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Fuel Tank Vapor/EVAP Leakage

378 views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  95naSTA  
#1 · (Edited)
I've read a bunch of posts on tank leaks but none seem to match my issue.

I have Peake Codes:
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So far I:
  • Replaced the filler cap, but still have the same codes
  • Tried smoke testing in two locations in both directions after opening connections at oetiker clamps.
    • At the end of the smaller filler tube run where it connects to the tank vent, RR wheel well
    • At the bottom of the expansion tank where it connects to the tank vent, LR wheel well.
  • There were no smoke leaks found in the engine bay, anywhere in the RR wheel well to include the filler neck and gas cap, under the car or at the tank sending unit areas under the rear seat access covers.
  • With the smoke tester hooked up at the LR connection mentioned above, in the direction of the expansion tank, I did see smoke come out of the leak diagnosis pump dust filter. No smoke when the smoke tester was plumbed in the tank vent direction at that connection.
  • Probably worth noting my fuel supply line popped up/off at the tank about 500 hundred miles and 2 weeks ago, it has not come off since. I hadn't touched it for 4 years and 18k miles before that. Same codes before and after that event.
Does it make sense for smoke to get past the charcoal filter and leak diagnosis pump?

Any other suggestions for where to look?


RR connection point:
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LR connection point (blue barb):
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LR leak:
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RL components for reference:
 
#2 ·
The smoke coming out of the filter is because you did not shut the valve likely. If you did nothing electrical jumping wise then that would be it. Basically I have done this on a few M5s. Jump two pins at the DME with a power source and plug compressed air into the infamous elbow 17 where the Evap system joins the ICV system. Set the air pressure 1 or 2 PSI higher would be risk. Then I listen, if nice and quit you will hear. If the pump on the smoke machine is running you will not hear but might see, I just have way better luck with straight air, just keep turning the pressure up until you hear something.
So your GIF of the leak there is a plug and some wires that is the valve you need to active and you can also activate the EVAP but the compressed air will pass through it because it is working backwards. That is why I do those things at the DME, simple one source two sets of pins throw the switch and you are off to the races.
 
#5 ·
Get a used valve unit. They're cheap. I had one go out a few years back.
 
#8 ·
IIRC I was just getting the code, no other symptoms. The part replaced was/is the one with the electrical connection.

When you smoke tested, did you look at the top of the gas tank? There are vent lines up there that mice like to chew on.