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The radio doesn’t lift up or work, car won’t crank as if its not getting enough power checked all fuses in the glove box all are good! I have tried to charge the battery over night charger said complete but car still won’t engage to crank! Need help! It all started when my windshield wipers wouldn’t go off and my speed thermometer started going crazy! What could it be?
 

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The radio doesn’t lift up or work, car won’t crank as if its not getting enough power checked all fuses in the glove box all are good! I have tried to charge the battery over night charger said complete but car still won’t engage to crank! Need help! It all started when my windshield wipers wouldn’t go off and my speed thermometer started going crazy! What could it be?
Speed Thermometor - that a new option that i never heard of.
I believe your CAS died
 

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Sounds like classic overvoltage from bad regulator/alternator and likely bad battery. Have you been getting battery error messages or trouble cranking?
 

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It seems that you want help to get in to trunk or did I misinterpret what you said. The easiest way to open the trunk is to pop the hood and apply 12V+ to the jumper cable connector thing and 12- to the ground lug on the strut tower. Then hit your trunk button. There are other ways like the cable under the rear seat and yet another that some involves some damage, but you can get in if other methods don't work.
 

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Mine went dead once, pull the cable under the rear seat to open the trunk. Pull on the battery connections and make sure they are tight. Mine popped right off! You can tighten the nut on the post without the post being seated.
 

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Sounds like classic overvoltage from bad regulator/alternator and likely bad battery. Have you been getting battery error messages or trouble cranking?
"Classic" Is this a common problem? I was getting a lot of strange things such as what the OP described. I'd be driving and all of a sudden my needles would peg back and forth, car would sometimes die, and then not start for a few cranks. New alternator time? is the voltage regulator built into the alternator? If this is the case, im pretty handy with working on my own cars, how bad is the process to change out the alternator?
 

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I would change out the alternator entirely while you’re there. Its a pain in the MF**** *** if you’ve never done it before, due to space constraints. That could of been my experience because i used RhinoRamps instead of a proper lift.

my alternator wasnt high miles (Under 50k) and the brushes nearly ate half the shaft. Look around, you might be able to find a good deal on an new or refurb alternator on amazon, ebay, or sites like FCPEuro and Autohausaz.com

i got a brand new Valeo from amazon for $100 in the used (“returns”) section. Except some smart *** delivery guy dropped it but i used it anyway.

here it is for $127 in Used section... Valeo 439559 Alternator Amazon.com: Valeo 439559 Alternator: Automotive
 

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If this is the case, im pretty handy with working on my own cars, how bad is the process to change out the alternator?
Changing the alternator is trivial when the subframe is removed. You have to do this when you change rod bearings. Voltage regulators go seem to go bad on these cars by 100k miles so I recommend this if you have your rod bearings done.
 

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Rod bearings and alternator? dont overcomplicate it, i replaced it without removing half the amount of bolts one of the DIY vids was showing to do (primarily the bottom sway bar). As long as you have the fan shroud removed and the surrounding hoses are loose... it wiggles right out. You may need to flip it or turn it around side ways, etc.

Might as well replace belt(s) and idler pulleys while in there. When belt is removed i used a long wrench to give the oil-filled tension pulleys a workout as it seems they got a little stiff and nearly impossible to move. They were alot better after giving them a flex workout.
 

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The regulator is the usual suspect so that's what I'd do. Easier to change too. The rectifier diodes within the alternator body don't seem to fail often.
 

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The regulator is the usual suspect so that's what I'd do. Easier to change too. The rectifier diodes within the alternator body don't seem to fail often.
Thank you both Flacoramos and Dmitry911. I just posted another thread early this morning with all the codes that the car is throwing (‘08 SMG). Think those would play into the regulator as well?
 

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Any weird codes that its throwing is either the alternator or the voltage regulator

everything from DSC to Engine temperature gauge would be going crazy. It would also on occasion fully drain The battery, sometimes within hours.
 
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