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Last weekend, I replaced the upper door seals for both front doors. These are the seals that run along the base of the roof and have soft felt along the edges. By pushing and pulling on the door frame (to simulate body flex) I was able to verify that the felt on these seals is what was producing all the ticking/creaking sounds I was hearing.

The noises were driving me up the wall, so I didn't mind paying the price for new seals because I was certain it would fix the problem (and it did). Besides, they're not terribly expensive:

51210402745, $41.08, left front seal
51210402746, $41.08, right front seal

On my car, it is the felt that presses against the side of the roof that makes the noises, not the felt that lays flat on top of the rubber. As far as I can tell, the horizontal felt doesn't actually touch the base of the roof when the door is closed.

After tackling the project and finding out that it did, indeed, fix the problem, I realized that I likely could have just cleaned the felt to achieve the same effect. However, the rubber on the passenger side seal was starting to deteriorate around the corners anyway, so I decided to just buy new ones. It's an easy DIY, but it does require detaching the front-most portion of the aluminum shadowline trim.

It's been almost a week, and the only noise I hear is coming from the original rear seals. I'll try cleaning them this weekend, but if that doesn't fix it, I'll be ordering a set of rear seals very soon.

Hopefully others who have "creaky-door-syndrome" will find this info helpful.

Michael
 

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Great post, this is definatly on my list of things to do. I have tried cleaning with Vinyl rubber care and it reduces the noise, but it always comes back.

1st thing on my list is to find a fix for creaky windows, which if I drop down 1mm it stops. But now if I have my window open at all the window rattles withing the door. This started that the window would rattle if 1/2 open but when fully open it stopped, but now it's all the time.

Any suggestions? I take it I will be told new seals around window, does anyone have a step by step guide on changing?

Steve
 

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Last weekend, I replaced the upper door seals for both front doors. These are the seals that run along the base of the roof and have soft felt along the edges. By pushing and pulling on the door frame (to simulate body flex) I was able to verify that the felt on these seals is what was producing all the ticking/creaking sounds I was hearing.

The noises were driving me up the wall, so I didn't mind paying the price for new seals because I was certain it would fix the problem (and it did). Besides, they're not terribly expensive:

51210402745, $41.08, left front seal
51210402746, $41.08, right front seal

On my car, it is the felt that presses against the side of the roof that makes the noises, not the felt that lays flat on top of the rubber. As far as I can tell, the horizontal felt doesn't actually touch the base of the roof when the door is closed.

After tackling the project and finding out that it did, indeed, fix the problem, I realized that I likely could have just cleaned the felt to achieve the same effect. However, the rubber on the passenger side seal was starting to deteriorate around the corners anyway, so I decided to just buy new ones. It's an easy DIY, but it does require detaching the front-most portion of the aluminum shadowline trim.

It's been almost a week, and the only noise I hear is coming from the original rear seals. I'll try cleaning them this weekend, but if that doesn't fix it, I'll be ordering a set of rear seals very soon.

Hopefully others who have "creaky-door-syndrome" will find this info helpful.

Michael
Make sure you don't have any silicone spray on the seals or the door jams. Detailers use it. You must remove it, for the squeaks to go away in most cases. Takes some work, but it usually works.
 

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Last weekend, I replaced the upper door seals for both front doors. These are the seals that run along the base of the roof and have soft felt along the edges. By pushing and pulling on the door frame (to simulate body flex) I was able to verify that the felt on these seals is what was producing all the ticking/creaking sounds I was hearing.

The noises were driving me up the wall, so I didn't mind paying the price for new seals because I was certain it would fix the problem (and it did). Besides, they're not terribly expensive:

51210402745, $41.08, left front seal
51210402746, $41.08, right front seal

On my car, it is the felt that presses against the side of the roof that makes the noises, not the felt that lays flat on top of the rubber. As far as I can tell, the horizontal felt doesn't actually touch the base of the roof when the door is closed.

After tackling the project and finding out that it did, indeed, fix the problem, I realized that I likely could have just cleaned the felt to achieve the same effect. However, the rubber on the passenger side seal was starting to deteriorate around the corners anyway, so I decided to just buy new ones. It's an easy DIY, but it does require detaching the front-most portion of the aluminum shadowline trim.

It's been almost a week, and the only noise I hear is coming from the original rear seals. I'll try cleaning them this weekend, but if that doesn't fix it, I'll be ordering a set of rear seals very soon.

Hopefully others who have "creaky-door-syndrome" will find this info helpful.

