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Discussion Starter #1
Hello - I have a 2000 M5 that I believe has a drive shaft flex-disc that is going away and I'm trying to confirm the source of the problem. The two syptoms are:

1) When I take off from a stop sign, the clutch/drive-train feels a bit "spongy" , like there is some wind-up in the drive-train.

2) When I accelerate at highway speeds in mid-to-high torque range, there is a quick knocking noise under the center console that quiets as I get out of optimal torque range. It sounds like a u-joint type noise I experienced in an older American car.

Does this sounds like the guibo? Also, If I replace it, is it a tough job and is there anything else I should replace along with the disc itself?

Thanks very much,

Michael
 

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If there is any vibration, clunking noises etc coming from under the car that are transient, the first place to look is the guibo. How many miles are on the car? Depending on how the car was driven, those things go out from 80k to 120k, so if you are that range it might be wise to replace it. From what you are describing, it sounds like a guibo.
You might also have worn engine and tranny mounts, as a guibo wont make anything feel spongy or loose, it will just clatter bang and vibrate. Check the mounts, and if there are signs of flexing (wrinkles in the material) they are on their way out too.
I havent done a guibo on an E39 before, but in many other cars you need to remove the exhaust to get to it. In an E36 I remember it being to the tune of $500 with labor, but that was in Cali with high hourly shop rates. It is something you can do yourself though.
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Bren,

Thanks very much for the response and info. The car has about 65k on it and seems to be in otherwise great shape. The clutch feels solid, the noises are definitely transient, and I hear no other major-sounding clunks or bangs. The spongy sensation I mentioned is very slight and occurs just as the clutch engages and then disappears, but there is no slipping or associated noises or vibrations I can detect.

Are there other things in the drive shaft I should do at the same time? I am going to do it myself as my local dealer wants $650 plus incidentals to do it. I'm not a great wrench or near it, but I can figure things out halfway decently and I think I can get a friend of mine to donate a little shop time to access a lift. I appreciate your advice - I'm just trying to avoid getting into a real mess with it.

Thanks again,

Michael
 

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El Gozer said:
Hi Bren,

Thanks very much for the response and info. The car has about 65k on it and seems to be in otherwise great shape. The clutch feels solid, the noises are definitely transient, and I hear no other major-sounding clunks or bangs. The spongy sensation I mentioned is very slight and occurs just as the clutch engages and then disappears, but there is no slipping or associated noises or vibrations I can detect.

Are there other things in the drive shaft I should do at the same time? I am going to do it myself as my local dealer wants $650 plus incidentals to do it. I'm not a great wrench or near it, but I can figure things out halfway decently and I think I can get a friend of mine to donate a little shop time to access a lift. I appreciate your advice - I'm just trying to avoid getting into a real mess with it.

Thanks again,

Michael
Mine was bad at 51k when I got my clutch changed 2 weeks ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, lwebb12, I hope the problem is the guibo since I think I can handle that fix. From yours going at 51k, I guess mine at 65k is within reason. I don't do much in the way of launching the car hard, but I do run it as intended. It's good to know it's not to out of line to have to replace it. Did a dealer fix yours? Do you mind saying what the part(s) costs?

Thanks again,

Michael
 

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El Gozer said:
Thanks for the info, lwebb12, I hope the problem is the guibo since I think I can handle that fix. From yours going at 51k, I guess mine at 65k is within reason. I don't do much in the way of launching the car hard, but I do run it as intended. It's good to know it's not to out of line to have to replace it. Did a dealer fix yours? Do you mind saying what the part(s) costs?

Thanks again,

Michael
I believe it was 70-80 bucks, I use an independant shop. Dealers charge too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks!
 

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El Gozer said:
I want to say that it was replaced along with the clutch. It isn't a hard job, I just figured that since the had the tranny out and the driveshaft out they could go ahead and change it.

They did find my swaybar brackets broken, and I went ahead and installed the Beastpower brackets myself.

Good luck with your venture.
 

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El Gozer said:
The spongy sensation I mentioned is very slight and occurs just as the clutch engages and then disappears, but there is no slipping or associated noises or vibrations I can detect.

Are there other things in the drive shaft I should do at the same time? I am going to do it myself as my local dealer wants $650 plus incidentals to do it. I'm not a great wrench or near it, but I can figure things out halfway decently and I think I can get a friend of mine to donate a little shop time to access a lift. I appreciate your advice - I'm just trying to avoid getting into a real mess with it.

Thanks again,

Michael
Michael-
OK, that slight spongy sensation is most likely the driveshaft moving around some till it dampens itself out.
There is nothing else to do with the driveshaft while you are replacing the guibo. It uses that to dampen vibrations, so I dont think that there is any other maitenence that would be required on it.
If for any reason you remove the driveshaft, be sure to mark on the driveshaft and then on the input shaft to the diff. Some BMW's will go out of balance if you dont bolt it back up in the same spot.
While under there though, check for leaky rear diff seals, check the condition of the CV joints, and as said check the condition of the rear sway bar brackets. Check the condition of the tranny mounts too while you are under there, and the tranny fluid level. If you got it up in the air, why not poke around a little?
If you love to get on it, you'll wear out the guibo. It is a really dumb idea, but BMW has been using them for so long and they seem to be stuck in their ways.
Good luck replacing it! It shouldnt be too hard of a job, but in case I would buy a manual for the car (if you can find one, or do a search of the board to get a recomended one), so that way you torque everything down correctly.
:cheers:
 

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BmwNut said:
Michael-
OK, that slight spongy sensation is most likely the driveshaft moving around some till it dampens itself out.
There is nothing else to do with the driveshaft while you are replacing the guibo. It uses that to dampen vibrations, so I dont think that there is any other maitenence that would be required on it.
If for any reason you remove the driveshaft, be sure to mark on the driveshaft and then on the input shaft to the diff. Some BMW's will go out of balance if you dont bolt it back up in the same spot.
While under there though, check for leaky rear diff seals, check the condition of the CV joints, and as said check the condition of the rear sway bar brackets. Check the condition of the tranny mounts too while you are under there, and the tranny fluid level. If you got it up in the air, why not poke around a little?
If you love to get on it, you'll wear out the guibo. It is a really dumb idea, but BMW has been using them for so long and they seem to be stuck in their ways.
Good luck replacing it! It shouldnt be too hard of a job, but in case I would buy a manual for the car (if you can find one, or do a search of the board to get a recomended one), so that way you torque everything down correctly.
:cheers:
If needed I have the TIS and can provide one with instructions. I use it all the time since I do most of my work on the M5.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks to you all for the information and advice. I'm definitely more confident about the repair after the help you provided. I have a BMW manual that should be here today, so I think I'm covered there, but thanks so much again for the responses and information.

I'll post again after I get to work on it just to update.

:cheers:

Michael
 

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Also make sure and look at the exhaust cross brace/bracket. My pipes were hitting that bracket and its right under the console. If you take that bracket off, you will be able to see if the pipes were hitting.
I also had a real bad driveline vibration, no clunking , just a freakin bad vibration on accerlation. the dealer replaced the whole driveshaft. This repair took 3 trips to the dealer to properly diagnose and fix .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again!

Michael
 
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