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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched and nobody mentions the platic caps on the end of the sway bar links? One side is a 15mm but it just spins so I need to get to the other side but there is a white plastic cap on there that won't come off...anyobdy taken these off is there a trick? The plastic is brittle so they seem to be breaking on the edges...should they be reused???

Anybody that has been there and done that let me know....

-Jeff
 

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Nolift911 said:
I have searched and nobody mentions the platic caps on the end of the sway bar links? One side is a 15mm but it just spins so I need to get to the other side but there is a white plastic cap on there that won't come off...anyobdy taken these off is there a trick? The plastic is brittle so they seem to be breaking on the edges...should they be reused???

Anybody that has been there and done that let me know....

-Jeff
Call Dinan
 

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Try Zeckhausen Racing

Dave is very knowledgeable and can likely help.

My car is a 540i6. I didn't have the caps you describe when I installed my M5 rear sway bar.

p.s. I assume you know you can pick up a few bucks by selling to a 528, 530 or 540 owner your stock sway bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hasn't anybody installed these themselves?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The white plastic caps are on the ends of the sway bar drop links - they did not come with the bar.
 

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If I understand your question, you're finding that the nut that fastens the sway bar to the link is spinning when you try to remove it. In order to prevent this, the threaded 'stud' that attaches the sway bar link to the sway bar has machined surfaces so you can place an open-end wrench inbetween the swaybar and the rubber seal that protects the link.

From another perspective, look inbetween the link and the sway bar, and that's where you'll find the spot for the open end wrench to keep the link from spinning while you're turning the nut off.

(sorry for the lack of proper terminology, but I'm not sure what the components of the sway bar link are called)
 

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iirc, i bought a thin 16mm wrench from a bike shop to slip in between the bar and the link, to hold that nut, when i installed my bar. I'm not sure of the caps your speaking of either.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Andy -

That is refreshing - exactly what I needed. Seems kinda ghetto as there is a chance to tear the boot on the drop link by wedging an open end in there.

At least I didn't butcher up the white caps on the drop links. I was eyeing my die grinder while cursing underneath the car. Maybe this is just common sense for everyone else but I never saw a setup like this before.

-Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mottati said:
iirc, i bought a thin 16mm wrench from a bike shop to slip in between the bar and the link, to hold that nut, when i installed my bar. I'm not sure of the caps your speaking of either.
You guys don't have white plastic caps on your drop links? I will shoot a picture if I get a chance. My car only has 12k miles on it so maybe you guy's are not white anymore???

-Jeff
 

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I have an '01 also and don't recall seeing any white caps. I installed my Dinan rear bar myself, too. Mike's tip is a good one. Get a thin wrench from a bike shop to stop the stud from turning when you put your socket on the nut. Trouble is, I can't recall if it's 16 or 17mm. Get both. You'll eventually find a use for the other one!
 

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No white caps on mine. I agree with the method for getting the ball joints to stop spinning. Took me some time to figure that one out. I used an adjustable wrench (couldn't find the right size at the time) and it worked fine.

Bert, the outside holes are the least aggressive, meaning more understeer. The inside holes stiffen the bar (decreasing its moment, physically speaking) and increase oversteer (or decrease understeer depending on how you look at it).
 

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Redshift said:
No white caps on mine. I agree with the method for getting the ball joints to stop spinning. Took me some time to figure that one out. I used an adjustable wrench (couldn't find the right size at the time) and it worked fine.

Bert, the outside holes are the least aggressive, meaning more understeer. The inside holes stiffen the bar (decreasing its moment, physically speaking) and increase oversteer (or decrease understeer depending on how you look at it).
Brian,

Thanks very much. It helps to have a second opinion.

Bert
 
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