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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My garage has limited height, and I don't want to drill anchor holes in the concrete floor. I'm wondering if anyone had success using scissors lift to service the M5. I looked at the Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 series, which looks nice because there's a 33" opening between the platforms so you can service transmission, exhaust, driveshaft, etc. under the car without issue. Opinions and advice?:wroom:

Atlas Kwik Bay 7000 Portable Scissor Lift | Atlas Automotive Equipment
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
That's a nice unit, does it have to be recess mounted? Wow, just looked at price, taken me aback. :eek:h:
 

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It does not have to be recessed. Look up YouTube videos of it and you'll see its many configurations. The price is reasonable compared to the many other units that I've seen and Bendpak doesn't seem to be a crappy company.

the one that you posted is nice but I'm not sure what kind of exhaust and transmission work will you be able to do with such little clearance. You can't exactly walk under that space.

The single scissor lifts are nice for wheel and suspension work, but you can't do any work under the car.

The 2-post lifts are great overall but they take up garage space on each side of the car (so you'd bang the doors against it or you have to wrap them in those flat cushions that I often see.
 

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I have the Greg Smith which is the Atlas. I changed my rod bearings and also pulled my SMG transmission and did my fly wheel and new clutch on my E60 M5. I have an 8 1/2 foot ceiling and this lift stops the car about 2 inches from the ceiling. I paid just over 1900 for mine. It's a life saver and will have it way after the car is gone. There are pictures I posted a while back over on the E60 area.


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I have the Greg Smith which is the Atlas. I changed my rod bearings and also pulled my SMG transmission and did my fly wheel and new clutch on my E60 M5. I have an 8 1/2 foot ceiling and this lift stops the car about 2 inches from the ceiling. I paid just over 1900 for mine. It's a life saver and will have it way after the car is gone. There are pictures I posted a while back over on the E60 area.
I suppose if you have one of those rolling shop chairs you could get it done easier. Is that how you went about working under the car on that lift?
 

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I'm considering a garage lift not only for maintenance, but so I can turn my 2-car garage into a 3-car garage.

Does anyone here park a car under their lifted car? If so, any suggestions of things I might consider?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I'm considering a garage lift not only for maintenance, but so I can turn my 2-car garage into a 3-car garage.

Does anyone here park a car under their lifted car? If so, any suggestions of things I might consider?
You need a 4 post lift and high ceiling for that.

I have the Greg Smith which is the Atlas. I changed my rod bearings and also pulled my SMG transmission and did my fly wheel and new clutch on my E60 M5. I have an 8 1/2 foot ceiling and this lift stops the car about 2 inches from the ceiling. I paid just over 1900 for mine. It's a life saver and will have it way after the car is gone. There are pictures I posted a while back over on the E60 area.


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Do you use any extension to reach the jacking points on the M5? The Atlas platform is barely 56" long without the ramps. Do you have a picture from the side with the M5 on it?
 

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I'm on the road now and can post pics when I get back. Yes you are correct on it not reaching the back jack points but that is not a problem. It come with these rubber blocks and I put them just in front of the rear jack point and where the frame rail is. On the 3 series both jack points fit. I've had my car up probably 40 times and it works very well. Another good thing about this jack is I park my car on it. There are no posts or anything about the jack taking up additional room in the garage. When the car is parked you don't see it. The other types with the posts take up room. Great for doing brakes and rotors. Lift the car up 6 inches and move around on a stool.


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While a step down from a two post lift, with limited height (8'), and a desire to preserve flexibility I chose a "Kwik Lift" KWIKLIFT - The perfect carlift for your home garage or commercial shop

I snagged mine on used/like new on Ebay for about $800.00.

If you don't like floor jacks, it's a real step up. If you are used to standing up while working, it's a step down. I use a really nice creeper, and I can sit up under my car while working on the tranny/drive train.
 

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The lift my dad has, and probably what I will eventually buy as well is the "Direct" lift Propark 8S.
Four Post Lifts

It's listed here for a little over $2000 US. He also has the optional castors so that you can push it around the garage. He parks underneath it all the time. He's got 11' clearance to the ceiling I think.

The other important accessory to get is a couple of ProJacks, at about $550 each
Pro Jack 3500

These slide forward and back in order to lift the car off its wheels.

We used it a couple of years ago to take the grill off our A4 Avant, and it made the job a billion times more pleasant than it would have been without.
 

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Garage height isn't the only thing you need to consider. Look at your garage door, it's rails and the garage door opener, they could be a factor as well. We just purchased a new home (hurrah for me) with a 3 car garage having 12' ceilings. I should have enough room for something. I would install a roll up door and a shaft driven opener though.
 

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The price is starting at 2100 for those portable lifts. For that much, we can get 2 post lifts used condition for less. Although I would consider this for my garage..
True, though I have seen them below $2k with free shipping from time to time. The advantage this over a two post is flexibility--it doesn't turn your two-car garage permanently into a one-car garage--a transformation that would not enthuse my wife.

--Peter
 

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He said that he doesn't want to do heavy modifications to his garage floor and 2 post lifts are hardly practical in a single-car garage.
 

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I've had a four post lift for 7 or 8 years now. It sits directly on the racedeck tiles; no holes drilled to anchor it. It doesn't move. Now if I lived in an earthquake zone, I'd probably sink some anchors in the concrete.

I have 125" ceilings by the way. I freed up additional overhead space by replacing the standard opener in the photo with a shaft driven wall mounted LiftMaster unit.

As others have said the garage door needs modification as well. Earmark about $700 for this unless you can do it yourself. It required adding an additional panel piece on top of the door and extending the rails as close to the ceilings as possible so it would clear the top car. You can see the additional panel section on top of the door in the photo.

Two other things I'll point out. When trying to determine a fit, don't just measure the height of the lower car, check where the mechanical stops are on the lift posts. They are typically 4-6" apart. Their location actually determines where the upper car will rest. You don't just let the cables support the weight at rest.

Secondly, ask the supplier what components are used. Many sellers are just distributors. Ask who makes the hydraulic unit, who makes the motor, and where is the steel is welded. Most steel comes from China but the real issue is where it's welded together. You may find the "made in the USA" is actually assembled in the USA. Big difference.

Here's an old photo. The SUV ride height on the red 993 is long since gone when I put a Bilstein PSS9 kit on it. The green tennis balls on the bottom of the lift cover the metal tabs that stick out for the casters. Uncovered, your ankles are perfect height. Using these tabs, you can put the four casters on it and roll the lift around; after lowering the top car of course. However, I never use my casters. It should also come with drip pans and a metal piece that goes between the ramps so you can jack the top car up with it on the lift.
 

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