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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I have a problem with my ///M. The gauges have gone mad, speed and revs work properly, but that's all. Oil temp, water temp, fuel and computer are dead (only the fuel light, battery and oil light work). Also, my OBC is showing PPPP.
What's wrong with that? Is there a common ECU? Or is it just the gauges that have died? :flag:
 

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Yorldi said:
Well, I have a problem with my ///M. The gauges have gone mad, speed and revs work properly, but that's all. Oil temp, water temp, fuel and computer are dead (only the fuel light, battery and oil light work). Also, my OBC is showing PPPP.
What's wrong with that? Is there a common ECU? Or is it just the gauges that have died? :flag:

Have you checked that your battery is 100%?

:cheers:

ralph (vadas1)
 

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Yes, 100% operative! I've had a problem once, when my battery used to die (it was before my bro's car, and as he only used it for 4-5k kms every year, it stood stoped for long time), but now it's replaced and have had no problem with that for a year...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Anyone?? :crying: :crying: :crying:
 

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What have you checked?

The gauges are only held in by the 2 small screws you can see at the top of the surround.

First remove the wheel (20mm nut) and then take the 2 screws out. The gauges then fall forwards and you will see there are 4 colour coded plugs in the back. Check nothing is lose. You'll also find a coding chip in the back of the gauge cluster. Check this is still fitted. It's held in by a plastic tab, however the plastic is brittle and if a previous owner has ever had the gauges out the brittle plastic may well have snapped enabling the chip to move out under vibration.

If all is as it should be then get the multimeter out and check you have a power feed to the gauges.

1/2 an hours investigating and you'll probably find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm gonna check today...
 

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ste said:
What have you checked?

The gauges are only held in by the 2 small screws you can see at the top of the surround.

First remove the wheel (20mm nut) and then take the 2 screws out. The gauges then fall forwards and you will see there are 4 colour coded plugs in the back. Check nothing is lose. You'll also find a coding chip in the back of the gauge cluster. Check this is still fitted. It's held in by a plastic tab, however the plastic is brittle and if a previous owner has ever had the gauges out the brittle plastic may well have snapped enabling the chip to move out under vibration.

If all is as it should be then get the multimeter out and check you have a power feed to the gauges.

1/2 an hours investigating and you'll probably find the problem.

Hi!!
Would just like to point out that It isn`t necessary to remove steering wheel when removing the instrument cluster. I have done this many times.
Just pull out the steering wheel as far back as the adjustment allows. Have the steering wheel in the center position, now remove the two screws which hold the cluster in place. Pull out the cluster as far as it comes to the "top hole" of steering wheel, mind the screen so that you don`t scratch it(thin piece of soft cloth between steering wheel and the cluster front is sufficient) Now wiggle out the wire connections behind the cluster(there is a small locking switch on each connector that has to be opened before pulling out the connectors) .
Now you turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn to left with the cluster in the wheel. Now it falls out freely.
Reassembly in reverse order.

:byebye:
Sakke
 

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If the OBC display should read PPPP, this means that the module cannot read the coding plug information. This could mean that the coding plug is defective or possibly not fully plugged in(either in the harness directly behind the cluster or in the back of the cluster itself). That would also explain why your other guages and matrix are not working since they do not know to function without the coding plug information. Hope this helps.
 

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DrSakke said:
Hi!!
Would just like to point out that It isn`t necessary to remove steering wheel when removing the instrument cluster. I have done this many times.
Just pull out the steering wheel as far back as the adjustment allows. Have the steering wheel in the center position, now remove the two screws which hold the cluster in place. Pull out the cluster as far as it comes to the "top hole" of steering wheel, mind the screen so that you don`t scratch it(thin piece of soft cloth between steering wheel and the cluster front is sufficient) Now wiggle out the wire connections behind the cluster(there is a small locking switch on each connector that has to be opened before pulling out the connectors) .
Now you turn the steering wheel 1/4 turn to left with the cluster in the wheel. Now it falls out freely.
Reassembly in reverse order.

:byebye:
Sakke
By the way, if you have a RHD car, you should turn the steering wheel to the right whentaking out the cluster.

:cheers:
Sakke
 

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ste said:
I assume you have a different steering wheel to me - the cluster doesn't seem to fit in the "top hole" of the Mtech-II. :)
I thought about that(ver shortly), I have the standard item "buss wheel" four spoke steering wheel so obviously I don`t have a clue how this works with other steering wheels. The cluster doesn`t really fit in the hole on mine either but the thickest ie. the top part of the cluster comes just enough towards the wheel that you can turn the wheel and take the cluster with it so that it clears the dashboard.

:cheers:
Sakke
 
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