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Holy crap that thing is expensive now.

I just did the breather valve few months ago and I thought it was expensive at $85
 

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I also bought one on eBay for $72 and mine also came in from Lithuania in about a week. I was really surprised how fast it was. I thought it would take much longer.
 

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The 13907830766 one, which must somehow supersede that older part number, is upwards of £250 here. What I don't know is whether the newer version is in an improvement over the original factory-fitted one. Realoem isn't very helpful when checking backwards/forwards compatibility between the two. However, 13901748875 was definitely the one fitted at the factory and not erroneously fitted by a previous owner. No record (or other tell-tale physical evidence) of any under-plenum work done before my ownership.
Hmm interesting, that original part supersedes to 13901744150 which is used on the E39 528i/540i as well as a few other models, and is sold for $162. Looks identical to the M5 part number. In fact the picture on ECS for 13907830766 still seems to show 1748875 on the body. And then confusingly the Z8 and early euro E39 M5s use 13901407474 which is even more expensive.

E46 M3 also has a similar part that can be had for < $100 (13907831770). Then a bunch of non-Ms (including later model E39 I6 and V8 models) use 13901433603 which looks identical to the M3 piece, and can also be had for < $100 as well.

No clue what the difference in any of these is supposed to be.
 

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I'm doing VCG and oil separators....decided to do the breather valve too as preventative....until I had sticker shock like you guys. Then I saw this thread. Too funny. Funny how everyone is finding out at the same time, not funny at the ludicrous pricing, lol.
 

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Also, there is an aftermarket version of this valve available, Standard Motor Vapor Canister Purge Solenoids CP783 for $74. It is a pretty simple device, so the aftermarket part will likely work well.

I just purchased the last CP783 I could find in stock anywhere.
It turned out to be an original BMW part # 13901748875
Material property Gas Engineering Electric blue Cable
Getting original parts from a third party isn't unheard of, but the CP783 seems to be discontinued which isn't surprising since 13901748875 is also discontinued.

If you search the current BMW part # 13901744150 on SMP/Intermotor's website, the CP467 shows up so that's another option.

Though there is an even cheaper option in the Vemo/Vierol V20-77-1005.

Ultimately, there's no need to pay the crazy BMW price for one, especially when the part # they sell now is shared by a bunch of other BMW models and not S62 exclusive like the old part numbers were.
 

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M5enthusiast, thanks for the Vemo part number. Ultimately I can't understand why BMW even created a special part number for the S62 engine. There is nothing particularly unique to this vent valve compared to the ones the use in some of their other engines. I can understand if packaging was an issue, but it is not, there is plenty of room around the valve in the engine valley that even if other vent valves are slightly larger in some dimension they should still fit.

From the preventative perspective, you I don't really have to replace this valve preventatively. You can just spray some light oil into it and blow it our with compressed air. Then repeat that a few times just to clean out any gunk that might be in there. Then just put the valve back on. The light oil should prevent it from getting stuck. This isn't a critical component (i.e. it won't leave you stranded on the side of the road if it fails), you will just get an evap code but can keep driving without any damage to any other component and simply replace it at your convenience.
 

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Very helpful thread! After reading it, I did some research and found the following.

1. Schmiedmann shows the original M5 part (766) superseded by 150.
2. RealOEM shows the 875 part also superseded by 150.
3. Real OEM shows both the 150 and 603 parts as OE in the E39 540i.
4. Current prices at FCP are: 766 = $200, 150 = $194, 603 = $97

Has anyone installed the 603 part on an M5? I would love to save the $100.

Thanks, Cory
 

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I would love to save the $100
If you want to save more and want to do work, they usually are not broken just old and dried out. I have bench fixed a few with silicon or graphite blasted through them while activated. Then activated a few more times. That seems to only get you a year or two but I think it was the spray/material I used. Since then I have done a few in car and nothing has failed. Just using normal motor oil I unplugged the breather hose at part 17 the elbow to the ICV system. Put some oil in that hose and pulled it up to drain the oil down near the valve. Then activate the valve with an open gas cap in a well ventilated area and put some compressed air through the hose to move the oil up into the valve. Then activate the valve a few times and you can hear it working better on each stroke then all of a sudden it will get snappy like it should be.
The last time I did it was on my own car, because I did not have time to fix it right but I used a mister and did it all in one step.
You have to watch which lube you use as some will swell the rubber parts which will not be good.
First step is try and activate it because sometimes these units fail for electrical units, but most I have seen the diaphram just gets dry and sticky, maybe even hard.
If I had to do it again I would order the new part but with a return policy pull the valve try and bench fix it with motor oil and ship the bought part back if the old got working again. The in car method is pretty wonky and I worried about sending oil back to some of the other parts in the system.
 

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Great advice! Thank you.

Cory
 

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Very helpful thread! After reading it, I did some research and found the following.

1. Schmiedmann shows the original M5 part (766) superseded by 150.
2. RealOEM shows the 875 part also superseded by 150.
3. Real OEM shows both the 150 and 603 parts as OE in the E39 540i.
4. Current prices at FCP are: 766 = $200, 150 = $194, 603 = $97

Has anyone installed the 603 part on an M5? I would love to save the $100.

Thanks, Cory
Amazon has the Ferdinand Bilstein @ $53 Amazon link
 

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Amazon has the Ferdinand Bilstein @ $53 Amazon link
Thanks. At that cost, aftermarket is very tempting. That part cross references to the 603 BMW part, so my previous question regarding the 603 part also applies.

