I would say it came in a bit quicker than one month.
Hmm interesting, that original part supersedes to 13901744150 which is used on the E39 528i/540i as well as a few other models, and is sold for $162. Looks identical to the M5 part number. In fact the picture on ECS for 13907830766 still seems to show 1748875 on the body. And then confusingly the Z8 and early euro E39 M5s use 13901407474 which is even more expensive.The 13907830766 one, which must somehow supersede that older part number, is upwards of £250 here. What I don't know is whether the newer version is in an improvement over the original factory-fitted one. Realoem isn't very helpful when checking backwards/forwards compatibility between the two. However, 13901748875 was definitely the one fitted at the factory and not erroneously fitted by a previous owner. No record (or other tell-tale physical evidence) of any under-plenum work done before my ownership.
I just purchased the last CP783 I could find in stock anywhere.Also, there is an aftermarket version of this valve available, Standard Motor Vapor Canister Purge Solenoids CP783 for $74. It is a pretty simple device, so the aftermarket part will likely work well.
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If you want to save more and want to do work, they usually are not broken just old and dried out. I have bench fixed a few with silicon or graphite blasted through them while activated. Then activated a few more times. That seems to only get you a year or two but I think it was the spray/material I used. Since then I have done a few in car and nothing has failed. Just using normal motor oil I unplugged the breather hose at part 17 the elbow to the ICV system. Put some oil in that hose and pulled it up to drain the oil down near the valve. Then activate the valve with an open gas cap in a well ventilated area and put some compressed air through the hose to move the oil up into the valve. Then activate the valve a few times and you can hear it working better on each stroke then all of a sudden it will get snappy like it should be.I would love to save the $100
Amazon has the Ferdinand Bilstein @ $53 Amazon linkVery helpful thread! After reading it, I did some research and found the following.
1. Schmiedmann shows the original M5 part (766) superseded by 150.
2. RealOEM shows the 875 part also superseded by 150.
3. Real OEM shows both the 150 and 603 parts as OE in the E39 540i.
4. Current prices at FCP are: 766 = $200, 150 = $194, 603 = $97
Has anyone installed the 603 part on an M5? I would love to save the $100.
Thanks. At that cost, aftermarket is very tempting. That part cross references to the 603 BMW part, so my previous question regarding the 603 part also applies.
Quoted the wrong post this is really directed at our soon to be newest contributor, explorer.LOLAs a vent, (asking naively), how different would it need to be???
The "part 17" thing is not new. It's all over the Board as the source of vacuum leaks for the same reason you have discovered. The plastic cracks and causes a leak on the engine side of the valve. IMO, this does not set a code for the vent valve, otherwise we would have a "smoking gun" for the elbow as that is a much more common failure than the vent valve.I mean maybe, but this one is awfully hair-brained, so it's hard to guess as to any reasonable reason WHY they didn't just use the same valve as on their literally MILLIONS of other production cars. I mean, both the inlet and outlet fittings are the same size, and it's just a 12v solenoid that opens/closes the passage between them, so there's no actual difference between any of them. What I find interesting though is in my reading up on this job, I'm clearly not the first person to discover this plastic elbow to have failed. I'm now wondering how many purge valves that were still just fine have been unnecessarily replaced when it was in fact this elbow that was the culprit. . .
So for future readers of this thread, I have two links for you to consider when doing this job: a 5/16" BRASS elbow, and the correct Bosch EV1 connectors in order to extend the wiring harness for the valve like I did, if you wish. There's a small bit of hose with the goofy fitting for the inlet side of the valve that can be removed/reused (see my picture, the pipe from the charcoal canister conveniently comes up with the fuel lines on the inside of the drivers fender), and 4ish feet of 5/16" hose from you local auto parts store are all you need to fix the elbow and move the valve to a more accessible location for future replacement, if necessary, making a first attempt at this only a $30 job with no need to order the valve up front!
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