BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 64 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So after 2 weeks I got my car back from the body shop.

New facia, repainted entire nose and fixed a bad ding on the fender and a-pillar.

No accident, just a bad winter.

So, anyway, I go pick up the car and the owner says it had to be jumped a bunch of times, he thinks the batery is shot.

I said, well it has a brand new battery as of october and it NEVER has a problem starting.

So I find out they jumped it 7 or 8 times over the course of the work.

So, I jump it (whats the harm now) to drive it home. The nav doesn't work meaning the screen doesn't come on in any mode), the radio randomly turns off, the inner lights flicker and the car HAS to be jumped to start, otherwise it just clicks,.

Also, I had them install some different fogs (as one was broken). He said the connector needed to be changed and now my 'check highbeam' warning is on.

Any thoughts? I plan to take it to the dealer with my *** all lubed up if you guys can't help me at all.

Thanks for any and all help.

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,153 Posts
Drive it a for quite some time and let the battery recharge, everything should work out fine after it get's recharge...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,016 Posts
If it's a dead battery I would start looking at the fog lights as that is only thing that has changed and is electrical. Maybe a loose connecting to the battery also. Laidback could also be right they may have taken it for lots of short drives which would kill the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,016 Posts
I hope they jumped it from the engine bay and not directly on the battery?
I am not so sure about this, when I had a dead battery I tried jumping from a range rover from the engine bay and it did not work. A guy came out with a flat bed truck and he tried with one of those portable battery packs and that did not work. Flat bedded the car to the bmw garage who jumped it from X3 from the battery direct and it started first time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
936 Posts
I have also done it myself once, from the battery I mean, and no issues but I do know a guy, good friend, who fried the ECU by doing it.

I also know a guy who fried his nav and tuner by doing it.

Just a heads up :cheers:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm experienceing no start from an under the hood jump, but an imediate start when jumping it from the trunk.

Body shop guy said the car went dead before he messed with the fogs, but after he had the hood off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
931 Posts
I think the Body Shop F'ed your car up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,533 Posts
the m5 will get alot of electric gremilins if the battery is not fully charged it does tend to freak out. since you bought your battery in oct take your car in and have them do a parts warrenty as for the fog light connection you got to look at that your self that should not be a hard one to fix. oh i just realized you wrote highbeam ck your highbeam connection its either that or a bulb
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I will get the battery checked tonight to see if it is somehow dead/bad.

I talked to the dealer and they said that sometimes a new(er) battery can go bad for no reason and the no start and nave not comming on are symtoms of a bad battery.

This just sucks, I'm driving my inlaws taurus. Decidedly, not as cool as my M5.

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
936 Posts
Bob, just a thought, make sure the terminal connections are secure, I would remove them and refit making sure they are snug.

The M5 will not even attempt to start if it detects low voltage or a host of other items.

It happened to me once, turned the key and nothing, not even a click, no lights on the dash - worried the hell out of me! I disconnect the battery and reconnected tightly - everything was fine since, that's about 2 years ago.

Could be worth a try?

Richie.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,131 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'll give that a shot tonight when I have the battery tested.

I did notice the positive terminal under the hood is loose, but I assume it is isolated from anything that mght ground so being loose is probably OK, but I'll check that one out too.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll update this with whatever I find.

Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Just my opinion, but, as a professional tech, I can say the earlier responses about driving a car to recharge the battery are untrue. The car's alternator was never designed to fully recharge the battery. The only way to properly recharge a battery is to hook it up to a battery charger. The alternator is designed to power all of the electrical systems on the vehicle before sending any extra voltage to the battery. It doesn't really work properly to let the car idle for 1/2 hr. or drive it around. (although after a trip around the block, you may be able to start it up right after you shut it down, but not after the car sits overnight. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and hook up a battery charger, or, if you prefer, remove the battery from the car and recharge it. That is the proper way to handle this problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,517 Posts
Just my opinion, but, as a professional tech, I can say the earlier responses about driving a car to recharge the battery are untrue. The car's alternator was never designed to fully recharge the battery. The only way to properly recharge a battery is to hook it up to a battery charger. The alternator is designed to power all of the electrical systems on the vehicle before sending any extra voltage to the battery. It doesn't really work properly to let the car idle for 1/2 hr. or drive it around. (although after a trip around the block, you may be able to start it up right after you shut it down, but not after the car sits overnight. Disconnect the negative battery cable, and hook up a battery charger, or, if you prefer, remove the battery from the car and recharge it. That is the proper way to handle this problem.
This post is silliness - of course an alternator is designed to re-charge a battery. If it weren't you'd only be able to start your car X number of times and then the battery would be dead.

Furthermore, the typical alternator is sized well over the average amperage requirements of a vehicle - you'd have to turn pretty much everything on to exceed the alternator rating.

Lastly, your alternator provides 14.4V vs. the nominal 12.6V of a battery. This in an of itself is enough to reverse the chemical reaction that occurs when a battery discharges. It won't reverse it fully but neither will any other charger - that is just the nature of a lead acid battery.

I'm not sure who taught you that an alternator isn't sufficient to recharge your battery but I'd suggest you ask for a refund and / or clarification as to what they really meant.

Doug
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,517 Posts
So after 2 weeks I got my car back from the body shop.

New facia, repainted entire nose and fixed a bad ding on the fender and a-pillar.

No accident, just a bad winter.

