style="mso-ansi-language: EN-US"><FONT face=Calibri><FONT size=3>First of all a bit an introduction of how I came to own my M5 and my motoring history until now.<?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
I’ve always had a thing for all things motorized so after my fair share of mopeds and bikes there had to be a car when I got my license. Anytime I buy something it has to be something special and rare, not something which can be found on any corner. (I’ve always been this way, and it’s not something which I anticipate in the near future J ) <o:p></o:p>
So got my first car a red Porsche 924 from 1979, owned this for about one year then decided I needed something with more performance. I always wanted a Fiat Coupe turbo, so traded the 924 in on a sprint blue 20vt Fiat Coupe which suited my performance needs. Got the modding bug with this one and has been of the road for almost 4 years now I’m ashamed to admit, due to
(mod) parts not fitting properly and me losing interest in working on the car. Still own this one, and would like to get it back on the road.

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Meanwhile I would be needing a daily driver, so I would not be limited by the distance to choose the companies at which I would be doing my internships. I gladly reclined the offered VW polo (1.1L 4 speed) as it would render my mom car less and decided I would buy myself another car. I had a couple of demands, older than 1985, plenty of them sold, pretty reliable and had to converted to lpg already. Until recently you didn’t have to pay road tax on a car older than 25 years in Holland and no lpg penalty on top of that. Up until then I never liked BMW’s but they seemed to suit my demands so went to look for a 1984 e30 320i with recent LPG installation and M-tech interior. Bought the thing drove around for about two years and 40k got to really like the brand. <o:p></o:p>
Completed my education and started working, soon after that I saw an ad for a relatively cheap M5 with low mileage and LPG installation which seemed like an oddball. The car sold a couple of days after that kicked myself for not having looked at it, but a week later the ad was up again which seemed strange. Decided on a whim to call the trader who was selling the car and went l to look at it just for the hell of it. (Shouldn’t have done that because I couldn’t resistJ)Was pleasantly surprised by the overall condition of the car, the quality of the LPG install and the trader offered me almost the same what I paid for my E30 almost two years and 40k ago. Researched the cars background a bit, called the previous traders who sold the car before they advised against it because of the LPG install. (This was actually the greatest appeal of the car as it would be my daily driver) Even found it featuring on the site below.<o:p></o:p>
http://www.youngtimerassociation.net/index.php/category/duurtest/<o:p></o:p>
So pulled the trigger and bought the thing despite a strange rumbling vibration at 60km/h and a noisy gearbox. <o:p></o:p>
Drove around a couple of weeks, about 2000 kilometers getting to know the car, ordered the tool for the valve adjustment and decided it was time for a tune up and thorough inspection. Valve clearances were all over the place. While the intake was fine, on the exhaust side some where as tight as 0.05 mm. Corrected this and decided to investigate what could have caused this, found that the valve lubrication system (fitted because of the lpg installation) wasn’t releasing the lubricant. Decided this was the cause and corrected it. <o:p></o:p>
While the car was on the lift at a friends place we spotted a large amount of oil coming from the bell housing wrongly diagnosed it as the rear crank seal. So the box had to come off, ordered the seal and decided to have the box overhauled since it had to come off anyway. Several people told me input bearing was noisy, I doubted this as when I listened to the box with a iron rod to my ear I could localize the sound to middle and it sounded like the teeth were off a bit? Listened to the experts and had the box disassembled then got the call the bearings where fine but the teeth showed damage and it made the most economical sense the look for a replacement one. Called Davidoli for a replacement box he had one, but I decided to take a gamble on a one more local to me which turned out to be a mistake. After fitting the box it was noisier than my old one and second gear wasn’t available, what a waste L. Called Davidoli again said I’ll take the box, a week later it was on my doorstep. Fitted it and presto no more noise and second was available. <o:p></o:p>
This left me with the strange rumbling vibration, upon replacing the gearbox I noticed the driveshaft had already been rebuild (new u joint and paint) so decided to ignore my hunch that the driveshaft was causing trouble. Surely if you rebuild it you properly balance it afterwards? Drove it around a month and after checking everything else and checking out fine all that was left was the driveshaft. Bought a second hand drive shaft from a breaker with worn out center bearing, replaced that since I already had the part. (Suspected this was the issue, but the one installed was brand new so didn’t bother replacing it)Fitted the replacement shaft went out for a test drive and presto rumbling vibration gone. <o:p></o:p>
Couple of uneventful months later, valve clearances needed checking upon adjustment I noticed rather nasty pitting on the lobes. Closed it all up and decided to do some research, found out on this forum that the recommended TWS oil wasn’t up to scratch any more. Bought a good used set of cams and fitted them along with the S50 tensioner and filled up with Mobil one 10w60. Have adjusted valves 3 times since then and no more pitting so I’m confident this has resolved the issue.<o:p></o:p>
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
On to the rebuild:
Normally I just lurk on forums and gather useful information without contributing much. But since I just bought a spare engine in parts (has been disassembled for more than 7 years) I feel this is the time to change. I’ll be rebuilding this engine as a spare and will try to make my contribution to this forum via this thread. Hopefully it will be helpful for anyone undertaking something similar. <?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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I measured all valve guides intake guides were fine but on the exhaust side they were most were on the limit and a couple were over so they had to come out. <o:p></o:p>
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I drilled them first to reduce clamping, this is a real pain.
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Heated the head and drove them out using an air hammer.
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Measuring the bores for the new guides.
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New guides, stick these in the freezer a couple of hours before installation.
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Heating the head and aim the torch inside the cooling channel direct the heat to the correct location.
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Reaming the new guides, slightly bigger than H7, reamer seem a bit too big.
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Checking K-value again, seems a lot better although guides are a bit too big.
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Grinding in the valves on the seats
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Nice and warm bath for the head to clean things up J
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Installing new seals, be sure to install the spring seat first it won’t clear the seals found that out the hard way.
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Installing all new springs, using home-made tool.
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All springs installed
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The tool.


