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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm hoping there is a simple procedure on how to fix this...

Using the remote or the central lock, my driver's door will not unlock. All other doors work perfectly.

It won't unlock manually with the key in the door, and it won't even unlock when I pull on the inside door handle. (When I pull on the inside handle the lock goes up, but goes right back down once I release the handle.)

Is it deadlocked? Is the actuator gone? Any ideas if 3rd party extended warranty will cover this?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Anyone know a trick on how to get the door open? If I can at least do that I can get the panel off to look at the actuator.

Trust me...it doesn't look quite so cool to do a "General Lee" through the driver's window on an M5...
 

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Anyone know a trick on how to get the door open? If I can at least do that I can get the panel off to look at the actuator.

Trust me...it doesn't look quite so cool to do a "General Lee" through the driver's window on an M5...
How about rolling down the window? Maybe you can see if something has come unattached or at least trip out the actuator.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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So if I understand correctly, the key / power system will not unlock the door at all - doesn't even raise the lock button.

But when you pull the door handle, the lock button goes up and then right back down.

And if you pull on the inside door handle while pushing the door, I'm guessing it goes nowhere.

There is good and bad news here. The bad news is that there really is no way other than what you have already tried to open the door except through the panel. BMW locks cannot be jimmied.

The good news is that you can probably get the interior door panel off without damaging it. You'll end up breaking a bunch of the clips that hold it on, but you should be able to get it off.

If this interests you (instead of taking it to a dealer) let me know and I'll walk you through it.

d-
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How about rolling down the window? Maybe you can see if something has come unattached or at least trip out the actuator.
Regards,
Jerry

I can get the windows to go down, but no luck. It's headed to the dealer tomorrow. I'm just hoping they can get it open without needing to cut up my interior.

I'll reply with what happens. Wish my interior luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The good news is that you can probably get the interior door panel off without damaging it. You'll end up breaking a bunch of the clips that hold it on, but you should be able to get it off.

If this interests you (instead of taking it to a dealer) let me know and I'll walk you through it.

I do have an extended warranty, but not sure if that will cover this or not. I'm hoping that it will...

I'd be very interested in getting the help. Do you have instructions written out how to get that off, or how would you want to walk through this?
 

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I do have an extended warranty, but not sure if that will cover this or not. I'm hoping that it will...

I'd be very interested in getting the help. Do you have instructions written out how to get that off, or how would you want to walk through this?
I'll just write them here for you. Frankly, I was just feeling a bit lazy if you were just intending to let the dealer handle it :)

Unfortunately, as I got to step #9 I realized that the front door panels cannot be removed from the inside without destroying at least the airvent portion - there is a screw hidden inside the airvent that can only be accessed with the door open. The rear doors don't have the vent, so they can (sometimes) be removed.

Since I was mostly done, I finished the directions in case you wanted them.

Sorry,

Doug


The short version is this: If the inside and outside door handles won't physically open the door, then the dealer will cut off your trim - they aren't going to go to the effort of trying to save it, especially if you have a warranty or they can charge you for it.

I'm assuming you've never taken a trim panel off, so I'll try to remember all the steps / tricks. You'll need to take the trim panel off to fix it anyway since the latch mechanism is inside the door.

Here's the disclaimer: you will probably (75% chance) break some part of your door trim doing this. It might be the wood trim, could be the plastic airvent, but you likely will break something. On the other hand, if the dealer is going to cut a hole in it then that is a 100% chance of damage.

