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Discussion Starter #1
It’s proving to be a real pain. Got the old one out by wrestling and twisting and pulling. Held it up to the new one when I was done and it definitely wasn’t the same shape haha.

trying to feed the new one down from the top ( It bolts into a short line coming off the master cylinder). I can get it down far enough where it pokes through the wheel well/rubber gromet but can’t seem to feed it any further with all the bends In the line and and other lines in the way.

suggestions/tips/how-to?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Well sometimes after you make a post the car gods cut you a break. Thought to myself....this is a German car...what’s the most bass akward way this line could be run. And What do you know, got me to this point. So I think I might have it. Have to disconnect a small line coming off the Reservoir but that will then allow me to get it back where it need to attach up top and swing the bottom around.
939501

939503
 

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Damn that looks like a pain. How did that happen to the old brake line. I don’t have a tips for you since I haven’t done one on our cars. All I have to say is remove what you have to cause you don’t want to get the new line out of shape and have a hard time setting and threading the screw into the pump or opposite side. Good luck man
 

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Why don’t you just do it in situ with copper pipe that’s what I got my shop to do far cheaper and just as effective
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
how it happened? Not 100% sure but I’m guessing it was during the wrestling match getting that line out of the module to be sent off to module masters. It probably slid or rubbed against something when it rebounded back and the bottom got gouged.

New OEM line was only $50. I didn’t want to half *** it. I always try to go OEM on this car unless something is better than OEM. I also didn’t want to screw around bending my own line and flaring it etc. more tools more opportunity for error. The OEM while stiff as a boner you know you have the right bends And a good flare (after you go through the headache of routing it)

but it’s done. Filled the res up and will check for leaks in the AM. Then to bleed everything Again with INPA. I’m hoping I don’t have to screw around calibrating my ABS/DSC since I had to unplug it again to get the line where it needed to go. I can take care of it if I have to bc I did it when I put my rebuilt module in....just another step to do


939537


939538
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the good news is new line is ran and bled all 4 corners until there was absolutely zero bubbles (Ran the bleed sequence for each corner bout 2-3 times per corner). I used INPA with car ignition on....not running. When I was finished pedal was rock hard.

went to take it for a drive an hour later and start it and pedal feels mushy. I have brakes but the pedal basically goes to the floor. This only happens while engine is running. I can turn it off and a few little pumps of the pedal and it gets rock hard to where it won’t even push down.

what gives? Air in the master cylinder? Wouldn’t filling up the res each time I ran a bleed sequence also be bleeding the master cylinder?
 

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Is it braking well though? I have the same issue but car brakes perfectly even on spirited mountain drives its just that the pedal is mushy and sometimes goes all the way to the floor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Eh I don’t know if I’d saw well. I tried slamming on the brakes once or twice but it seemed like they wouldn’t slam hard enough to kick on ABS. I mean I stopped it just doesn’t feel like I’m used to and not for an M5. I recall head bobbing braking before my DSC module died.

I’m thinking about maybe try bleeding the fronts again the old fashioned way 2 man technique (open bleeder, pump Pedal, close bleeder let off pedal) And see what I get. Only thing I’m not doing is using a pressure bleeder. the bleeding I just did was the best bleeding pedal feel Ive felt, even before replacing the line the bleed didn’t feel this solid....but the pedal still felt better While driving the car before replacing the leaking line. I don’t get it. I don’t think the engine would need to be running when bleeding but that’s the only time the pedal turns to mush now
 

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Not sure how you bled since you say you didn't use a pressure bleeder and didn't have 2 people do the job. You cannot bleed by only running the abs pump(sounds like what you did). You must use a pressure bleeder. And this is one task where ista beats inpa. Much faster routine and less fluid loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I never used a bleeder on this car. I’ve done it prior using INPA and method using a hose/bottle with a few inches of fluid so no air returns. However using INPA it doesn’t appear fluid ever goes back bc the DCS module regulates during the process. I Did it after I replaced my rebuilt ABS Unit which had all the lines disconnected until the unit was sent back to me to reinstall and then I bled them. Pedal had a Pretty solid feel after doing it then...But had the leak in the line so I had to replace that line.) INPA tells you when to open the bleeder and then does a sequence of pumping breaks/ letting off, pumping to 80%/letting off, running the ABS module...does that sequence 3 times then tells you to close the bleeder. Doing this method I got it to bleed with no bubbles coming out the line on all 4 corners (had a guy monitoring the hose). last sequence I couldn’t even push the pedal an inch on the driver front (last corner) bc the pressure was so solid. But the test drive as hour later it was mushy...turn off car, pump pedal and it’s fully hard again.

I have ISTA also so I assume I could use that but never tried so I’m a little unsure which tab/menu to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ran bleed routine on ISTA this time on the fronts. Odd ISTA really doesn’t do much itself (compared to INPA). ISTA You click the button and it sounds like it just opens the valves on the DSC then tells you to push the pedal 5 times to the floor. I did 10 times (on both fronts) for good measure and had a very hard pedal. No bubbles. Took it for a drive and I’m happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Cuco....since you said you were having same issue one last follow up. Brakes are now 100% perfect.

so to follow up what I did after running the bleed on all 4 with INPA and still having a mushy pedal. I opened up ISTA and ran the brake bleed procedure on the front corners (slipped past the rear brakes procedures) and noticed an improvement. INSTA must open another set of valves or something. So decided to do the rears today with INSTA. Right rear pedal was pretty firm but could be pumped. After the rear right I noticed the DSC calibration procedure in ISTA so I ran it (it doesn’t require any bleeding...it basically actuated the valves and Calibrated then. It sounded like an electric drill torquing in a screw. I think this is the main thing that cured the situation. I think this must pressurize The DSC). Once I moved to the left rear To run the procedure in ISTA I couldn’t even pump the pedal it was so hard. Closed it all up and went for a drive. Perfect brake feel and it gets firm close to the top During driving unlike before.
 
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