So, anyway, I go pick up the car and the owner says it had to be jumped a bunch of times, he thinks the batery is shot.

I said, well it has a brand new battery as of october and it NEVER has a problem starting.

So I find out they jumped it 7 or 8 times over the course of the work.

So, I jump it (whats the harm now) to drive it home. The nav doesn't work meaning the screen doesn't come on in any mode), the radio randomly turns off, the inner lights flicker and the car HAS to be jumped to start, otherwise it just clicks,.

Also, I had them install some different fogs (as one was broken). He said the connector needed to be changed and now my 'check highbeam' warning is on.

Any thoughts? I plan to take it to the dealer with my *** all lubed up if you guys can't help me at all.

Thanks for any and all help.

Bob
1. Never let anyone else jumpstart your car. I just had my windshield replaced and in the process the guy killed my battery and jumped my car, incorrectly. He's now buying me a new nav system. If you do need to jumpstart your car you should always go to the engine bay (places the battery in-line before the electronics to help smooth any voltage spikes) and choose a suitable jumper vehicle. A small 4 or 6 cylinder will not get it done, especially in winter. I've had good luck with small block V8's that are holding about 2K rpm.
2. A low voltage battery will cause every symptom you just indicated. Take a multimeter to your battery - you should read about 12.6V with the engine off, 14V with it on. Less than 12.3 or so and you need a new battery.
3. Before replacing your battery take you car for a drive. Don't let it idle for an extended period unless it is already warmed up. This will help put a charge back into your battery. Retest and check the results.
4. Your nav unit may very well be dead AND draining your battery. When mine went it not only stopped reading discs (it was ok otherwise) but it refused to go to sleep and thus kept the car awake all night killing my battery. Charge your battery, disconnect your nav and see if your vehicle is still dead in the morning.
5. On the "Check High Beam" issue it sounds like he managed to wire the fogs incorrectly. "Check Fog Light" would make sense but the high beams are unrelated to the fog wiring except that they are both lights on the front of the car. I'd get under there and check the harness he replaced and put your old foglights (I assume just bulbs?) back in to see if the issue goes away.

d-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
This post is silliness - of course an alternator is designed to re-charge a battery. If it weren't you'd only be able to start your car X number of times and then the battery would be dead.

Furthermore, the typical alternator is sized well over the average amperage requirements of a vehicle - you'd have to turn pretty much everything on to exceed the alternator rating.

Lastly, your alternator provides 14.4V vs. the nominal 12.6V of a battery. This in an of itself is enough to reverse the chemical reaction that occurs when a battery discharges. It won't reverse it fully but neither will any other charger - that is just the nature of a lead acid battery.

I'm not sure who taught you that an alternator isn't sufficient to recharge your battery but I'd suggest you ask for a refund and / or clarification as to what they really meant.

Doug
These are all average numbers. Doug, while I respect your knowledge of the BMW M5, please respect my knowledge as a professional tech. I've dealt with enough cars of all marques, and can rightfully say, that an alternator is not an sufficiant battery charger. If you let your battery die. Say, you left your lights on, then, left town for a day or two. When you jump start the car, and let it run, drive it, whatever, it will not be fully charged the next day when you leave to go to work. It may start when you try it immediately after shutting it down. That being said, what's the nominal drain on a BMW, with all of the computer circuits, miliamps are constantly being drained from the battery. Ask your indy mechanic (which I am), they'll tell you, an alternator is not a battery charger, and is not the correct way to recharge a battery. That was the only point I was trying to make.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
474 Posts
i am nowhere near the qualification level of Doug or KVC442, but can speak from personal experiance on my earlier car (VW GTI).

The car did not start, battrey was dead (I had returned from a 30 day vacation). I jumped the car and ran it for about 1/2hr (around town) and it was fine after that. I assume if the alternator was not charging the battrey, the battrey would have died again, but this was not the case (at least for the 1 yr I owned the car after this incident).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,016 Posts
1. Never let anyone else jumpstart your car. I just had my windshield replaced and in the process the guy killed my battery and jumped my car, incorrectly. He's now buying me a new nav system. If you do need to jumpstart your car you should always go to the engine bay (places the battery in-line before the electronics to help smooth any voltage spikes) and choose a suitable jumper vehicle. A small 4 or 6 cylinder will not get it done, especially in winter. I've had good luck with small block V8's that are holding about 2K rpm.
2. A low voltage battery will cause every symptom you just indicated. Take a multimeter to your battery - you should read about 12.6V with the engine off, 14V with it on. Less than 12.3 or so and you need a new battery.
3. Before replacing your battery take you car for a drive. Don't let it idle for an extended period unless it is already warmed up. This will help put a charge back into your battery. Retest and check the results.
4. Your nav unit may very well be dead AND draining your battery. When mine went it not only stopped reading discs (it was ok otherwise) but it refused to go to sleep and thus kept the car awake all night killing my battery. Charge your battery, disconnect your nav and see if your vehicle is still dead in the morning.
5. On the "Check High Beam" issue it sounds like he managed to wire the fogs incorrectly. "Check Fog Light" would make sense but the high beams are unrelated to the fog wiring except that they are both lights on the front of the car. I'd get under there and check the harness he replaced and put your old foglights (I assume just bulbs?) back in to see if the issue goes away.

d-
Doug can you tell me why we have to jump the car from the engine bay and why BMW jumped mine car directly from the battery?
 
1 - 20 of 64 Posts
Top