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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I am in the process of narrowing down my damp carpets on the left side (drivers in North America) of my new to me M6. I have ruled out the under cowl drains - I pulled them all apart, cleaned and tested them and they drain like a champ.

My testing has narrowed down 2 possible sources of entry: the vapor barrier isn't fully seated, but I fail to see how that much water could enter the doors, plus I can see that the door drains are well clear. I am replacing it and re-sealing anyways, just because.

Now, the weatherstripping. This is where I think the issue mainly resides. The weatherstripping on the driver's side is becoming flat and showing signs of degradation. I have removed the backlit M6 sill plate, as well as the plastic kick panel that covers the joint between the carpet and the weather seal. When I peel the carpets back, it looks like the carpets are getting wet from this area and travelling down to the lower areas on the floor.

My question is mainly about the glass seal part number 2 shown here: RealOEM.com   BMW E63 M6 Door weatherstrip

I believe that with the combination of age (2006 Model year) and the comfort access constantly lowering the glass for entry, this seal is allowing more moisture into the door than should be. It is particularly loose and squishy at the end furthest rear on the glass.

Has anyone replaced this seal before? I have tried searching many e63 forums, as I believe that this would pertain to any of the cars, not just M6's.

I would really appreciate any help!

Best,

Eric :1zhelp:
 

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Hi Eric,

Sorry to hear about your troubles and while I am about 95% sure I have seen something about replacing the weatherstripping on the e63, I didn't bookmark it for future reference. I only post to encourage you to keep looking (when I first joined, I read every single post in the M6 section - excessive but informative) and I could swear I saw it in there.

Good Luck!

:cheers:

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey thanks for the heads up and encouragement. Still waiting for the parts to arrive/ship from ecstuning. Had some really really hard rain the past couple weeks up here in the NW, and so I'm really looking forward to getting this all sealed up properly! I've only had the car since December, and by my estimation it was leaking before I bought it, so it was definitely an oversight on my behalf.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
OK so it took me a long time to find the info that I need, but for future reference, this online version of the TIS from BMW is very helpful!

Says that a special tool is used to lift the seal off the door frame:

="http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/6...ith_special_tool_00_9_324_at_front_or_rear/"]

But it looks like a friction fit, and anything suitably flat and long could be used to slowly lift the seal off the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I chose to replace the vapor barrier (available for about $40) which is held in with butyl tape. This is a very gummy, thick almost tar-like substance which will half come off on the vapor barrier, and half will be left on the door itself.

To remove, you will take a bit of the old butyl tape and sticky tack it like you would be removing chewing gum with chewing gum!

you should see a faint trace of the old butyl tape line against the sheetmetal of the door. you can use this ghosted line to follow when taping the new butyl tape.

This is the barrier installed. be sure to press it in firmly against the new butyl seal. My factory seal had come unstuck in several places, and at some point the dealer had worked on the car and not done a great job of resealing the vapor barrier.

second photo is of the butyl tape. cost about $10 at my local parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Lastly, I chose to plasti-dip my wheels black. When I bought my car, the clear was starting to peel on the factory aluminum wheels, and the center caps were failing. I have never used plasti-dip but there are several good DIY videos on youtube about the subject and I thought it would be an interesting interim look until I feel like having the wheels properly restored.

I chose to remove the wheels from the car because I wanted to clean the inside and rear of the rim. I didnt go overboard with dipping the inside of the wheel, but I did give it a solid coat because these wheels are so open and have really large inside surface area being performance wheels.
 

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