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Discussion Starter #1
Codes are
002b44
002b37

002b57
002796

Also a 002B59
Car is 07 e63 with 36.7k miles. And good educated guesses? Thank guys.
 

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last guy that had that same set of codes went through quite the ordeal....

 

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Discussion Starter #3
last guy that had that same set of codes went through quite the ordeal....

yeah just found that thread... did anyone get the same set of codes with a more fortunate outcome?
 

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yeah just found that thread... did anyone get the same set of codes with a more fortunate outcome?
My outcome wasn't that bad :) lol
Thinking back now what a pain in the *** this car was.
Do you have rough idle when first started up? Does it get better after a while of idling? Or when engine is warmer? My spring was beginning to break when I had these symptoms.
One coil of the spring broke off and was hanging out in a thank god non volatile spot in the valve cover area. And the lifter was not moving until it was pushed on a good few times by the cam shaft, thus the engine would run well again (no misfiring.)

It was the intake valve, so I was able to look thru the throttle body and I was able to see it Not Moving like all the other valves. If it had been the exhaust valve - I wouldn't know.

Mind you - You Can diagnose this with a compression tester. I did have the compression leak failing (drastically) for the first few revs when cold compared to the other cylinders.

I think that makes two members now that have some work to do - let the games begin.
 

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Those are just misfire codes which can have multiple causes, not just spring failure. Last time I had those codes for cylinder 2 it ended up being a bad coil pack which I fixed in 5 minutes by replacing the coil pack.

Start with the simple and easy stuff first. 1)Clear the codes, turn the engine on evaluate if its still misfiring and re-scan for codes, see if the misfire persists on same cylinder.
2) If misfire persists swap the coil and plug, and re-check
3) Report back


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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
thanx for the reassurance, I ordered a set of coils and plugs since Im due for the service. i was gonna cheap out and reuse the coils but i have a feeling after 12 years many of these coils might not be reusable once out.

i've been doing a few resets for the thermostat code too since last year so i will have a competent "master tech turned Indy" guy i trust do all the work. just gonna flat bed it to his shop early in the morning and hope that i don't have to uber home. LOL

My gut tells me it's the coils, because this morning it was idling for the first 2 min with no vibration but it still went into limp mode once it started to get rough. It dosent feel like anything mechanical because it doesnt feel consistent enough. But what do I know, I dont have the socket to take the plug out nor do i have the time this winter.

This car can be a pain in the *** for something i drive less than 500 miles on per year but selling it for it's market value is just doesn't make sense to me.

so i will keep it forever or until it has classic muscle car status.

Those are just misfire codes which can have multiple causes, not just spring failure. Last time I had those codes for cylinder 2 it ended up being a bad coil pack which I fixed in 5 minutes by replacing the coil pack.

Start with the simple and easy stuff first. 1)Clear the codes, turn the engine on evaluate if its still misfiring and re-scan for codes, see if the misfire persists on same cylinder.
2) If misfire persists swap the coil and plug, and re-check
3) Report back


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm just gonnaplay it save
My outcome wasn't that bad :) lol
Thinking back now what a pain in the *** this car was.
Do you have rough idle when first started up? Does it get better after a while of idling? Or when engine is warmer? My spring was beginning to break when I had these symptoms.
One coil of the spring broke off and was hanging out in a thank god non volatile spot in the valve cover area. And the lifter was not moving until it was pushed on a good few times by the cam shaft, thus the engine would run well again (no misfiring.)

It was the intake valve, so I was able to look thru the throttle body and I was able to see it Not Moving like all the other valves. If it had been the exhaust valve - I wouldn't know.

Mind you - You Can diagnose this with a compression tester. I did have the compression leak failing (drastically) for the first few revs when cold compared to the other cylinders.

I think that makes two members now that have some work to do - let the games begin.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Reporting back for anyone who might be concerned or have similar issues.

My problem have been solved by installing new plugs and new coils in cyl 3.

car is smoother, no error code after half an hour of driving.

I was lucky it happened on such an accessible cyl. as opposed to cyl 10, 5, 9, 4, or almost everything on the driver'side.
 

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Change your coils. I had similar issues so I changed the coils and plugs, ran like a completely different car
 

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So I guess misfires are going around. I decided to take my car for a walk yesterday. About three block out of the driveway I got a misfire on #4 and reduced power. I swapped #4 with #3 and the misfire moved, the coil is on order.

I was looking at the plugs and #3 looks a little rich? #4 of course was rich because it was not firing. They are NGK, anyone have thoughts on the condition and brand? And at least BamaM5er thinks new coils and plugs should be done. One last note, I'm planning on leaving the cover off for easy future service anything I may no t be considering other than it just gets in the way?
933602
933603
933604
 

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Err.. how can a plug be rich if it was not firing?

But yes those electrodes show significant wear. Wouldn't be surprised if changing plugs solves all your issues. I'm a bit skeptical of failing coils.
 

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I guess the unburned or poorly burned fuel? At 800 rpm maybe not every firing is missed just enough too cause a vibration and set the code. I am more used to seeing a conventional electrode but it did look warn to me. I can put it on the list for the future. I moved the coil and the fault moved so that's the lead I am going to follow.

I agree that coils are pretty simple devices and should rarely fail. I compared the measurements between the two and they were close. They only thing that I could add is that taking resistances measurements can be misleading. Due to the high voltages that are used during the firing cycle it would be hard to test the insulation with conventional methods. Add to that the enemy of insulation is heat. Now stick your coil inside of a head and the troubles may start. I should get my hands on a megohm meter and test the coils for fun. It can only go up to 1000volts but would be a better test than a passive ohm test. If I had to guess I could go start the car now and the coil would work until it got hot.

On another interesting note. ECS only sells sets of coils for north of $700. Rock auto lists the most expensive coil as economy. I of course got the only one that O'Reilly auto lists and it was half as much as NAPA.
 

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Well the new coil is in and the car is back on fire, I took it for a walk. I love holding the wheel spin all the way through second gear, as long as you can keep it straight!

Is there a spark plug thread? We all used to geek out about plugs when I was a kid. I guess mostly there are conventional electrodes and dual from NGK. I have never thought the fancy materials like Iridium really mean much.
 
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