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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Just want to say I've been following and reading on M5 Board for years now. I have finally made the decision to buy an E60 M5. Im pretty nervous and excited at the same time. Im going to see the beast tomorrow, it's a 2006 Black with white interior. Has all the service records and back in 2014 it was sent to Active Autowerke for the fllowing.

Water Pump
Expansion Tank
All the tension pulley and Idler pulley
New Oil cooler
EDC Control unit
Front caster bushing
New tires all 4
New Clutch kit ( SMG )
Hood Shock
Active Autowerke Exhaust
Alpha N Software With cold delete start
4 Vano solenoid Valve
2 Rear ignition coil

This was all performed with 99,000 miles on the car back in 2014 and now it has 107,000 miles. Im getting it for 11k. Would like to get some feed back from you guys. I will be changing the bearing ASAP.

Thanks
 

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Hi everyone,



Just want to say I've been following and reading on M5 Board for years now. I have finally made the decision to buy an E60 M5. Im pretty nervous and excited at the same time. Im going to see the beast tomorrow, it's a 2006 Black with white interior. Has all the service records and back in 2014 it was sent to Active Autowerke for the fllowing.



Water Pump

Expansion Tank

All the tension pulley and Idler pulley

New Oil cooler

EDC Control unit

Front caster bushing

New tires all 4

New Clutch kit ( SMG )

Hood Shock

Active Autowerke Exhaust

Alpha N Software With cold delete start

4 Vano solenoid Valve

2 Rear ignition coil



This was all performed with 99,000 miles on the car back in 2014 and now it has 107,000 miles. Im getting it for 11k. Would like to get some feed back from you guys. I will be changing the bearing ASAP.



Thanks
Congrats!
As long as you have the records then you should be all good....
Smart on Bearings, and great price!

Bought mine at 14K with AA exhaust and AA Tune, Air scoops and 80+ pages of records.

Spent 5k on bearings, and other maintenance items such as SMG pump fluid change, diff fluid, brake fluid, spark plugs and oil, + new squirters etc...well worth it!

Also got a cat delete on original headers by RMS FABRICATIONS, and a new Fastattack Tune...car is AMAZING!

You will love it. ENJOY!

Pics ;-)

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. Will put some pictures as soon as I bring her home. Going to check out the Rms, thanks
 

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Congrats on the car man. I just bought one about a month and a half ago. 92k on it. I’ve put about 800 miles on it, so far it’s ran great. I am just waiting on the vanos HP line and I’m taking it in to get bearings done, engine mounts, and the vanos line done. I would suggest doing bearings ASAP like you mentioned. Congrats again man good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome. My dad is a mechanic so this will save me hundreds on labor. Will post pictures once I get the beast!
 

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Do rod bearings immediately. Along with high pressure vanos line at the same time. Since it has to come off to do bearings.

Always remember to allow the car to warm up to operating temp before even driving it. 10w60 does absolutely nothing until its at op temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Definitely doing the bearing and vano pressure line. Would you recommend doing anything else while I’m down there? Also what scanner do you use for reading and clearing codes?
 

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Definitely doing the bearing and vano pressure line. Would you recommend doing anything else while I’m down there? Also what scanner do you use for reading and clearing codes?
I use INPA/GT1.

Well from the sound of it this one was well maintained. I personally did rod bearings, high pressure vanos line, oil cooler, new pan gasket, nice new fresh oil change and control arms and front bushings.
 

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Definitely doing the bearing and vano pressure line. Would you recommend doing anything else while I’m down there? Also what scanner do you use for reading and clearing codes?
In addition to what MafiaMalibuV said, I would also do the following which i did also:
1. Upgraded part for Oil squirters
2. BE Bearings - lower clearance - and ARP bolts
3. Shocks/struts (if leaking)
4. Any worn Engine/transmission Mounts
5. Spark plugs + air filtres (might as well at 100k)

Lucky you would save on labor, that's the way to go! Good luck!

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That is a certain way to get fuel diluted in oil. There's no reason to let the engine 'warm up'. Don't drive as an idiot when cold is all ANY car needs.
Wait, what? I let my car warm up for like 5 to 10 min before leaving, or at least 1/4 way temperature wise...I dont mean to open a can of worms here, but my understanding is that these engines need to be warm before they can be driver on...same way they would put a warm blanket on F1 cars? Am I missing something?

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Wait, what? I let my car warm up for like 5 to 10 min before leaving, or at least 1/4 way temperature wise...I dont mean to open a can of worms here, but my understanding is that these engines need to be warm before they can be driver on...same way they would put a warm blanket on F1 cars? Am I missing something?

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You are 100% correct. I completely ignored what he said.
 

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I think the correct process is drive the car sensibly until the engine gets up to temperature, then get on it. Do not let the car sit idle as a means to warm her up.


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I Googled and I think you will get different answers and opinions. I still feel a little easy warming up the engine for at least 2-5 min before driving just to get the oil and engine warmed up especially with all the rod bearing issues. Now my Acura and Honda not so much...just start and drive

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Wait, what? I let my car warm up for like 5 to 10 min before leaving, or at least 1/4 way temperature wise...I dont mean to open a can of worms here, but my understanding is that these engines need to be warm before they can be driver on...same way they would put a warm blanket on F1 cars? Am I missing something?
F1 engine? If you believe the marketing hype maybe.

I daily drive my car through winters here in IL down to 0F, using 10w60, and never ever let it idle for more than the 20 seconds or so it takes me to get out of the garage. Extended idling takes longer to warm up, running richer mixtures for longer, running on cold thicker oil for longer (if you think tws is the ultimate evil), etc.

I think the correct process is drive the car sensibly until the engine gets up to temperature, then get on it. Do not let the car sit idle as a means to warm her up.
This ^. Same as what I said before.
 

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BMW says don’t don’t delay drive away. It’s best to drive these cars off the bat. Just keep revs really low until fully warm. Common sense, but a lot of idiots have ruined these cars because they redline when cold.
 

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I let me car idle/sit until the cold start sequence stops. If I drive up my street right off the bat when cold it jerks and bucks going up the hill. Never does this if I wait until cold start is complete. I also have a Sprint booster so the pedal is a little more sensitive to imput.....but still never happens if I wait for cold start to complete an then go.
 
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dannymc95
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