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Bart,

Don´t you know that we aren´t supposed to bump threads?

;-)

Cheers!

David
 

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Hello David,
So is this group buy on?

It sounded like in reading the other thread that the MAFs that are being looked at are not an exact replacement (but would hopefully stay in place.) Is this true?

Would they work for me? My M is a 2002 (hee hee - I love finally being able to say that.):15:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Stickman said:
Hello David,
So is this group buy on?

It sounded like in reading the other thread that the MAFs that are being looked at are not an exact replacement (but would hopefully stay in place.) Is this true?

Would they work for me? My M is a 2002 (hee hee - I love finally being able to say that.):15:
Stickman,

Yes, a lot of board members are using these MAFs on their M5s. Please read the thread referenced in the first post in this thread for all the details.

(The thread you are reading now is just to inform of the main thread. We try to keep all the information collected in one place. You are welcome to post all questions there.)

David
 

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Ruffinit said:
Yea definitely in and have also sent you a PM! How do you know if you need the tool?? I'm a little confused on that! Thanks
Some people use pliers to turn the screws on the MAF housings. I don´t think that is the optimal method. It takes a long time, it will scratch the housings, and you run a slight but totally unecessary risk of getting metal particles into the air intake.

It is much better to get a tool that fits the heads of the screws. Some people already bought the torx bit that fit the screws on the MAF housings.

There are two kinds of screws found on M5 MAF housings: either 5-point or 6-point torx. Look at the screws that are on the MAF housings on your car, and look at all four screws as those do not have to be the same. 5-point and 6-point refer to the number of points in the star pattern of the screw heads.

David
 

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A very big thank you to David for organising the group buy on the MAF's. I've taken delivery of mine at the weekend and taken the (approximately) 2 minutes to change them out. I didn't feel the need to use the cable ties supplied; they hold in place very nicely just by virtue of the snug fit.

They have definitely made a significant difference. Moving off from cold no longer has the "hopping frog" effect at 2,000-3000 rpm and there is significantly more oomph above 4000 rpm.

I measured the L/H before and got between 90 and 98 in 2nd (as per the test procedure). Afterwards, I've been getting 130 or so (!). I still hadn't completed the 15 or miles for the engine maps to auto-adjust so I'll do the test again in a week or two.

For anyone about to order - I would recommend to obtain also the special torx bits to remove the MAF's if you don't already have them (only US$5 each after all). It makes the job very, very easy. Also, don't forget to check your own torx screws - I had a mix of 5 and 6 point screws for some reason so ordered both ....

Regards,

Gary.

DavidS said:
Some people use pliers to turn the screws on the MAF housings. I don´t think that is the optimal method. It takes a long time, it will scratch the housings, and you run a slight but totally unecessary risk of getting metal particles into the air intake.

It is much better to get a tool that fits the heads of the screws. Some people already bought the torx bit that fit the screws on the MAF housings.

There are two kinds of screws found on M5 MAF housings: either 5-point or 6-point torx. Look at the screws that are on the MAF housings on your car, and look at all four screws as those do not have to be the same. 5-point and 6-point refer to the number of points in the star pattern of the screw heads.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #15
grp said:
A very big thank you to David for organising the group buy on the MAF's. I've taken delivery of mine at the weekend and taken the (approximately) 2 minutes to change them out. I didn't feel the need to use the cable ties supplied; they hold in place very nicely just by virtue of the snug fit.

They have definitely made a significant difference. Moving off from cold no longer has the "hopping frog" effect at 2,000-3000 rpm and there is significantly more oomph above 4000 rpm.

I measured the L/H before and got between 90 and 98 in 2nd (as per the test procedure). Afterwards, I've been getting 130 or so (!). I still hadn't completed the 15 or miles for the engine maps to auto-adjust so I'll do the test again in a week or two.

For anyone about to order - I would recommend to obtain also the special torx bits to remove the MAF's if you don't already have them (only US$5 each after all). It makes the job very, very easy. Also, don't forget to check your own torx screws - I had a mix of 5 and 6 point screws for some reason so ordered both ....

Regards,

Gary.

Very glad it worked as it should, Gary!

Cheers!

David
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Group Buy for MAFs US$ 115 in Europe and US - still open

The GB is still open.

David
 

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David: I paypal'd for my MAFS but have not received them to date. Problem?

Steve
 

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TurboCarrera said:
David: I paypal'd for my MAFS but have not received them to date. Problem?

Steve
Steve,

Sorry about the delay.

Your MAFs are Boston, but not the torx bits. We should have gotten the torx bits earlier this week.

If you want to we can ship the MAFs now, and the torx bits in a few days.

Best Regs,

David
 

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David: thanks for the prompt reply. Hang onto to the MAFs until the torx arrive and consolidate the shipment.

Thanks again,

Steve
 
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