BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I need some assistance with an issue I'm having powering up my new equipment. I took all the OEM components out and replaced with an Alpine ILX-650 HU and Alpine amp in the back plus all new speakers. New speakers wires were run for all the speakers. I even ran new power, ACC wire, and remote turn on wire up to the front. I had the amp in the back working and now the light on the amp is off. I took the Violet/White wire for remote turn on the new amp and the white wire for ACC switched. This was from the large OEM amp plug in the back left side. Ran a 4 gauge power cable with a block to the right back side with where the + battery terminal was connected. Everything is grounded. I now have no power to the amp or the HU. What am I missing? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Continuity / power on the wires with a multimeter? Fuse on the amp / HU didn't trip?
I have an old Sears volt meter which I don't think works anymore. Just ordered a new one on Amazon, but won't be here until Monday. Can you confirm if those are the wires to tap into?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
You need a meter to check power right at the back of the head unit. Also, check your ground connections. Ensure you’re getting a good ground to chassis. I tapped off the fuse box in the glove box for power to my Kenwood head unit. Much shorter run and easier to work with.
Also, I’m confused about your comment on remote turn on for the head unit? You don’t need remote turn on for it. It has a remote turn on to be run to the amp. Head unit should only need 12v power on it’s main connections to turn it on. Remote wire goes from the head unit to your amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You need a meter to check power right at the back of the head unit. Also, check your ground connections. Ensure you’re getting a good ground to chassis. I tapped off the fuse box in the glove box for power to my Kenwood head unit. Much shorter run and easier to work with.
Also, I’m confused about your comment on remote turn on for the head unit? You don’t need remote turn on for it. It has a remote turn on to be run to the amp. Head unit should only need 12v power on it’s main connections to turn it on. Remote wire goes from the head unit to your amp.
Yes. Sorry. I meant that I ran a blue wire from the amp up to the front and connected to the remote turn on wire from the HU.

What fuse did you use for switched ACC and power?

I just tried to connect the HU in the trunk to see if it would go on. Connected power wire to the distributor block and the switched ACC wire to the violet/white wire from the OEM amp plug. Grounded the wire to the chassis. No power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
907 Posts
Hi Haywood,

It's been ages since I stopped installing so I'm a little vague but I'll provide here what I do know and have picked up from other E39 installations.

For the USA market, I believe all E39 M5's came with the Navigation & monitor setup. There's an extension cable 5/6 Metres long that can be purchased on Ebay/Amazon etc that plugs into the loom at the back of the car. You then run that along the underside of the carpet along the side of the car to the front dash location where the head unit will fit. This cable 'extends' the 12V, switched 12V, Ground, Antenna and speaker wires. You can then plug the new head unit into that receptacle (you 'might' need a converting lead) and it should power up.

Now you've run wires already, so I can only think you've mis-connected one and/or there's a continuity issue somewhere along one of those new cable runs.

It's hard to diagnose here on the thread, but you'll need to do some fault finding in case the extension route above doesn't work. In addition, will you be trying to connect the iLX-W650 to the OEM amp? if so, then I'd personally say not to bother and drive upgraded component speakers in the front directly from the iLX-W650, it just removes another layer of complexity and a redundant OEM module. If you're amp is a DSP one, then it's much more of a faff to integrate/connect that up and the OEM DSP speakers themselves aren't very good and way past their 'best' given they'd be perhaps 17+ years old at least.

If you are still getting issues, I'd suggest taking your car to a local, reputable and experienced car audio installer to have them wire up and connect the head unit up properly and safely.

Cheers, Dennis!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Yes. Sorry. I meant that I ran a blue wire from the amp up to the front and connected to the remote turn on wire from the HU.

What fuse did you use for switched ACC and power?

I just tried to connect the HU in the trunk to see if it would go on. Connected power wire to the distributor block and the switched ACC wire to the violet/white wire from the OEM amp plug. Grounded the wire to the chassis. No power.

