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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there I have joined a little while now, purchased a damaged E60 M5 that had minor frontal damage, bumper and radiator reinforcement pretty much. Radiator and condenser setup got shifted and the radiator fan barely touched the crank pulley.

Since then I replaced the front reinforcement, acquired a front bumper, buttoned up the front of the vehicle and popped a battery in as the original one was dead. Tried starting and won't get any effort to start. Lots of messages coming up on the iDrive, all associated to headlights, low washer bottle, EDC fault, and front PDCs, low washer bottle etc. I initially got low coolant level as I tried starting without filling the coolant but then decided to fill both power steering and coolant to get those messages gone. I know there is a process to bleed the coolant but I am thinking the vehicle should crank over at least. Also I currently don't have the front bumper and headlights fitted. All interior seems to be functional.

Car has been down for some months, possibly a year and when I got it the rear driverside footwell was wet. To my knowledge it has never been in a flood and several persons indicated that after the front collision the vehicle was still also able to start and move on it's own.

Any thoughts of where I can begin looking for answers?

I do work at the local dealership so have access to some stuff but still I am really trying to do this as a DIYer, I am not technical like many of you guys, I am mechanical from working on many nissan vehicles but I know these have more electrical aspects that I am not as familiar with. BTW I am in the Caribbean and vehicle is right hand drive.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Decided to speak with the guys at work so will be taking it over to them on Monday, will let you all know how it goes.
 

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Wet floor on the RH side rear is typical for an E60 that has water damage from a clogged drain on the FIREWALL. Not sure with RHD cars, but on LHD cars, the electronics box is on the RH side and that often clogs up with leaves and dirt, especially when parked outside for a while. That electronics box may have been flooded and the modules in there my have been damaged by water. It seems that another member here had their SMG module with corroded connector pins. Bad SMG module will prevent starting. The other module is the PCM/DME.
 

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PDC disconnected, EDC, radiator level, air temp,Headlamp faults, cooling fan, etc will not prevent the engine from starting. I’ve had all these disconnected (bumper and front end removed) on my 08 SMG as I’ve been doing work on the engine for rod bearings. The engine WILL start and run even without either of the accessory belts on. I’ve done this on 2 cars so you can be assured that’s not causing your no start condition.
 

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Hi there I have joined a little while now, purchased a damaged E60 M5 that had minor frontal damage, bumper and radiator reinforcement pretty much. Radiator and condenser setup got shifted and the radiator fan barely touched the crank pulley.

Since then I replaced the front reinforcement, acquired a front bumper, buttoned up the front of the vehicle and popped a battery in as the original one was dead. Tried starting and won't get any effort to start. Lots of messages coming up on the iDrive, all associated to headlights, low washer bottle, EDC fault, and front PDCs, low washer bottle etc. I initially got low coolant level as I tried starting without filling the coolant but then decided to fill both power steering and coolant to get those messages gone. I know there is a process to bleed the coolant but I am thinking the vehicle should crank over at least. Also I currently don't have the front bumper and headlights fitted. All interior seems to be functional.

Car has been down for some months, possibly a year and when I got it the rear driverside footwell was wet. To my knowledge it has never been in a flood and several persons indicated that after the front collision the vehicle was still also able to start and move on it's own.

Any thoughts of where I can begin looking for answers?

I do work at the local dealership so have access to some stuff but still I am really trying to do this as a DIYer, I am not technical like many of you guys, I am mechanical from working on many nissan vehicles but I know these have more electrical aspects that I am not as familiar with. BTW I am in the Caribbean and vehicle is right hand drive.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
can the engine be turned by hand? ( you need to remove spark plugs ). That will tell you if there is something damaged inside that causes internal friction.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wet floor on the RH side rear is typical for an E60 that has water damage from a clogged drain on the FIREWALL. Not sure with RHD cars, but on LHD cars, the electronics box is on the RH side and that often clogs up with leaves and dirt, especially when parked outside for a while. That electronics box may have been flooded and the modules in there my have been damaged by water. It seems that another member here had their SMG module with corroded connector pins. Bad SMG module will prevent starting. The other module is the PCM/DME.
Thanks on Monday it is going to my office to start running some diagnostics. Will let you all know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
can the engine be turned by hand? ( you need to remove spark plugs ). That will tell you if there is something damaged inside that causes internal friction.
I didn't try yet, I am going to leave it to the guys at the dealer. They said it should be something simple but let's see. It's the only local E60 M5 and only about four in the country, I am hoping for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got the car started today after some troubleshooting. Seems both DME and SMG Module got flooded and shorted a relay. Relay was also running non-stop and draining the battery. We grounded the relay separately and it started right up but the vehicle even though would show R when shifted to reverse would go no where and then pop an error. Upon removing the DME and SMG modules by the firewall you could see that they got wet. I opened the DME and cleaned it thoroughly with contact cleaner and gave it a good once over and put it back together tonight to try tomorrow but upon cleaning the SMG module I found that one or two of the pins were brittle. I saw several on Ebay and wondering if I can purchase anyone with the same numbers as mine, you guys thoughts?

My numbers are 7 840 481, GETRAG 247.0.0305.35, SIEMENS 5WP22375AN.
 

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Well good to hear that you found the culprit, this is just like what desmo01 had in his car he bought for cheap. You should look at his thread since I uploaded a few picture of the drain that gets back up. The dirt accumulates quickly and clogs the drain. This happens quite a bit and will kill a more cars as newer owners likely leave them in garaged. You may want to remove the rear carpet so it can fully dry, otherwise you will get mold and mildew smell in the car.

I understand any M5/M6 SMG module will work, obviously one with the same part number would be best. I seem to recall that the DME has seals around the connector shells, which should have prevented the terminal corrosion problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I am picking up the DME and MSG ECUs that I bought tomorrow only to find out that they won't work. The guys at work told me that they are coded to the VIN. They say when I plug them in the car will tumble and not start. I think my main culprit was a flooded DME, which I cleaned thoroughly but the SMG ECU pins were brittle so I am wondering if I can at least try the stock DME along with the replacement SMG ECU. They told me after I cleaned the ECU it is now not starting at all which is strange as all I would have used was a brush and contact cleaner. Does anyone know of company I can send my DME, SMG ECU to along with keys and CAS to have them cloned? I am also inquiring on price of new replacement units.
 

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Smg can be swapped between cars, no coding, vin, programming necessary. Adaptations maybe but that has to be done on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks, any idea why the cluster would show the gears being able to be selected but when given light throttle their is no movement nor any error, reverse or drive?

As for the DME will be sending to DUDMD hopefully tuesday via courier to get cloned. I thought they would also need the CAS and keys but so far it seems to be only original damaged DME and used replacement. Will let you guys know how it goes.
 
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