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Discussion Starter #1
So i just had my cars serviced and they tell me that the front pads and rotors are done in. They went on to tell me that the pads and rotors have to be replaced as a set??? I have never heard of this before so her I am on the best resource available.

If the front rotors are not warped, grooved etc I should be able to have them resurfaced correct?

Any suggestions on low dust pads?

Thanks all,

-PRKelly
 

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So i just had my cars serviced and they tell me that the front pads and rotors are done in. They went on to tell me that the pads and rotors have to be replaced as a set??? I have never heard of this before so her I am on the best resource available.

If the front rotors are not warped, grooved etc I should be able to have them resurfaced correct?

Any suggestions on low dust pads?

Thanks all,

-PRKelly
I have Cool Carbon break pads. Pretty happy with them but I haven't tried other brands to compare with. Guessing here but it produces about 1/3 of dust vs OEM.

Trinity Autosport : Cool Carbon Front/Rear Pads for BMW E60 M5/M6 - $280.45

May try Carbotech next.

Rotors can be resurfaced but there is a minimum thickness required or they have to be replaced. Haven't done it myself.
 

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So i just had my cars serviced and they tell me that the front pads and rotors are done in. They went on to tell me that the pads and rotors have to be replaced as a set??? I have never heard of this before so her I am on the best resource available.

If the front rotors are not warped, grooved etc I should be able to have them resurfaced correct?

Any suggestions on low dust pads?

Thanks all,

-PRKelly
Under warranty with the free maintenance plan they will replace the pads only if the rotors are above spec enough, if not they will replace the rotors and pads. Personally I always replace the rotors and pads together each time, but that is just me. I would get them measured and go from there. The rotors are expensive due to the fact they are factory floating compared to other cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just found out that the rotors are shot. Going to have to source another pair.

I am sorely temped to just go ahead and buy this 2010 M5 with 10K on the clock that they have at CM. Save myself a ton of maintenance and get into a basically new M5!
 

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Just found out that the rotors are shot. Going to have to source another pair.

I am sorely temped to just go ahead and buy this 2010 M5 with 10K on the clock that they have at CM. Save myself a ton of maintenance and get into a basically new M5!
Sounds like a good looking car. Got a link?

Edit: Is it this one? If so dang its pretty. Seems to be a better deal than that 09' one in the classifieds here for the exact same color combo. ;)

http://www.carmax.com/enus/view-car/default.html?id=10911121&AVi=14&No=0&Rp=R&D=90&zip=75093&ASTc=m5&Q=bad30740-3856-4ab7-a5be-b0d45657398a&Ep=search:results:results page
 
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Discussion Starter #6
That's the one! It is being transferred to my local store. Add about 2K to the price and Ill have a comprehensive bumper to bumper warranty.
 

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I say do it. Get the warranty and move on. I'm tempted to do the same.
 

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As said, rotors can run across a couple of pad changes as long as they are within thickness specs. I haven't changed my own m5 rotors yet but on my x5 the minimum thickness spec was stamped on the rotor for reference. I usually replaced rotors every other change.
 

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The OP is contemplating changing his car because it needs new brake rotors? Am I missing something here? From a 1,500 brake job, you will probably spend more than 10k to change the car :eek:oohhh:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update, I am not going to sell the car at this point, I am planning to replace the rotors etc this week end.

I understand that the rotors are a royal ***** to get off, any tips or suggestions?
 

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Update, I am not going to sell the car at this point, I am planning to replace the rotors etc this week end.

I understand that the rotors are a royal ***** to get off, any tips or suggestions?
The rotors are no harder than any other car to get off. Jack car. Remove wheel. Unbolt calipers/carriers (two large hex head nuts). Tie up caliper/carrier. Undo disc retaining bolt and remove :blink:
 
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Update, I am not going to sell the car at this point, I am planning to replace the rotors etc this week end.

I understand that the rotors are a royal ***** to get off, any tips or suggestions?

Nothing a properly sized hex bit and a hammer won't fix, make sure you squirt some fluid in and give the bit a good whack before turning. They are sooooo easy to round off.

If the retaining screws are seized then give the penetrating fluid time to work and try using a punch to loosen it.

If your really unlucky and that don't work then it is possible to cut them off the hub as the central material that goes over the hub is quite soft (more so than the hex screw).
 

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If the hex nut is fused a little due to the heat, try an impact driver. The manual sort you smack with a hammer, not electrical.
 

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The thing I always forget at first is to make sure the e-brake is off when doing rear rotors.
 

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How do you adjust the e-brake? Mine needs to be a bit tighter to hold on a semi-steep incline.
 
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