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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I have been around for a few years now, but I thought it was time I started a build thread for my latest ///M car. I bought this 2008 M5 back in December to replace my mint 2003 M3 I sold. I decided I wanted to finally own the famous V10 Jermey Clarkston talked about years ago on Top Gear. I was very lucky to stumble upon this car on Autotrader as the owner had only posted the ad a couple hours earlier. It is a 2008 M5 fully loaded minus soft close trunk and rear heated seats. The car had 59k miles on it, but the owner had just performed a tons of maintenance/mods. The car came to me as a 21pt Dinan car. Dinan Stage 3 Software, Dinan Intakes, Dinan UDP's, Dinan section 3 mufflers, Dinan 3.91 LSD, Dinan Stage 3 Suspension, BBS CH-R 19x9/19x10.5's, and Weisher's LED interior/exterior kit. The owner had just replaced all the rotors with OEM's that he had Powdercoated silver to prevent any corrosion. He also had the calipers custom painted in a metallic blue that matches the BMW roundel blue. These also received fresh stainless steal brake lines, and Cool Carbon pads. The car was like brand new as the previous owner only drive it on weekends or in perfect weather. The car spent most of its time professionally detailed and under a car cover. He included 2 really nice car covers, and a OEM BMW trickle charger. These were the pictures when I first got the car in December.









 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The first thing I needed to address was a issue I kept having every so often with the date and time needing to be reset. I did my research and performed some tests, and it was nothing more then a low battery causing intermittent issues. I decided to go with a Duralast battery from Autozone for $165 after core and coupon. All issues were fixed and I haven't had a problem since. I also ordered a coding cable at this time to do a reset of the battery to reduce over charging issues. This was also the perfect time to replace both of my key batteries so that all batteries involved were fresh and I would be trouble free for many miles ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The next thing I addressed was the ride height. My car had Dinan Stage 3 suspension, which I will say rode absolutely amazing, but it didn't sit low enough for me. I made a deal with another forum member to swap my Dinan springs for their H&R Sports. The H&R's lowered the car almost another inch all the way around. The car rides stiffer, but also feels more planted in my opinion. I couldn't be happier with the swap. It accomplished exactly what I was looking for.

Using the forum to navigate my way through the job!!



I also decided at this time, that I wasn't in love with the looking of the 19" BBS CH-R's. I decided to sell them and start looking for a more baller set of 20" three piece wheels that were more aggressive. Here are some cleaned up pictures of the car with the stock wheels and H&R springs. I think the car sits much better now.



Got to love black when it is clean!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I decided to address a couple cosmetic issues next. I couldn't stand looking at the amber reflectors on the front bumper anymore, so I ordered a set of painted Sapphire Black reflectors from IND. I was very happy with the finish on these, as I had ordered painted reflectors from other vendors in the past and wasn't as impressed. These made a huge difference in cleaning up the front of the car. Looks so much cleaner and meaner. I also purchased a brand new license plate, and a new OEM ///M5 plate surround. My car had come with a chrome ///M5 plate surround, but it never looked right to me on a black car. Now I feel everything works well together and finishes off the details just right.



 
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well done.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
At 63k miles, I did a full service on the old girl. This included all OEM fluids/filters/plugs from ECS Tuning and my local dealer. Was pretty easy work minus getting the rear diff bolts out. They take a 14mm Allen socket which all my sets only go up to 10mm. I ended up making a tool out of a 14mm headed bolt and 2 nuts. This worked perfect for me. I also drove the car to cycle all the fluids and did the diff break-in procedure before putting the car back up to top off the fluids. My car is a 2008, so I do have 2 oil drain plugs under the car, and my car does take a extra liter of oil also.
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Loving this thread. Keep it updated!

Try and snap some more pics
 

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I'm interested to see how long the Duralast battery will hold up. I'll need to replace mine soon. Please keep us updated.

And keep up the good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I'll be honest, the OEM battery looks exactly the same as the Duralast with BMW stickers on it. I have never had a issue with a Duralast battery and I have owned 13 BMW's now. I am pretty OCD about my cars, but a OEM battery is not worth $330 over the $165 Duralast.
 
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I'm interested to see how long the Duralast battery will hold up. I'll need to replace mine soon. Please keep us updated.

And keep up the good work!
The duralast battery is made by the same company that makes the oem battery. They are made by east penn, I have the duralast now for 2 years with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks buddy, this confirms exactly what I thought. They seemed identicle to me, and now I know they are.
 

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That's great to hear! Thanks guys! Which coding cable did you get?

Regarding 14mm hex bit, Autozone has a 3 pc hex bit for about $12. It comes with 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm hex bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
After watching so many of those YouTube videos, I wanted my car to have that loud V10 growl. The Dinan section 3 mufflers were not doing it for me by themselves, so I decided to step it up a little. I had the stock secondary cats and stock resonator deleted, and had a X-pipe welded in place of the stock H-pipe. This turned out to be the perfect combo for me, and I can't say that I have ever been happier with a $300 mod. The car sounds amazing!!
Here's the stock setup we cut out.
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This is the aftermarket x-pipe and new tubing underneath the car.
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dont mean to jack the thread, but where do you put the jack under the back of the car to lift it all at once? or do you just lift one side at a time?

Front is obvious but I don't see a big crossmember in the back, or do you just use that one that's just behind the diff? :confused2

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I jack the car from one side, then the other and that gets me the back 2 jack stands under it. At that point I slide my jack under the front center jack point, and that allows me to throw in the front 2 stands.
 
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