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I've got the MaxJax in my garage and really love it. I did have to cut and pour new concrete, but was worth it. I ended up putting in 2 sets of anchors so I have a little more flexibility. While the MaxJax is movable it's not portable and it does take up a bit of space.

If you want something truly portable, or takes up very little space, check out the EZ Car Lift. It's normally $2000, but there is a group buy for $1650.

I use the EZ Lift mostly for the track since I already have a MaxJax in my garage, but also use it in my driveway.




It takes up less room than an EZ UP pop up tent. But you could also store it under your car or up against the wall.




The cool thing about the EZ Car Lift is that you can take it anywhere and use it practically anywhere, including in the dirt and grass. The heavies part of the EZ Lift is under 50lbs.
 

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I just ordered the MaxJax from Costco for $1999.99! I checked Home Depot to see if they would add match and they told me they don't with Sams Club or Costco because they are membership only discount stores....I said, "no problem"....went to Costco online, signed up for a membership for $55 and ordered the lift with free delivery to my house! The original Costco price was $2299.99 with a $300 instant rebate and free shipping came to $1999.99....Home Depot carries it and it's an online "only" order for $2599.99 + free deliver to the store...

That was a "no" brainer! Costco was the much better deal even though I had to pay for a membership! I'm sure I'll love using it for my M6 and 4 other vehicles that I maintain!
 

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I went out and took some more pictures. The lift is rated at 7K and the car I think is 4.3k. The pads lift straight up and it is very stable when up. The first time up I tried to rock the car to see how stable it is. It's very stable. I also if you noticed I bolted the back of the pad plate to the floor so it wouldn't move when parking on it everyday. No need to do bolt the front as the 2 in the back hold it from moving. Like I said earlier, I have had it up 40 times and up to 2 weeks at a time with no problem. You see in the bottom there are big locking teeth so if hydraulic pressure was lost, it stays up. I put those red straps on the rubber blocks because you get busy finishing up and don't see them and then try and back over them when you're done. The straps give you a visual they are still under the car. The rear gets lifted under the plastic and I add the wood to make the car level when the pads lift it. There is no change to the plastic as it has sat on it before for two weeks and it doesn't affect it at all. Best thing is you'll have it a life time and it's clean around the car with no other obstructions.

Edit: With the rear jack pad being about 12" back, the heaviest front half of the car is more centered on the lift. It really makes the engine, transmission and rear end oil changes easy. Oh and you asked about the blue metal pad width. 19".
Update: Here is a mod I did for this lift to allow the lift to pick up on the jacking points for the M5. 3 series doesn't need this. Before I would just lift it in front of the rear jacking points using rubber pads. I got to thinking about it and bought (2) 68" rectangular steel tubing, 5 x 2 x 1/4 wall thick. Now this allows the lift to work at all jack points. Another area this will work is on some suv's or other sub compact cars, you would lay these tubes across the jack pads and lift on the cars frame that are further towards the center. A 100.00 fixed this and made the jack more versatile.
 

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I am sure this is a little pricey but has anyone seen one in person or thought of getting one of these, see website,

mobileliftconcepts

Wish I can afford something like this. :biggrin::biggrin:
 

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I've had a four post lift for 7 or 8 years now. It sits directly on the racedeck tiles; no holes drilled to anchor it. It doesn't move. Now if I lived in an earthquake zone, I'd probably sink some anchors in the concrete.

I have 125" ceilings by the way. I freed up additional overhead space by replacing the standard opener in the photo with a shaft driven wall mounted LiftMaster unit.

As others have said the garage door needs modification as well. Earmark about $700 for this unless you can do it yourself. It required adding an additional panel piece on top of the door and extending the rails as close to the ceilings as possible so it would clear the top car. You can see the additional panel section on top of the door in the photo.

Two other things I'll point out. When trying to determine a fit, don't just measure the height of the lower car, check where the mechanical stops are on the lift posts. They are typically 4-6" apart. Their location actually determines where the upper car will rest. You don't just let the cables support the weight at rest.

Secondly, ask the supplier what components are used. Many sellers are just distributors. Ask who makes the hydraulic unit, who makes the motor, and where is the steel is welded. Most steel comes from China but the real issue is where it's welded together. You may find the "made in the USA" is actually assembled in the USA. Big difference.

Here's an old photo. The SUV ride height on the red 993 is long since gone when I put a Bilstein PSS9 kit on it. The green tennis balls on the bottom of the lift cover the metal tabs that stick out for the casters. Uncovered, your ankles are perfect height. Using these tabs, you can put the four casters on it and roll the lift around; after lowering the top car of course. However, I never use my casters. It should also come with drip pans and a metal piece that goes between the ramps so you can jack the top car up with it on the lift.
Which 4 post lift did you go with? Any mold / mildew issues with the Racedeck tiles?
 

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It’s been awhile. The supplier was American Equipment Suppliers. Not sur they are still in business. I use a local company for preventative maintenance items.
I have not seen any mold however I have not lifted the tiles to look. Definitely none on top.
 
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