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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10" in a custom enclosure along with a PPI monster amp that I never installed in my lat E39. The problem is, I actually like the stock DSP system in my M5! I do want to add the sub. Is there a relatively simple way to add it and the amplifier? Money is no big deal but I do not want to tear up the car. I am into fairly mellow music, no rap, no crazy techno, etc.

What do you stereo guys think?
 

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I'm in the same boat as you, I have an assload of high end stereo euipment that I bought thinking I would use them somewhere down the road. I am preparing to do a complete upgrade of the sound system removing the DSP all together.

Has anyone ever left the DSP amp and just upgraded the speakers or will it only work with the factory nokia's?
 

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It's a seperate peice completly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
To answer both of the above replies, I have done a complete system in a DSP equipped E39. I had everything removed. Amp, speakers, sub enclosure, head unit (MID), cd changer, in dash cd, all gone. Replaced with an Alpine head unit and amplifier system+Focal Utopia speakers. The end result wasn't all that much better than my M5 sounds like now. Put another way, all the effort and money resulted in a modest improvement in sound. Maybe I just don't care anymore, but I wouldn't do it again. I would like to add some bass though.
 

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I beleive if you just add the 10" Woofers the factory amp should provide you with an substantial increase in base. I used the Exact same Dual Voice coil Kevlar 10's that are in the M5. Call 800-909-PART and ask for internet parts.

I did the same thing with my DSP E39 530ia. the base was about 70% of the M5. About 350% of the Nokias
 

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As phase one of my install I bolted on two JL Audio amps, Diamond subs with 2-way components in the front to the OEM head unit/changer/DSP. Frankly, garbage in garbage out, so it wasn't worth the money I spent. So within 3 months I'd ripped all that out and did it properly, with new head unit, new changer, bypass DSP, new door builds etc etc etc.

In conclusion bolting on works, but a new head unit will actually make a lot more of a difference in my view.

Roger
 

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rogbacon said:
As phase one of my install I bolted on two JL Audio amps, Diamond subs with 2-way components in the front to the OEM head unit/changer/DSP. Frankly, garbage in garbage out, so it wasn't worth the money I spent. So within 3 months I'd ripped all that out and did it properly, with new head unit, new changer, bypass DSP, new door builds etc etc etc.

In conclusion bolting on works, but a new head unit will actually make a lot more of a difference in my view.

Roger
Crap, that is what I was afraid of. :( I think the stock audio is pathetic. What did you do for the screen/nav?

R
 

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Well to be fair I am really fussy about sound quality, running a monster Krell system at home, but I do stand by what I say about the limitations of sticking with the original head unit from a pure sound quality perspective.

On my install, OEM NAV is retained and feeds a mono speaker under the dash powered by the stock amp/DSP; there is a switch to alternate the steering wheel controls from the NAV volume to the volume of the audio system.

Only slight problem with this is that you can't hear the pathetic mono speaker belting out instructions when you have the main system cranked up.......I can live with this given the sound quality achieved.......
 

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I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10D being driven by the stock subwoofer amps. The sub is mounted to a board which covers the hole where the M mobility compressor lives. Sounds much better than stock.
 

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Paul Ho said:
I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect 10D being driven by the stock subwoofer amps. The sub is mounted to a board which covers the hole where the M mobility compressor lives. Sounds much better than stock.
Pic's?
 

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I want to run better sub-woofer speakers powered by a separate amp. I do want to keep the DSP, etc... to minimize changes. I first tried using the speaker wires that went to the OEM subs as input to the added amp (amp can take line signals and pre amp signals). That did not sound good at all. I am not sure if I should try using the same inputs, but as pre-amp input? I don't want to blow anything up.

Now has anyone tried this.... splicing the head pre-amp signals off to the added sub-woofer amp. The idea here it to still provide signal to the DSP/amp and have signal to the sub amp. If anyone did this, did it work? how well? which wires are the pre-amp signals to tap off of.

Any help of ideas are most welcomed and appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
 

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don't know if this has been answered or not, but is it even worth it to JUST replace the stock speakers with better ones? That would be a relatively painless, easy, and 'cut-free' way of doing things.
 

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jackiem5 said:
don't know if this has been answered or not, but is it even worth it to JUST replace the stock speakers with better ones? That would be a relatively painless, easy, and 'cut-free' way of doing things.
I was wondering the same. A change in speakers almost always brings about the greatest audible change in a home audio system, and I would expect the same to be true in a car audio system.

On a related note, if someone is serious about upgrading their system, they should pick your system based on their tastes (otherwise they may end up with an AMG when they wanted an M ;)). Dynamics, speed, transparency, warmth, detail, etc. rogbacon has a krell system at home that may suit him perfectly, but I'm sure there are tube/vinyl nuts for whom his system just wouldn't be their cup of tea. Obviously the differences are going to be more subtle in car audio (although I think they do make tube amps for cars) and the listener would likely be less critical, but different brand speakers, amps, head units, etc. do have different sound characteristics, some of which will suit one person better than another.

I thought about upgrading, but my home audio obsession has taught me that there are few areas in which the law of diminishing returns applies as strongly as it does in audio systems, and I came to the conclusion that I'm not going to be able to appreciate the improvement with all the "background noise" in the car (windows down, gas pedal down :)). Now if I could only figure out how to install some shakti stones in my M5. . .
 

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I replaced all of the speakers with MB Quart Preimium units. I disassembled the rear speakers to trace which wires went to the midrange and tweeter. The Quarts are a 'brighter' sound presence. The OEM sub-woofers are dual coil units at 4 ohm. Unfortunately my new JL's need to be bridged to become 4 ohm and the Alpine amp is dual channel. I need to some how combine input/output to get this to work. Ideas????
 

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WannaM5 - you're absolutely right about diminishing returns, and you are absolutely right about different systems appealing to different people. Whilst my car set-up is good, I would never describe it as especially good value for money!!

Roger
 

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rogbacon said:
WannaM5 - you're absolutely right about diminishing returns, and you are absolutely right about different systems appealing to different people. Whilst my car set-up is good, I would never describe it as especially good value for money!!

Roger
Yup - on the other hand, at least with car audio you don't have to worry about the dreaded W.A.F. My wife still doesn't understand why my 'stats need to be so big and stand so far out from the wall. Thank god she doesn't know how much they cost!
 
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