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Crank hub holder tool for undoing the crankbolt.
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Big *** torque wrench + holder tool
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Succes!
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Vibration damage on both sprocket and hub, could someone confirm an M30 is exactly the same as an S38 one as the M30 one is half the price?<o:p></o:p>



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Measuring the bores, I’ll be needing new pistons and be going first oversize. <o:p></o:p>
Checking the rod small end bore, luckily all are within spec.
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Valve cover will be getting a new coat of wrinkle finish soon.





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Just a tip on using the VHT, Try and heat the parts up first with a heat gun or lying in the sun. Also lay down heavy coats and again bake in hot sun or use heat gun. The heat and heavy coats create a nice even wrinkle. Honestly it wears just as good a powder coat and looks better in my eyes.

I do mine the exact way with sanding off the lettering. You could use a q-tip with some vaseline on the lettering so the paint doesn't stick. To get a even sanded finish I finish up with a hard block and go in one direction with the sandpaper vs orbit direction.

Festool great sanders!!

Nice job!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Some good tips on the VHT wrinkle paint, it does respond rather well to heat from my experience as well.

Time for some routine maintenance on my M5 changed: oil (Mobil 1 10w60) and filter, air filter, all belts, plugs, adjusted valve clearance and synchronized throttle bodies. Ready for another 10000 kilometers ;) so about 4 months. <?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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The coupe also got her first rays of sunshine J<o:p></o:p>
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The scissor lift is one of the best tools I’ve bought to date J.<o:p></o:p>


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Couldn’t resist fitting the freshly painted cover.<o:p></o:p>
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Will have to repaint the old one of course, the spot has been bugging me for over a year J.<o:p></o:p>
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Discussion Starter #12
I've used paint stripper and a wire brush, I've found VHT strip fast to work the best.
Thanks for the compliment on the tools! I actually took inspiration from your thread for the valve spring compressor :)
 

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I am glad I could help. I could find some similarities between them lol.

About the VHT, did you use their self etching primer?

Did you "oven bake" it or "sun bake" it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Nope just the wrinkle finisch, just clean and degrease properly, it's very durable.
I let it sit for about a week then sand of the letters and let the engine do the baking :) it gets hot enough I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I realize I haven’t updated this in a while. I’ve had some major setbacks with my rebuild the block I purchased in parts turned out to be a M30 one instead of a S38 one L how could I have missed that. So I started hunting for another bare block and was able to trace one in Germany. The guy who was selling the block also had a relatively low mileage head for sale so I couldn’t resist and bought both. And after a 1200km drive the block the parts were home. <?xml:namespace prefix = "o" ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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Only downside was a piston had melted in cylinder 1, was had scored the bore a bit, but I thought It would be fine but this turned out otherwise…<o:p></o:p>
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Never the less the head seemed fine so let’s disassemble clean and check it.<o:p></o:p>
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The guides turned out to be a bit loose on the exhaust but not beyond the limit.<o:p></o:p>
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Had new guides installed but they were a bit too tight for my liking so I reamed them out at bit.<o:p></o:p>
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The head has been skimmed 0,07mm, valves regrinded + seats with 3 angle valve job, valve guides are within spec verified by measuring again.<o:p></o:p>
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Time to reassemble the head with new springs and seals.<o:p></o:p>
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Too bad the block turned out to be worse than I expected and it had to be bored out to 94,5mm and decked to ensure a clean surface, rendering my already purchased 93,60mm pistons useless.<o:p></o:p>
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Time to spend some cash again 94,5mm CP pistons in compression 10.5 and MLS headgasket to accommodate for the bigger bore size. <o:p></o:p>
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Checking the ring gap all OK luckily.<o:p></o:p>
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New main bearings and verifying clearance.<o:p></o:p>
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Time to check the rods although they checked out dimensionally something didn’t feel right, after weighing them the difference was a whopping 10 grams. Really wasn’t happy with this, lesson to be learned from this never buy an engine in bits L.<o:p></o:p>
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So I decided to get me a set of these<o:p></o:p>
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Checked the small end bigend dimensionally and both seem to be pretty consistent. <o:p></o:p>
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Checking clearance<o:p></o:p>
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Since I already decided to go with higher compression pistons and wanted to set up the engine properly for some more mid-end grunt I got my the cam gears slotted to time the cams. <o:p></o:p>
Whats’ the recommended timing for this? Is it 108 for the intake and 110 for the exhaust. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated. <o:p></o:p>
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Just waiting on a few more parts now hopefully I can start with assembly in the next few weeks.<o:p></o:p>
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Great job and skills! Where did you source the rods from? They look great.

You could have used the M30 block... you just needed to divise na oil drain plug at the back of the block.
Keep updating this please! :15:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The M30 block also has less cooling holes between the cylinders so these should be bored milled as well, and somebody had already attempted an oil return but really bad and I just couldn't live with that.

I got the rods from the dutch importer but here's the site: Zrp - Home Page distributor for Europe is based in Greece.

They're made in China (it says so on the box manufactured in China tested and inspected in the EU) but come with ARP 2000 bolts the correct lubricant, lipped around the bolt hole and dimensionally they're pretty accurate. The small-end seems a bit tight but after sliding the gudgeon pin through a couple of times they slide through much better. So I expect this will be fine. The big end becomes round when torqued up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
When you compare the pictures of the top of the block on this page with the ones on previous page you should be able to spot the difference. They are located between the bores.
 
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