Cory
 

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Thanks. At that cost, aftermarket is very tempting. That part cross references to the 603 BMW part, so my previous question regarding the 603 part also applies.

Cory

Agree. Noticed that after posting... but is does show it is compatible 13901748875. As was mentioned above (I think) RealOEM shows 13901433603 is E39 appropriate for all things OTHER than S62 M5. What the difference might be is unclear. As a vent, (asking naively), how different would it need to be???
 

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As a vent, (asking naively), how different would it need to be???
Quoted the wrong post this is really directed at our soon to be newest contributor, explorer.LOL
To not be listed as compatible it could me many simple things, and they may mean nothing. The slot in the rubber to slide on the bracket. One bracket just being slightly different. The angle of the hoses or orientation. Likely the voltage will all be the same, even though BMW uses something slightly different than the old standard which was 5v, the new pulse from the DME don't carry much amperage. It is just a coil they can take different voltages and are very tolerant. The only real unknown is the flow rate going through the valve, but that is sort of a closed system mainly just drawing the vaporized fuel out of the tank,
As long as the connectors are all the same I bet it would work fine. And like all things that have been discovered on this board for all of us to take advantage of, some one has to dive in first and be the explorer. I don't think you are at much risk, most incompatibilities should be noticeable on the bench.
Order one that you know will fit and that one, and do the comparison, if it works write your thread and live forever on the M5 board as a contributor.
 

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Just ordered the Febi replacement for 603. Will report back after the installation.
 
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UPDATE!!! - Do NOT use this $60 part after all, see post #49, my current evidence shows this one does NOT work properly on the S62, try to salvage your original valve first!!!

FYI, just doing this job and using this ~$60 part from FCPEuro. I believe my old valve still works fine though and the issue was a small crack in the white plastic elbow. At any rate, I'm remote-locating the valve so I'll be able to swap back and forth between the old OE and this new cheapy one easily so that I can tell you guys for SURE if it works and for how long, etc.
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Awesome idea austrianvespaguy!! I look forward to your results. I suspect that this valve is going to work just fine initially. If it is good enough for 540i, it should probably be fine for the M5, at least initially. If you look at the M5 and 540i vent valves, the M5 one is just larger. That obviously brings up the question of why BMW thought there was a need to design a larger valve for the M5 when they already had the 540i valve. My guess is longevity and emissions warranty. These valves slowly build up carbon deposits in them over time (I cleaned mine the last time I had my lower manifold off), so I think BMW designs them not just to work when new, but to also allow some amount of carboning up before the flow becomes insufficient. Therefore I think that a smaller valve simply has less tolerance for carbon build up than a larger one. Remember, I believe the emissions warranty on the car was 8 yrs/80k miles or something like that (perhaps someone can correct me here). Therefore they wanted to avoid replacing this valve under warranty with the expected carbon buildup over that time. However, with your setup since it is so easy to get to the valve to clean/replace it, this is really not an issue.
 

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I mean maybe, but this one is awfully hair-brained, so it's hard to guess as to any reasonable reason WHY they didn't just use the same valve as on their literally MILLIONS of other production cars. I mean, both the inlet and outlet fittings are the same size, and it's just a 12v solenoid that opens/closes the passage between them, so there's no actual difference between any of them. What I find interesting though is in my reading up on this job, I'm clearly not the first person to discover this plastic elbow to have failed. I'm now wondering how many purge valves that were still just fine have been unnecessarily replaced when it was in fact this elbow that was the culprit. . .
So for future readers of this thread, I have two links for you to consider when doing this job: a 5/16" BRASS elbow, and the correct Bosch EV1 connectors in order to extend the wiring harness for the valve like I did, if you wish. There's a small bit of hose with the goofy fitting for the inlet side of the valve that can be removed/reused (see my picture, the pipe from the charcoal canister conveniently comes up with the fuel lines on the inside of the drivers fender), and 4ish feet of 5/16" hose from you local auto parts store are all you need to fix the elbow and move the valve to a more accessible location for future replacement, if necessary, making a first attempt at this only a $30 job with no need to order the valve up front!

and
 

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I mean maybe, but this one is awfully hair-brained, so it's hard to guess as to any reasonable reason WHY they didn't just use the same valve as on their literally MILLIONS of other production cars. I mean, both the inlet and outlet fittings are the same size, and it's just a 12v solenoid that opens/closes the passage between them, so there's no actual difference between any of them. What I find interesting though is in my reading up on this job, I'm clearly not the first person to discover this plastic elbow to have failed. I'm now wondering how many purge valves that were still just fine have been unnecessarily replaced when it was in fact this elbow that was the culprit. . .
So for future readers of this thread, I have two links for you to consider when doing this job: a 5/16" BRASS elbow, and the correct Bosch EV1 connectors in order to extend the wiring harness for the valve like I did, if you wish. There's a small bit of hose with the goofy fitting for the inlet side of the valve that can be removed/reused (see my picture, the pipe from the charcoal canister conveniently comes up with the fuel lines on the inside of the drivers fender), and 4ish feet of 5/16" hose from you local auto parts store are all you need to fix the elbow and move the valve to a more accessible location for future replacement, if necessary, making a first attempt at this only a $30 job with no need to order the valve up front!

and
The "part 17" thing is not new. It's all over the Board as the source of vacuum leaks for the same reason you have discovered. The plastic cracks and causes a leak on the engine side of the valve. IMO, this does not set a code for the vent valve, otherwise we would have a "smoking gun" for the elbow as that is a much more common failure than the vent valve.
 
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