For the head unit, I used 2 add-a-circuit taps in the glove box. Cigarette lighter (7) for constant 12v and Garage door opener (21) for 12v switched.

For amp turn on I used purple/white stripe wire on radio connector (trunk).

You really need a meter to ensure you're getting power at those wires.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
For the head unit, I used 2 add-a-circuit taps in the glove box. Cigarette lighter (7) for constant 12v and Garage door opener (21) for 12v switched.

For amp turn on I used purple/white stripe wire on radio connector (trunk).

You really need a meter to ensure you're getting power at those wires.
Thanks. I’ll look for those fuse locations. I ordered a new volt meter, but won’t receive it through Amazon until Monday. Ironically, it actually turned on when I tested it the other day so I’m wondering if it is blown fuse somewhere. Appreciate the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Hi Haywood,

It's been ages since I stopped installing so I'm a little vague but I'll provide here what I do know and have picked up from other E39 installations.

For the USA market, I believe all E39 M5's came with the Navigation & monitor setup. There's an extension cable 5/6 Metres long that can be purchased on Ebay/Amazon etc that plugs into the loom at the back of the car. You then run that along the underside of the carpet along the side of the car to the front dash location where the head unit will fit. This cable 'extends' the 12V, switched 12V, Ground, Antenna and speaker wires. You can then plug the new head unit into that receptacle (you 'might' need a converting lead) and it should power up.

Now you've run wires already, so I can only think you've mis-connected one and/or there's a continuity issue somewhere along one of those new cable runs.

It's hard to diagnose here on the thread, but you'll need to do some fault finding in case the extension route above doesn't work. In addition, will you be trying to connect the iLX-W650 to the OEM amp? if so, then I'd personally say not to bother and drive upgraded component speakers in the front directly from the iLX-W650, it just removes another layer of complexity and a redundant OEM module. If you're amp is a DSP one, then it's much more of a faff to integrate/connect that up and the OEM DSP speakers themselves aren't very good and way past their 'best' given they'd be perhaps 17+ years old at least.

If you are still getting issues, I'd suggest taking your car to a local, reputable and experienced car audio installer to have them wire up and connect the head unit up properly and safely.

Cheers, Dennis!
Thanks Dennis. I’m replacing the whole system with new amps and speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Thanks. I’ll look for those fuse locations. I ordered a new volt meter, but won’t receive it through Amazon until Monday. Ironically, it actually turned on when I tested it the other day so I’m wondering if it is blown fuse somewhere. Appreciate the help.
It does sound like a fuse may be blown. You can pull them and physically see if they are blown. But the question is why? Make sure you have good clean splices, crimps, and heat shrink on your connections. Check for ground contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
For the head unit, I used 2 add-a-circuit taps in the glove box. Cigarette lighter (7) for constant 12v and Garage door opener (21) for 12v switched.

For amp turn on I used purple/white stripe wire on radio connector (trunk).

You really need a meter to ensure you're getting power at those wires.
I was able to tap into those locations and it worked. Thanks for the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
For the head unit, I used 2 add-a-circuit taps in the glove box. Cigarette lighter (7) for constant 12v and Garage door opener (21) for 12v switched.

For amp turn on I used purple/white stripe wire on radio connector (trunk).

You really need a meter to ensure you're getting power at those wires.
I do have one more question. Do you know where the parking brake wire is located? Tried searching and can’t find the right one. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
I do have one more question. Do you know where the parking brake wire is located? Tried searching and can’t find the right one. Thanks.
Glad to hear you got it going. As for the parking brake, sorry I did not need it so I’m not sure where it is located. Are you planning to use a backup camera?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Glad to hear you got it going. As for the parking brake, sorry I did not need it so I’m not sure where it is located. Are you planning to use a backup camera?
I did put in an Alpine backup camera. Works well. Fortunately, you can just ground the parking brake wire so I didn’t have to find it. Thanks for the reply.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top