Michael
I am a bit confused by your description and part numbers. Are you sure you are talking about 51210402745 part #8 in this drawing?
RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 Door weatherstrip front

The felt running completely around the frame of the door and attaches to the car body looks more like #6. Part #8 is the felt trim that goes around the window mounted to the door - not the body. Can you confirm the parts and their location?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I am a bit confused by your description and part numbers. Are you sure you are talking about 51210402745 part #8 in this drawing?
RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 Door weatherstrip front

The felt running completely around the frame of the door and attaches to the car body looks more like #6. Part #8 is the felt trim that goes around the window mounted to the door - not the body. Can you confirm the parts and their location?
Part #8 is the one I am referring to. After re-reading my post, I see where the confusion can stem from. The seal attaches to the top edge of the door frame, not the bottom of the roof as my writing implied, and is better referred to as the door edge seal.

I followed this DIY, which includes pictures of the seal:

E39 Door Edge Seal Replacement

Also, the prices I quoted were from crownpartsonline.com, which offered the lowest price at the time.
 

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Treated rubber and waxed door jams equal quite doors!

I have been giving this some thought and also did a little investigation myself. It appears that most of us attack the problem of our noisy doors from the standpoint of the rubber. I myself use BMW's replacement for Gummi Pledge on my rubber trim so it is soft and in good condition. However, I still get excessive noise from my door seals. I realized that we are all missing an important element to solve this problem. The rubber seals touch the car body and the car body in the door jams are very clean - at least mine are. Rubber against squeaky clean will make a lot of noise. Ever hear basketball shoes on a clean floor?

My solution was to use a cleaner wax Klasse AIO and Klasse Sealant Glaze to make the contact points along the body as smooth and slippery as possible. Anyplace where the body comes in contact with the rubber trim I waxed it. Last night I took my car over a bumpy road around my house and wallah! The noise is gone!

I want to go over the contact points again with some S100 wax just to make it that much more slippery. Bottom line: Treated rubber and waxed door jams equal quite doors!
 

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Drives me nuts too.
Gummi not as good as silicone spray for mine.
I like the idea of super slippery paint with lubed rubber / felt?
I'll try some 'AUTOGLYM EXTRA GLOSS PROTECTION' around the doors and see how that goes???
Or there's always replacement, but that's more work....
And $$$$. :sad1:
 

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I tried the low $$ method of putting WD40 on a shop rag, and then massaging it into the door rubbers that come into contact with the body paint. I found it helped two problems-
1. no more squeaking.
2. in temperatures around or below freezing, it gave good protection from the door rubbers freezing to the paint.

Having clean paint in the door openings helps infinitely. They should be cleaned & waxed along with the rest of the car.

The door rubber that runs around the perimeter of the door and underneath it, should be unfastened from the bottom of the door (near where the water drains are) and that area should get cleaned every so often. You'd be suprised how much gunk can accumulate there after a few rainy drives..
 

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Gummi didn't work for me. I did use baby oil and oiled EVERYTHING. The soft felt, everything black and everywhere the black made contact with the car, all the metal body. Also rolled down all the windows and everything rubber was oiled as well. Speaks gone. To tighten up the doors you can use velco strips, the soft side. Buy at walmart and get the black industrial velcro that has adhesive on the back side and wrap the door jams for a tight fit.
 

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Gummi didn't work for me. I did use baby oil and oiled EVERYTHING. The soft felt, everything black and everywhere the black made contact with the car, all the metal body. Also rolled down all the windows and everything rubber was oiled as well. Speaks gone. To tighten up the doors you can use velco strips, the soft side. Buy at walmart and get the black industrial velcro that has adhesive on the back side and wrap the door jams for a tight fit.
Do you have any pictures of the velcro strips in-place? I can' quite visualize it.
 

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want to fix this right, don't use anything on the seals. lubricants etc are a temp fix and just make it worse. the problem is due to buildup of oils, dirt, waxes etc. get a bottle of 90% isopropyl alcohol and clean the hell out of the seals and also where they touch the door frames. just did this on mine and the noise is 100% gone.
 

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want to fix this right, don't use anything on the seals. lubricants etc are a temp fix and just make it worse. the problem is due to buildup of oils, dirt, waxes etc. get a bottle of 90% isopropyl alcohol and clean the hell out of the seals and also where they touch the door frames. just did this on mine and the noise is 100% gone.
I agree with cleaning the seals with alcohol. The same thing works with wiper blades. As long as the blade isn't ripped the wiper should last a very long time if you keep it clean. I'm going on 3 years with mine that I bought from Napa and they still clear very nicely. I think the same applies here with the seals, including if the seal is deteriorated and/or ripped, just buy a new one and call it a day.
 

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want to fix this right, don't use anything on the seals. lubricants etc are a temp fix and just make it worse. the problem is due to buildup of oils, dirt, waxes etc. get a bottle of 90% isopropyl alcohol and clean the hell out of the seals and also where they touch the door frames. just did this on mine and the noise is 100% gone.

Rgr that
 
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