1. Disconnect battery negative lead
2. Make sure you did #1 correctly.
3. Watch this video. Twice.
4. You may want to remove your wood trim. It pops out if you can get a little purchase behind it. Remember, it is lacquered wood - if you bend it much it will crack, so be patient and take your time. I highly recommend you get this off even if you are taking it to a dealer.
5. Behind the door handle is a small screw cover. Pop it out to expose the star drive screw. Remove the screw.
6. Pop out the window switch. You should be able to get under the flange that runs around it. The flange is fragile, so if it is stuck tight then leave it for now. You'll be pulling hard later, however, so it is best if you are able to remove it now and disconnect the wires.
7. Starting at the back top of the door pry the leather upper away from the window. It is held on by several tabs along the length, but you should be able to give a sharp tug and pull it free. Work you way along the length of the door and separate the whole top. If it pops itself back on again use shims to keep it out.
8. Did you disconnect the battery? You are about to shove your hand in by the airbag, so if you haven't already, climb out, open the trunk and disconnect the battery! :)
9. Give a good hard yank on the door pull (the thing you pull to close the door, not the handle you use to open the door). This piece is intended to be removed vertically, but we can't really do that on your door, now can we? So pull. Hard. A quick hard burst, not long sustained pressure. There will be no mistaking when you have it off.
10. At the rear of the door, just below the wood trim level, there are 2 plastic "christmas trees" that hold the door panel on. Wedge your hand (or a longer narrower object such as a pry bar) down behind the door panel and pop these 2 clips. Be careful not to nick the airbag.
11. Work your way along the entire outside of the door, going counterclockwise from top back edge, down, then forward and up the leading edge. There are 8 or 9 total. Your gaskets will be holding the door panels in place, so don't expect this to be a cake walk. It will be tough and I sincerely hope you have small fingers.
12. With all of the clips popped, the top separated, and the door handle clip disengaged, you should be able to pull the door panel up. Don't go too far because you midrange and your courtesy lights are still connected (and possibly your window switches too). Unplug the mid and the window switches, and feed the courtesy lamp out of the hole.
13. Put door panel somewhere to recover from it's traumatic abuse. Replace all the broken clips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You just scared the crap out of me...so it's going to the dealer. I'm saying Hail Marys all night long to hope the extended warranty will cover the cost to fix, and the cost to fix all of the crap that gets broken while it's being fixed...

If I'm not covered, then I'll work on these steps and hope for the 25% chance that I won't be posting a WTB interior driver door panel.

Thanks for the help
 

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I wish I could have been more help. People have successfully removed the rear doors in this situation, but that darn screw in the air vent is the real problem in the front door.

Take a flashlight and look in through the vents. If you can see and get at the screw then give it a try, otherwise I think you need a new door :(

I really hope your warranty covers it so you don't lose a day removing a door panel!

d-
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just got her back from the dealer. Double good news..

They were somehow able to get the interior panel off w/o any damage. (Talked to the supervisor, it was either with their diagnostic system, or they pulled the panel away from the window and used a tool to pop it.)

Second piece of good news is that the 3rd party warranty did cover replacement. Walked out of there for $100. :M5launch:

Thanks for the help, but I'm glad I didn't need to use it! :cheers:
 

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Real good news. I once check on the price to replace a front door panel for a complete leather option in carmel leather (due to staining of the door pull), and the dealer told me it was nearly $2000! Of course, the door pull are not replaceable by themselves, you have to buy the complete panel.

BTW, Doug, do you recomend pulling the neg bat terminal if you are removing this panel to replace speaker drivers? I notice the BSW guys don't even mention it in their video.
 

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Yeah, you really don't want to have to replace one-off leather covered pieces if you can help it :)

For a simple speaker replacement on a car where the door panel can be easily removed, No, I would not disconnect the battery either. The only reason I wanted him to do so in this case is because he was likely to be causing stresses on the door and/or fumbling blindly behind the door panel and could accidentally set it off. A typical door panel removal presents little stress to the door so does not require the extra safety precaution.

d-
 

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I would like to know why your door lock did not work with the central locking system? I am having the same exact issues with my passenger-side back door, all of the doors locks and unlocks fine except for that door. It has remained lock and it is now becoming a pain in the *****, because that is the side I usually keep my daughter's car seat and now she has to sit behind me. I have really long legs so driving has become so difficult now... Any thoughts or ideas please Help..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi -

It ended up being the lock actuator. It went bad in my driver's door.

The dealer was able to take the interior panel off without an issue, and my extended warranty did cover the work.

Hope yours works out well.

Reid
 
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