Trust me, this has me puzzled as I have watched the videos for doing the firmware upgrade. I have not removed the BlueBus since I first installed it. I have been doing this without turning the car on so that nothing has any power and when I connect the BlueBus to the laptop it lights up the green LED which is why I feel like it must be connected properly and the cable is making a good connection, but I am wondering if maybe it is just making a solid enough connection that it will power the BlueBus but not enough for the data pins to be connecting.
I am feeling like that relative that knows nothing about computers that calls me for help
I do also have a Surface Pro that I could try using to see if that does anything different. Any reason why that wouldn't work or anyone had luck using a newer Surface Pro?
One more question, when I plug the BlueBus into the laptop (Mac or Windows) should it act like any normal devices that you plug into the USB ports and give you some type of message that you have connected new hardware? I have not had that happen on any machine that I have connected yet....
The BlueBus is capable of operating with / without the car connected. There's never an instance where plugging it into USB won't allow you to communicate with the unit.Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I see Green LED as long as it's connected to the 3 pin power. Regardless of connecting the mini usb or not.
If the car has ignition on, the BlueBus won't talk to the USB port I think, but only with the car.
Ted - unfortunately using the Surface Pro didn't make a difference and the "Ports" never show up in Device Manager even after loading the drivers and rebooting. I will shoot you a PM.
It's not possible. But if that's what you want, the BlueBus doesn't do anything that the Intravee cannot in terms of extra features, so that would be the better choice.Maybe a dumb question but is it possible to connect an iPod adapter to the BlueBus like you can with an Intravee?
Howdy!Hey Ted. Is there a way to change the Bluebus' name as it appears on my phone? For instance, could I change it from "bluebus" to Bluebus M5?"
bt namecommand to set the name. Please note that you are limited to ONE word. So you could do
BlueBus_M5. This will change in the future.
Been awhile since I checked in on this thread. By any chance, do you have the ability to display multiple readings on the bluebus home screen in addition to the coolant temp? I freaking LOVE LOVE LOVE that i can see my coolant temp digital readout all the time real time while driving and not have to look at the buffered gauge. Would LOVE to see the oil temp too at the same time if possible, perhaps running voltage as well. If they cannot be displayed together, is there any way to change what shows in that small display? Could I swap it from coolant temp to oil temp?
I wish I could take credit for this, but it's the beauty of having an all digital audio interface down to the DAC and Amplifiers that drive each speaker. I'm really glad I was able to figure out how to force the DSP to use the digital interface even on an "analog" CD Changer car.Also - I am continuously blown away by the crystal clear sound quality of the bluebus when I stream amazon music. It's insane, zero feedback whatsoever, just crystal clear. I use the digi-key coax cable.
You need to code your Navi for "NG" radio support. In particular,How can you display the coolant temperature on a 16:9 with BM24 and MK4? The option is enabled in BlueBus, but unfortunately nothing is displayed.
Oil temperature would be great, but even the Intravee can not do that on normal E39s.
WIDESCREEN_MONIneeds to be set to
wert 1. See more: Error with television, caller ID and coolant temp · Issue #53 · tedsalmon/BlueBus
This is likely unrelated to update. You should pull Fuse 56 to reset the Navi. Sometimes the Navigation Computer can't keep up with the BlueBus screen write commands and locks up. It's a rare issue.Hi Ted, I installed firmware 1.1.17 a couple of days ago and am having issues. In particular, the screen is locked on MENU with most items grayed out, completely unresponsive. Bluetooth audio and phone calls still work though. What's the best course of action?