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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys. My 08 M5 finally arrived and its currently having the bearings and vanos line replaced at a local shop. When they went to start the car up this morning, it had the check engine light and dsc on. What's weird is I've got all the service records back to even just a few miles ago from a BMW dealer and none of this was an issue on those records. 88k miles now. It's been driven very few miles since then so not sure how that happens but here goes. Car was bought remotely but a local shop ran the codes and test drove it for 45m without any issues. As well, the previous owner stated he had had no issues in the last 5-6k miles. Seeing a lot of throttle actuator codes here. I've got a receipt for the bank 1 actuator being done at 59k miles though so could that really be popping up again already only 29k later?

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I second Nova. The dme remember the stats of the battery the last time it ran. If they are too different on next startup it gets very cranky.

Charge it up and re-register the battery, then clear the codes to see what codes come back if any.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Interesting you all say this, because the car has spent a lot of time sitting. Its only seen 2,000 miles in the last year. But I do have a service record for battery and alternator replacement by the dealer on 1/26/17 at 69k miles.
 

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I've also had read-outs like that once the battery has been unplugged for awhile while I do a major service and hook everything back up. After wiping the codes and cycling terminal 15 they never come back, and as others state I always top it off by hooking the charger up overnight. I never reregister a battery unless it's been replaced, I don't want the car to treat an old battery like new and never had an issue that required that to fix it.
 

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Interesting you all say this, because the car has spent a lot of time sitting. Its only seen 2,000 miles in the last year. But I do have a service record for battery and alternator replacement by the dealer on 1/26/17 at 69k miles.
That’s nearly 4 years ago and it obviously hasn’t been driven much in that time. It’s quite likely the battery is in a low state of charge and it’s possible it needs replacing.

As advised above I would charge the battery overnight (with an agm compatible charger), then clear the codes, start it up and check for any new codes. That’s a good place to start.
 

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Did the car started or not? If you have real problems with the throttle actuator the car will not be drivable, but yeah the battery get damaged if it is not being charged over long period of time and this car doesn't like weak battery or alternator, you can charge the battery delete the fault and drive the car and check faults again, if after deleting the fault the car is not drivable then you need to investigate the faults that come up again.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So a weak battery could cause throttle actuator specific codes? Seems kind of like a random set of codes to choose.

Yes the car starts. That’s why my guy at the shop thinks it’s genuinely actuators because it fires with no hesitation at all.

But it was started and driven with no issues for the PPI, loaded onto a transport trailer and back off with no issues, onto another transport trailer for the 800 mile trip and and a few miles up and down the road for delivery, no issues. Car sat overnight at the shop, now when they fired it up today Bam they’ve got codes. Seems weird.
 

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When you send power to terminal 15 and press engine start the dme runs an actuator check sequence, have a buddy sit in the car and look under the hood-you’ll see them flicker before fire, then ignition if that and whatever else your dme checks out OK. So certainly possible on low state of charge dme would sense lag or low current from the actuators and store a code.

I spent wayyy too much time trying to fix mine before throwing in the towel and buying new ones...

Charger is cheap, battery kind of cheap, actuators really expensive. Best course of action seems to follow that sequence.
 

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Those fault are inconsistent, they have different mileage I can't rely on them, some of them seems old, could some of them or all are just logged in the memory but they possibly not existence, it weird the ISTA version they are using doesn't show if the fault codes exist or not, my ISTA version does show that. Ask the shop to put a battery charger, delete the fault and start the car and scan for fault
 

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I back Nova's answer, after just reviving an 08. I can easily say that until I got a replacement battery and removed every solid connection and cleaned the contact points I was met with crazy faults that made no sense and sometimes they would show up and sometimes not. My car sat for just over a year before getting touched.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You know, the more I think about this, the battery is making more sense because I also noticed the clock was completely wrong on the vehicle in one of the photos sent to me right before shipping.
 

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You know, the more I think about this, the battery is making more sense because I also noticed the clock was completely wrong on the vehicle in one of the photos sent to me right before shipping.
If you have a multi meter now is the time to use it. As described to me by other board members and also verified myself the car has a huge parasitic draw while sitting off with the keys out. Verifying just the other day I'm seeing arounf 12.5-12.6 volts at rest with about two days of sitting. Add priming of the SMG pump and access lights when opening the door and I guarantee you're under a good starting or running voltage. Trust me I chased faults around for over a month every single day with some experienced board members before they piped in and said it was time for a new battery to rule out voltage variation on start up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you have a multi meter now is the time to use it. As described to me by other board members and also verified myself the car has a huge parasitic draw while sitting off with the keys out. Verifying just the other day I'm seeing arounf 12.5-12.6 volts at rest with about two days of sitting. Add priming of the SMG pump and access lights when opening the door and I guarantee you're under a good starting or running voltage. Trust me I chased faults around for over a month every single day with some experienced board members before they piped in and said it was time for a new battery to rule out voltage variation on start up.
So the battery fixed it?
 

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@jta98z That and a few other things like a basic tune-up but I eliminated 80% of my faults by getting a new battery in the car and making all the systems happy voltage wise., think of it this way.

If your light bulb goes out you don't rip the electrical out of the walls. You replace the bulb, then if it doesn't fix it you check the breaker. And if that's not popped you start moving into more complex things in the circuit.. Same process.

Check the battery first, have it load tested. Potentially replace it if the tests and numbers show it needs it. Move up the car, check connections from the battery forward. Then check all connections leading to the actuator (wear, tear, brittle wires) Then last but not least remove the actuator its self, open it up and check to see if anything is out of place or seriously worn. Maybe order a new one..


But the battery fault at the very bottom of that list is where I would start its the simplest thing to diagnose out of all those and every other fault is controlled by an electrical component being ran off that battery..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks. I've asked the shop to charge it fully after completing the bearings before they clear the codes and restest.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Screw it. I bought a new battery anyway. I'll still test it, but I think my mind will be more at ease with a fresh new battery. Especially considering this one is 4 years old, and these cars apparently are hard on batteries.
 

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Screw it. I bought a new battery anyway. I'll still test it, but I think my mind will be more at ease with a fresh new battery. Especially considering this one is 4 years old, and these cars apparently are hard on batteries.
That's a good bet with the battery being that old. Its a good start. If the codes don't go away then at least you can eliminate that variable
 

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If you look carefully at the ISTA fault codes screen shot you can see that the car has been driven 4 miles after the logged fault codes, you can clearly see that at the subsequent faults for CID and the SZL, if the throttle actuators indeed failed the car won't travel 1 inch. The shop should have deleted the fault and scan again instead of showing them to the customer.
 
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